Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
I am very curious about them too. I wanted their 70c packs but they were all sold out and expecting them to show up this weekend. I decided to go with the 50c and give those a whirl. My Monster 2 ESC needs at least 50c or greater to get the full effect of the ESC/motor.
I also ordered one of their Power HD servos. I am being brave and giving it a shot. I saw a couple of reviews on them and they were up to par with construction and operation. The only thing that was brought up was that it didnt snap to center perfect (very close to perfect) but everything else was great. If i am driving, snapping to center is not going to be noticed going over any kind of terrain. I can dial that in a little bit with a radio.
My servo to test: http://www.valuehobby.com/radio-syst...hd-1501mg.html
I also ordered one of their Power HD servos. I am being brave and giving it a shot. I saw a couple of reviews on them and they were up to par with construction and operation. The only thing that was brought up was that it didnt snap to center perfect (very close to perfect) but everything else was great. If i am driving, snapping to center is not going to be noticed going over any kind of terrain. I can dial that in a little bit with a radio.
My servo to test: http://www.valuehobby.com/radio-syst...hd-1501mg.html
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I would think 50c 6000mah should be more than adaquate without taxing the battery or starving the ESC. That is 300A continuous! Well, assuming the c-rating is accurate... I was thinking about the 40c 6500mah to get a little extra run time. I am mostly a basher and don't run as hot a setup as you do.
In other news, I went ahead and bought that Savox 1258 for piece of mind. I will use that Power HD as a back up or use for another project in the future.
those g force packs are really good. they are close the same punch as my trakpower 70c 6800 for like a third of the cost.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)
What do you guys do to cut down on gear noise in the front diff. Then front ring and pinion are making a lot of gear noise. Not a skipping noise or anything but just I can hear the teeth, just a general metal noise.
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks,
Dan
One thing i did that seemed to cut the noise down was using the Front center Tekno drive shaft and having the gear mesh good . And using a Fresh hole on the Rear coupler also less play .
I am very curious about them too. I wanted their 70c packs but they were all sold out and expecting them to show up this weekend. I decided to go with the 50c and give those a whirl. My Monster 2 ESC needs at least 50c or greater to get the full effect of the ESC/motor.
I also ordered one of their Power HD servos. I am being brave and giving it a shot. I saw a couple of reviews on them and they were up to par with construction and operation. The only thing that was brought up was that it didnt snap to center perfect (very close to perfect) but everything else was great. If i am driving, snapping to center is not going to be noticed going over any kind of terrain. I can dial that in a little bit with a radio.
My servo to test: http://www.valuehobby.com/radio-syst...hd-1501mg.html
I also ordered one of their Power HD servos. I am being brave and giving it a shot. I saw a couple of reviews on them and they were up to par with construction and operation. The only thing that was brought up was that it didnt snap to center perfect (very close to perfect) but everything else was great. If i am driving, snapping to center is not going to be noticed going over any kind of terrain. I can dial that in a little bit with a radio.
My servo to test: http://www.valuehobby.com/radio-syst...hd-1501mg.html
You will like them lipos i use them on my 4600kv i can clear a triple with them without going full throttle if i time it right.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Awesome, cant wait to try them! I want 3 batteries to use at the track. I am not sure how long it takes to charge the bigger ones but I definitely need to buy a charger that can charge 2 batteries at once.
I have 1 battery for mine lol I need more and a great charger I use is the hitec x4 can charge 4 batteries at 6 amps! when you start running more classes it will be the best!
I am going to assume the C rating is accurate. I havent read any hardcore complaints about the Gforce batteries. I am looking more for extra run time. I am not sure how long i can run my SCTE on a 5500 battery because I havent tried to max it out yet.
In other news, I went ahead and bought that Savox 1258 for piece of mind. I will use that Power HD as a back up or use for another project in the future.
In other news, I went ahead and bought that Savox 1258 for piece of mind. I will use that Power HD as a back up or use for another project in the future.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWNgJte2RhI
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Blasphamy I know. the guy from that "other" forum ... but it is a pretty informative review and was of value to me so I wanted to share with you..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWNgJte2RhI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWNgJte2RhI
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
I am thinking about taking on the task of changing the diff oil out to the synthetic stuff this weekend. I watched a bunch of Youtube videos to get an understanding how it is done and how to fill it up and the potential issues that may come up during removal/installation (like stripping out screws, leaking diffs, etc)
Maybe it is just me but it seems like a very detailed task to remove the diffs out to work on them. What parts do you guys recommend I buy just in case something goes wrong with the fluid swap? You guys using Team Associated diff oil or is there another brand I should consider using?
Maybe it is just me but it seems like a very detailed task to remove the diffs out to work on them. What parts do you guys recommend I buy just in case something goes wrong with the fluid swap? You guys using Team Associated diff oil or is there another brand I should consider using?
I am thinking about taking on the task of changing the diff oil out to the synthetic stuff this weekend. I watched a bunch of Youtube videos to get an understanding how it is done and how to fill it up and the potential issues that may come up during removal/installation (like stripping out screws, leaking diffs, etc)
Maybe it is just me but it seems like a very detailed task to remove the diffs out to work on them. What parts do you guys recommend I buy just in case something goes wrong with the fluid swap? You guys using Team Associated diff oil or is there another brand I should consider using?
Maybe it is just me but it seems like a very detailed task to remove the diffs out to work on them. What parts do you guys recommend I buy just in case something goes wrong with the fluid swap? You guys using Team Associated diff oil or is there another brand I should consider using?
JETBLASTtwo yrs ago I did mine and I thought it was hard tell I took it apart. if you lay it out and be careful . I wash it with dawn dish washing liquid. some use spray cleaner.. lay it out on a paper towel put it together with grease on the shaft, oil the bearings make sure you check for shims and replace in same place as they come out. after you do it once you will love doing it again. remember not to over fill as when things heat up they expand. replace the screws by hand unless your good with a small drill check your bearings. if there is a notching feeling replace them .. at a buck a peace it wont kill the bank account. a DNF for a bearing can ruin a day of play or racing.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
I am thinking about taking on the task of changing the diff oil out to the synthetic stuff this weekend. I watched a bunch of Youtube videos to get an understanding how it is done and how to fill it up and the potential issues that may come up during removal/installation (like stripping out screws, leaking diffs, etc)
Maybe it is just me but it seems like a very detailed task to remove the diffs out to work on them. What parts do you guys recommend I buy just in case something goes wrong with the fluid swap? You guys using Team Associated diff oil or is there another brand I should consider using?
Maybe it is just me but it seems like a very detailed task to remove the diffs out to work on them. What parts do you guys recommend I buy just in case something goes wrong with the fluid swap? You guys using Team Associated diff oil or is there another brand I should consider using?