B4.1 FT disapointment
02-25-2011, 11:53 AM
#61
AE Is Killer Of All......
I race mine for a living Bruh ..
as some make shelf queens mine does work on a weekly Basis..
as some make shelf queens mine does work on a weekly Basis..
02-25-2011, 11:55 AM
#62
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You asked ...
Bent top shaft happens when ever you crash on the tail end and the motor plate usually gets bent along with ..
Very common to see happen....
Tell me this , if nothing has been bent, when you built your kit new, was the spur gear out of round then ?
again , the spur gear's are not out round ,if they were it would on the list I made...
AeDriver
maybe your Ae is a toy , my B4 is race car ....
Bent top shaft happens when ever you crash on the tail end and the motor plate usually gets bent along with ..
Very common to see happen....
Tell me this , if nothing has been bent, when you built your kit new, was the spur gear out of round then ?
again , the spur gear's are not out round ,if they were it would on the list I made...AeDriver
maybe your Ae is a toy , my B4 is race car ....
02-25-2011, 12:07 PM
#63
I've gotten several out of round spurs in the kits as well...
The one that came with my T4.1 kit was so out of round it made me cringe listening to it go around the track....
Sounded like there was a bearing bad in the motor or something...
When you can't get an even set on the gear mesh all the way arond the spur on a new kit... There is something wrong with the spur.
I replaced it with another AE spur... and it's fine now. BUT THE ONE IN THE KIT WAS OUT OF ROUND.
The one that came with my T4.1 kit was so out of round it made me cringe listening to it go around the track....
Sounded like there was a bearing bad in the motor or something...
When you can't get an even set on the gear mesh all the way arond the spur on a new kit... There is something wrong with the spur.
I replaced it with another AE spur... and it's fine now. BUT THE ONE IN THE KIT WAS OUT OF ROUND.
02-25-2011, 12:26 PM
#64
Well with all things being new when I built the kit and the gear mesh goes from tight on one side of the spur to loose on the other side as you rotate it, change spur and spur only and this problem goes away. Mesh is as close as one can expect from molded parts all the way around. So YES, I'll say the spur I had was out of round.
explain that please...
try installing a Losi spur or any other and discover the same problem with your ride...
02-25-2011, 01:00 PM
#65
LOL OK ACE D-BaG. You prove my point for me with very intelligent responses. Twice now.
I don't have a B4 but I do have FTRc8bE, FTsc8be. FT sc10,FT rc18t2,FT tc5r. I can assure you the quality is good on all of them. I also have savage xl flux, hyper 10sc, bigblock slayer pro, ax10 comp crawler, xxxt... Sc10 4x4 on pre-order.
I don't have a B4 but I do have FTRc8bE, FTsc8be. FT sc10,FT rc18t2,FT tc5r. I can assure you the quality is good on all of them. I also have savage xl flux, hyper 10sc, bigblock slayer pro, ax10 comp crawler, xxxt... Sc10 4x4 on pre-order.
02-25-2011, 01:21 PM
#66
*
More balls slushing .... Who cares what you have if you don't have a B4 or a B4.1 you don't know .... I RACE MINE .......
02-25-2011, 02:28 PM
#67
he simply said the one he got in his kit was out of round, and explained why he thought that, and then further backed it up by explaining that all the problems went away once the spur was changed... you're one of those people that believe the world is only 3600 years old arent you?
Id venture to say my spur is out of round too, I can very clearly see it wobble. Perhaps its not seated correctly, though, really it should be considering it snugly fits onto the shaft.. I have yet to run it yet, so who knows mine may wiggle itself true.
02-25-2011, 02:35 PM
#68
LOL-Ok ACE! Good for you! Keep upping you post count with your worthless comments, your really don't add anything to any discussion. I bet you TQ and win thin the A main every Thursday and Saturday. Just stop bro no body cares. Hope you run your B4 as fast as your mouth.
02-25-2011, 02:45 PM
#69
Uhh never once did he say "every single AE spur is garbage because theyre ALL out of round"
he simply said the one he got in his kit was out of round, and explained why he thought that, and then further backed it up by explaining that all the problems went away once the spur was changed... you're one of those people that believe the world is only 3600 years old arent you?
Id venture to say my spur is out of round too, I can very clearly see it wobble. Perhaps its not seated correctly, though, really it should be considering it snugly fits onto the shaft.. I have yet to run it yet, so who knows mine may wiggle itself true.
he simply said the one he got in his kit was out of round, and explained why he thought that, and then further backed it up by explaining that all the problems went away once the spur was changed... you're one of those people that believe the world is only 3600 years old arent you?
Id venture to say my spur is out of round too, I can very clearly see it wobble. Perhaps its not seated correctly, though, really it should be considering it snugly fits onto the shaft.. I have yet to run it yet, so who knows mine may wiggle itself true.
As for the out of round spur. I know it isnt the motor plate, or the top shaft. I can put other gears on it and it is fine. My cars havent been in major wrecks either... Just something i simply noticed because i like to replace spurs after a while. They simply wear out as the weakest link in the system...
I have discussed this and will simply be trying the kimbroughs.
02-25-2011, 02:49 PM
#70
While I dont have a b4. I do have a rc8, and after being out of the hobby for quite some time, i have to say that I too am very disappointed in the tolerances with AE. You would have thought by now, that slop would have a been a thing of the past. I am sorry, manufactures do not design parts to have slop so that when dirt and dust gets inside that the part still moves.
In my opinion there is no excuse for this much slop in any hobby grade rc car at this point.
In my opinion there is no excuse for this much slop in any hobby grade rc car at this point.
02-25-2011, 02:51 PM
#71
My point was I'm very familiar with all of associated's cars ACE D-BAG 70 and have had no quality issues. But I do upgrade everything that needs it. I wish you raced in WA so I could earn your respect, lol. I'd go buy a B4.1 today just to shut you up. I have a feeling your not a very good racer just because your not concerned with things like slop and being able to set up a car accurately, don't be stupid bro your comments show your lack of intellect. Later D
02-25-2011, 02:55 PM
#72
Between my 1/8 and my 1/10, although different manufacturers, there is a ton more slop in the 1/8 scale.
Really though it doesnt seem to affect anything.
I made my first b4 to be as tight as i could get it. The car was way too twitchy and actually really hard to control, not very predictable.
There is a use for some slop/play!
Really though it doesnt seem to affect anything.
I made my first b4 to be as tight as i could get it. The car was way too twitchy and actually really hard to control, not very predictable.
There is a use for some slop/play!
02-25-2011, 03:06 PM
#73
Kyosho is better than associated is right now with fit and finish, but they are both equally competive in the same capable hands.
On the other hand what is the big deal about shimming the cars or replace the super cheap plastic every other race weekend. The arms cost half as much as kyosho and you have to replace them twice as often, it works out I think
02-26-2011, 08:06 AM
#74
havve you contacted associated, I am sure they would send you some new parts. you might need to have proof of purchase. I have had issues with all the kits I have bought, but it is better than it was 10 years ago. I remember when cars where built so tight you needed files, sand paper and a dremel just to get a kit together. I know these parts are built with lower quality than we would like, but there are always more expensive better quality options out there for people that can't handle the slop.
Kyosho is better than associated is right now with fit and finish, but they are both equally competive in the same capable hands.
On the other hand what is the big deal about shimming the cars or replace the super cheap plastic every other race weekend. The arms cost half as much as kyosho and you have to replace them twice as often, it works out I think
Kyosho is better than associated is right now with fit and finish, but they are both equally competive in the same capable hands.
On the other hand what is the big deal about shimming the cars or replace the super cheap plastic every other race weekend. The arms cost half as much as kyosho and you have to replace them twice as often, it works out I think
Kyosho has way better quality in every department besides price.
Shocks-we all know this story.
Gearbox-cant hear a kyosho the new ae sounds like a disposal.
Differentials-the new ae stuff is not ae stuff I dont know whats going on there but it's not good.
Plastic-the new ae plastic ballcups/arms everything only is good for one raceday. Kyosho seems to hold up for months.
Hubs-Kyosho does not include rear aluminum hubs but ae might as well as save us the headache because there aluminum hubs are part the reason the cars rear toe is all over the place. The bearings are just floating around in them.
Ultimately I think the ae car is a better handling car when new, with awesome factory support with detailed set up sheets that work. The Kyosho guys set up sheets are kind of vague/missing details.
Price to race a Kyosho w/o big bores $270.00 plus hexes and motorplate $320.00. With big bores $450.00
Price to race a RC10 $229.00
You can buy a b-fast diff kit and quite a bit of plastic for $90.00 BUT your gonna need it and you still have a noisy car with roll pins and a glued servo saver.
02-26-2011, 06:35 PM
#75
Kyosho has way better quality in every department besides price.
Shocks-we all know this story.
Gearbox-cant hear a kyosho the new ae sounds like a disposal.
Differentials-the new ae stuff is not ae stuff I dont know whats going on there but it's not good.
Plastic-the new ae plastic ballcups/arms everything only is good for one raceday. Kyosho seems to hold up for months.
Hubs-Kyosho does not include rear aluminum hubs but ae might as well as save us the headache because there aluminum hubs are part the reason the cars rear toe is all over the place. The bearings are just floating around in them.
Ultimately I think the ae car is a better handling car when new, with awesome factory support with detailed set up sheets that work. The Kyosho guys set up sheets are kind of vague/missing details.
Price to race a Kyosho w/o big bores $270.00 plus hexes and motorplate $320.00. With big bores $450.00
Price to race a RC10 $229.00
You can buy a b-fast diff kit and quite a bit of plastic for $90.00 BUT your gonna need it and you still have a noisy car with roll pins and a glued servo saver.
Shocks-we all know this story.
Gearbox-cant hear a kyosho the new ae sounds like a disposal.
Differentials-the new ae stuff is not ae stuff I dont know whats going on there but it's not good.
Plastic-the new ae plastic ballcups/arms everything only is good for one raceday. Kyosho seems to hold up for months.
Hubs-Kyosho does not include rear aluminum hubs but ae might as well as save us the headache because there aluminum hubs are part the reason the cars rear toe is all over the place. The bearings are just floating around in them.
Ultimately I think the ae car is a better handling car when new, with awesome factory support with detailed set up sheets that work. The Kyosho guys set up sheets are kind of vague/missing details.
Price to race a Kyosho w/o big bores $270.00 plus hexes and motorplate $320.00. With big bores $450.00
Price to race a RC10 $229.00
You can buy a b-fast diff kit and quite a bit of plastic for $90.00 BUT your gonna need it and you still have a noisy car with roll pins and a glued servo saver.
As far as hearing gear noise from an AE, i call out that spur gear again, maybe not just a few of us getting crap ones... Running a round gear, my stuff is as quiet as anything else on the track.
Im running hubs that came in my kits, the plastic ones in the sc10 seem fine. Ive noticed a little loosness in the aluminum .5s that came with the b4.1 but once bolted up, wheels and all, not much play other than from the hinge pins.
Im using RPM ball cups since day one on these, so no worries on those lol.