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Traxxas Slash 4x4 worthwhile mods!!

Traxxas Slash 4x4 worthwhile mods!!

Old 02-17-2011, 07:50 PM
  #16  
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My wife said, "Hope it keeps you warm at night!" I replied, "hmmm are we not happy with my hobby?"
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bowl806
I forgot, maybe some Big Bore shocks.
The ultimate vertion comes with big bore shocks. I do need to play with the shock weight. any thoughts.
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Old 02-17-2011, 08:35 PM
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60wt 2 hole pistons Rear, 55wt Ft.
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bowl806
Here's a list of mods I'm doing w/my 4x4, all STRC parts: steering knuckles, FT,Rear shock towers, bellcrank, LW Center Main driveshaft, Alum.Motor mount and Motor plate, ft hub, C-hubs, Proline M3 tires, Tekno M6 ft,rear driveshafts. I might go with RPM Ft,Rear A-arms. Total about 240.
Stay away from the STRC Aluminum motor mount and go with a King Headz Aluminum mount. The STRC one has holes in it that allow dirt into the Center Diff/Slipper Clutch area which will eventually lead to stripped spurs and blown bearings. I had this one and eventually switched it out to the King Heads one for this reason. As an added benefit, the King Headz one uses a larger bearing.

Also, stay away from the aluminum shock towers. First off, they bend when taking some good tumbles. Second, they also will lead to you breaking your diffs that they mount to. I've learned the hard way, there's certain areas that you don't want aluminum pieces unless your car was designed for it. Also stay away from Aluminum arms and go with the RPM ones.
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Old 02-18-2011, 05:03 AM
  #20  
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In a full season of playing and racing i have yet to see a suspension arm break..
the stock motor is the perfect balance of horsepower for the track you dont need more unless you are launching it 30 feet straight up (then u need the rpm arms).
Getting an extra bearing set is a good idea and again pack every bearing with grease for longer life
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Old 02-18-2011, 12:35 PM
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enclose the front of the driveline with a 1/2" brass tube thru the driveline hole in the chassis. It fills and seals the hole which lets in lots of dirt. Extend the tube back to where the clear driveline cover starts and you have a sealed driveline tunnel. In the front have it almost touch the drive hub, just enuf to clear. Use silicon or goop to hold the tube in place to the chassis. In the past I have done full length tubes, but it keeps you from being able to adjust the slipper. This new, shorter tube and stock cover works just right.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SC8E
Aluminum shock caps, the plastic ones can strip off.
Just be careful with these, don't tighten them too tight, it will cut the rim of the diaphragm and then it will leak.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Richbear2
thanks but I think I will wait to get a new motor esc setup till I can get over the cost of the car!! haha!! looks very fast though. got both fans and proline tires rpm a-arms front and back. working on the motor mount next. My wife just rolls her eyes now every time I come home with something new for the truck!!!
Better than blowing your hard earned $$ at the local tavern!!
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by bowl806
60wt 2 hole pistons Rear, 55wt Ft.
thanks will start there.
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Old 02-18-2011, 02:29 PM
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Cheap mod for your susp, take the telescoping shafts apart and sand the inner portion so they slide better. Preventing unnecessary binding in the susp.

Another great inexpensive mod.
http://casterracingusa.com/product.p...&cat=41&page=1
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Stay away from the STRC Aluminum motor mount and go with a King Headz Aluminum mount. The STRC one has holes in it that allow dirt into the Center Diff/Slipper Clutch area which will eventually lead to stripped spurs and blown bearings. I had this one and eventually switched it out to the King Heads one for this reason. As an added benefit, the King Headz one uses a larger bearing.

Also, stay away from the aluminum shock towers. First off, they bend when taking some good tumbles. Second, they also will lead to you breaking your diffs that they mount to. I've learned the hard way, there's certain areas that you don't want aluminum pieces unless your car was designed for it. Also stay away from Aluminum arms and go with the RPM ones.
OK Thanks for the tip! How do you (or anybody) feel about the Tekno ft/rear driveshafts,steering blocks,hub carriers?-all 6mm
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:20 PM
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[QUOTE=TheCore;8670831]


+10 on this!!!
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:58 PM
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Any thoughts on diff oil?? front back and center.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:33 PM
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according to Steve Slayden set up; Ft end diff wt. 10k to 15k Rear end: diff 5k to 7k, center diff: 50k to 100k
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Richbear2
Any thoughts on diff oil?? front back and center.
When I had mine I had f/c/r = 10/30/7 and it worked very well. Also had a center diff set up with 50w to do a quick swap if needed.
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