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Jammin CRT.5 Brushless

Jammin CRT.5 Brushless

Old 01-18-2011, 11:30 AM
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Yeah the stock body doesn't want to fit the ext-chassis very well. I did mine like sloracer did initially. Then the truck kinda made it fit the way it wanted to, by breaking the holes open on its own, crashing helped this.

The rear factory hole has to be used. The front holes have to be moved forward. The shock tower in the rear has to be in the stock location because of the indents in the body, otherwise when you crash it will force the body down on the shock tower and break your non=stock hole.

Kinda hard to explain,, use the stock dimple in the rear and make new holes in the front. Also there's no need to trim the rear fender well for the pipe exit, another mistake I made. Good thing the bodys sell for 13$ or so on ebay.
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Old 01-18-2011, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
Yeah the stock body doesn't want to fit the ext-chassis very well. I did mine like sloracer did initially. Then the truck kinda made it fit the way it wanted to, by breaking the holes open on its own, crashing helped this.

The rear factory hole has to be used. The front holes have to be moved forward. The shock tower in the rear has to be in the stock location because of the indents in the body, otherwise when you crash it will force the body down on the shock tower and break your non=stock hole.

Kinda hard to explain,, use the stock dimple in the rear and make new holes in the front. Also there's no need to trim the rear fender well for the pipe exit, another mistake I made. Good thing the bodys sell for 13$ or so on ebay.
I had to trim mine on the front for a-arm clearance at full compression also. Not happy with the fit at all. Have a Jconcepts body on the shelf, hopefully it fits a bit better. I was pleased to see it wasn't molded to clear an exhaust pipe.

Steve
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:49 PM
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Yeah the rear body mount seems to need to be higher but with the front mounts just wondering did you guys use the new mounts that come with the extended chassis and mount them on the back of the tower not the front like the stockers.They line up perfect with the dimples when the new ones are mounted facing backwards .

Jammin CRT.5 Brushless-dsc00259.jpg
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by baneonrt
I had to trim mine on the front for a-arm clearance at full compression also. Not happy with the fit at all. Have a Jconcepts body on the shelf, hopefully it fits a bit better. I was pleased to see it wasn't molded to clear an exhaust pipe.

Steve
I also had to do some front end trimming, the body is surely not made for the longer chassis, but it's close enough, I guess.

Which Jconcepts body do you have?

Coming from the SCRT10 which uses $40 bodies, I don't really mind paying the $13 or so the stock crt body sells for on ebay.

Proline has a bug body for 1/10 scale crawlers. The dimesions look to be right on w/ the longer pro chassis. The body posts will be a challenge though. I do like bugs though.
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ace955
Yeah the rear body mount seems to need to be higher but with the front mounts just wondering did you guys use the new mounts that come with the extended chassis and mount them on the back of the tower not the front like the stockers.They line up perfect with the dimples when the new ones are mounted facing backwards .

Attachment 695336
Is there a difference in the actual body mount piece? Yes, there is I have another kit here and 2 that come w/ the pro chassis are like aces, taller and angled.

I didn't notice a difference in the actual size of any of the mounts. I probably over looked that. I did

I did mount mine in the front initially, I then flipped them around. With them facing the back it seemed like the body had to pushed down quite a bit it get the pins in. Because I was using the smaller/wrong pins

I'm now running them in the front and using them as spacers so I can run by slash big bore front shocks.
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
Is there a difference in the actual body mount piece?

I didn't notice a difference in the actual size of any of the mounts. I probably over looked that.

I did mount mine in the front initially, I then flipped them around. With them facing the back it seemed like the body had to pushed down quite a bit it get the pins in.

I'm now running them in the front and using them as spacers so I can run by slash big bore front shocks.
Yeah Vegatron if you still have them they are a different shape to the stockers here is a pic extended chassis mounts on the left

Jammin CRT.5 Brushless-dsc00260.jpg
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:09 PM
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So to get the stock body to fit and look it's best you have to....

1. Use the 2 front body mounts, that come w/ pro kit, on the backside of the front shock tower.

2. Use the rear dimple in the body for the rear post. According to Ace the fronts will line up as well, w/ the above posts.

3. Ignore the bump on the front fenders, it's too far back, mount body and find new forward location where upper a-arm hits the body on full compression.

4. Ignore rear wheelwell nitro pipe cut-out

ANything else?
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:24 PM
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what i did was use the new front mounts and i used a hb D8 bodymount in the rear to get a little more height (still not enough to clear the rear towers well) .I then trimmed the clear body where i wanted without following any trim lines. Its not perfect but it works
Jammin CRT.5 Brushless-dsc00261.jpg
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:30 PM
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Looks good man. I'm thinking about something like this. I'm hoping to get to the track tomorrow. The weather is looking to get bad around KC.

I've had the crt on the track during practice, but haven't raced it yet. I'm hoping he'll put me with the 13.5 4x4 buggy class. I should be outclassed machine wise, but I think I can take a couple of them w/ decent driving.

I think this is the proline bug 1/10 body. Not sure though.
Attached Thumbnails Jammin CRT.5 Brushless-img_0362-1.jpg  
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Old 01-18-2011, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Vegatron75
Looks good man. I'm thinking about something like this. I'm hoping to get to the track tomorrow. The weather is looking to get bad around KC.

I've had the crt on the track during practice, but haven't raced it yet. I'm hoping he'll put me with the 13.5 4x4 buggy class. I should be outclassed machine wise, but I think I can take a couple of them w/ decent driving.

I think this is the proline bug 1/10 body. Not sure though.
should raise some eyebrows at the track especially if you start winning
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Old 01-18-2011, 03:58 PM
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i ordered mine today, was thinking of what esc motor combo to use. Any suggestions?

Anyone know if the Jconcepts illuzion body works any better with the longer chassis?
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Old 01-18-2011, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePupppet
i ordered mine today, was thinking of what esc motor combo to use. Any suggestions?

Anyone know if the Jconcepts illuzion body works any better with the longer chassis?
I'm running the castle sc 3800kv system on 2s.

I've heard the jconcepts body is the way to go. The stock body isn't that bad either...
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Old 01-18-2011, 06:09 PM
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doesn't seem like there is a better deal then th castle system ... adding that to my order. Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ThePupppet
doesn't seem like there is a better deal then th castle system ... adding that to my order. Thanks!
there really isnt haha. the Castle SCT system is the $h1t. ESPECIALLY considering the price. I have one in my Hyper 10TT and one in my CRT.5 and they are both GREAT.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:04 PM
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Stupid new body mounts that I overlooked. There's just so many bags of extra parts, that I haven't even opened most of them. I figured to start off from the 2 front dimples on the body, of course that's the opposite way. I too didn't realize the cutout for the pipe until it was already done. Looks like I need to pick up an Illuzion body too.

On the Castle SCT, I've been playing with some settings and it is getting a little better. I set the dead band to 'small', and punch control on 'lowest' so far. It is deff an improvement in smoothness, but still a bit jumpy. I may bump each setting one notch further to see how it does. Any one mess with the timing? Any less jerky? Also, how did you guys shorten your motor wires? Do you take the esc apart and unsolder the old ones, cut the bullet connectors off the motors wires, and solder them to the esc?
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