Traxxas Slash 4x4 worthwhile mods!!
#16
Tech Master
My wife said, "Hope it keeps you warm at night!" I replied, "hmmm are we not happy with my hobby?"
#17
#18
Tech Master
60wt 2 hole pistons Rear, 55wt Ft.
#19
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Here's a list of mods I'm doing w/my 4x4, all STRC parts: steering knuckles, FT,Rear shock towers, bellcrank, LW Center Main driveshaft, Alum.Motor mount and Motor plate, ft hub, C-hubs, Proline M3 tires, Tekno M6 ft,rear driveshafts. I might go with RPM Ft,Rear A-arms. Total about 240.
Also, stay away from the aluminum shock towers. First off, they bend when taking some good tumbles. Second, they also will lead to you breaking your diffs that they mount to. I've learned the hard way, there's certain areas that you don't want aluminum pieces unless your car was designed for it. Also stay away from Aluminum arms and go with the RPM ones.
#20
In a full season of playing and racing i have yet to see a suspension arm break..
the stock motor is the perfect balance of horsepower for the track you dont need more unless you are launching it 30 feet straight up (then u need the rpm arms).
Getting an extra bearing set is a good idea and again pack every bearing with grease for longer life
the stock motor is the perfect balance of horsepower for the track you dont need more unless you are launching it 30 feet straight up (then u need the rpm arms).
Getting an extra bearing set is a good idea and again pack every bearing with grease for longer life
#21
enclose the front of the driveline with a 1/2" brass tube thru the driveline hole in the chassis. It fills and seals the hole which lets in lots of dirt. Extend the tube back to where the clear driveline cover starts and you have a sealed driveline tunnel. In the front have it almost touch the drive hub, just enuf to clear. Use silicon or goop to hold the tube in place to the chassis. In the past I have done full length tubes, but it keeps you from being able to adjust the slipper. This new, shorter tube and stock cover works just right.
#22
#23
thanks but I think I will wait to get a new motor esc setup till I can get over the cost of the car!! haha!! looks very fast though. got both fans and proline tires rpm a-arms front and back. working on the motor mount next. My wife just rolls her eyes now every time I come home with something new for the truck!!!
#24
#25
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
Cheap mod for your susp, take the telescoping shafts apart and sand the inner portion so they slide better. Preventing unnecessary binding in the susp.
Another great inexpensive mod.
http://casterracingusa.com/product.p...&cat=41&page=1
Another great inexpensive mod.
http://casterracingusa.com/product.p...&cat=41&page=1
#26
Tech Master
Stay away from the STRC Aluminum motor mount and go with a King Headz Aluminum mount. The STRC one has holes in it that allow dirt into the Center Diff/Slipper Clutch area which will eventually lead to stripped spurs and blown bearings. I had this one and eventually switched it out to the King Heads one for this reason. As an added benefit, the King Headz one uses a larger bearing.
Also, stay away from the aluminum shock towers. First off, they bend when taking some good tumbles. Second, they also will lead to you breaking your diffs that they mount to. I've learned the hard way, there's certain areas that you don't want aluminum pieces unless your car was designed for it. Also stay away from Aluminum arms and go with the RPM ones.
Also, stay away from the aluminum shock towers. First off, they bend when taking some good tumbles. Second, they also will lead to you breaking your diffs that they mount to. I've learned the hard way, there's certain areas that you don't want aluminum pieces unless your car was designed for it. Also stay away from Aluminum arms and go with the RPM ones.
#28
Any thoughts on diff oil?? front back and center.
#29
Tech Master
according to Steve Slayden set up; Ft end diff wt. 10k to 15k Rear end: diff 5k to 7k, center diff: 50k to 100k
#30
Tech Apprentice