HB Hara D8 conversion
01-03-2011, 03:07 PM
#62
01-03-2011, 04:09 PM
#63
Quick update:
Many D8 owners have mentioned the driveshafts, more specifically the amount of engagement in the drive cups. Below is a picture of my buggy, keep in mind my camber is not finalized yet but you can see how close to the edge of the outdrive the dog bone sits. That is why the optional WCE driveshafts are a little longer. I don't think it is a major issue, with many owners reporting that the stock driveshafts work fine. The rear driveshafts have plenty of engagement, only the front ones come close. I will keep an eye on this once I get some track time.
Many D8 owners have mentioned the driveshafts, more specifically the amount of engagement in the drive cups. Below is a picture of my buggy, keep in mind my camber is not finalized yet but you can see how close to the edge of the outdrive the dog bone sits. That is why the optional WCE driveshafts are a little longer. I don't think it is a major issue, with many owners reporting that the stock driveshafts work fine. The rear driveshafts have plenty of engagement, only the front ones come close. I will keep an eye on this once I get some track time.
ben
01-03-2011, 04:23 PM
#64
Armourbl, thanks for the heads up. Your right, in the picture I am running almost max droop so the bones are pretty far out (near the edge of the drive cup). I have not done any suspension setup/fine tuning because I have some WCE driveshafts on the way and I want to wait until I get them installed before I do any suspension tuning. I plan on running the stock droop, camber, etc. Then I'll start fine tuning once I get the buggy broken in and get some track time.
01-04-2011, 01:59 AM
#65
I was setting the EPA for the steering and noticed that at full lock there is a bind in the front diff/wheels. The wheels turn fine until the last few milimeters right before full lock. I am not sure what it is, I tried this with the a-arms level so I don't think it is in the outdrives. I think the cvd is binding. Anyone run into this problem?
01-04-2011, 02:09 PM
#66
On 1 of my d8's the steering rack will hit the input cup just a little.
01-04-2011, 04:23 PM
#68
Ok so it was driving me nuts so I went and took another look at my front end to see if I could find out why it was binding at full lock. Kind of a long read, but very interesting. I checked the steering/Ackermann parts and everything was clearing and nothing was rubbing. Then I took a look at the front spindle and I found the issue. I am running Tekno axles and the optional HB aluminum carriers. This combination seems to cause the issue. The Tekno axle is about 1mm wider than stock. And for some reason the aluminum carriers moves the lower hinge pin closer to the axle, so with this combination, at full lock the inside of the axle rubs against the hinge pin that passes thru the carrier, weird huh. I reinstalled the stock plastic carriers and the axle barely cleared the hinge pin so it is an issue with the aluminum carriers and Tekno axle. I don't know if my carriers are out of spec or they are all made this way. I have three options, run the stock plastic carriers with the Tekno axles, run the aluminum carriers with the stock axles or turn down the middle of the lower hinge pin (non-load bearing part) to add clearance for the Tekno axle.
Optional front HB aluminum carrier.
It hits here at full lock.
Plastic carriers clears the Tekno axle ok, but it is a tight fit.
Tekno axle slightly larger in diameter than the stock part.
Optional front HB aluminum carrier.
It hits here at full lock.
Plastic carriers clears the Tekno axle ok, but it is a tight fit.
Tekno axle slightly larger in diameter than the stock part.
Last edited by Shark413; 01-05-2011 at 08:30 PM.
01-04-2011, 06:27 PM
#69
Interesting build thread. I recently converted my D8 using a Tekno nitro chassis and Losi battery tray. Coincidentally, it weighs 8lbs. 6oz. I've been very happy with the way my car turned out, I'd like to hear how yours works for you when it hits the track.
I think I saw that you had ordered the WCE shafts for the front. You have to be real careful if you run the stock front half shafts to avoid popouts. If you run the WCEs you shouldn't have a problem. Good luck.
I think I saw that you had ordered the WCE shafts for the front. You have to be real careful if you run the stock front half shafts to avoid popouts. If you run the WCEs you shouldn't have a problem. Good luck.
01-05-2011, 11:55 AM
#70
Interesting build thread. I recently converted my D8 using a Tekno nitro chassis and Losi battery tray. Coincidentally, it weighs 8lbs. 6oz. I've been very happy with the way my car turned out, I'd like to hear how yours works for you when it hits the track.
I think I saw that you had ordered the WCE shafts for the front. You have to be real careful if you run the stock front half shafts to avoid popouts. If you run the WCEs you shouldn't have a problem. Good luck.
I think I saw that you had ordered the WCE shafts for the front. You have to be real careful if you run the stock front half shafts to avoid popouts. If you run the WCEs you shouldn't have a problem. Good luck.
01-05-2011, 12:10 PM
#71
There is a thread over in the nitro section related to the Hara D8 and one of the HB team members mentioned the tight fit of the axle and aluminum carrier did not allow the use of a rubber dust boot. He mentioned that the carrier can be modified to allow more clearence for running rubber boots on the cvd using the stock axle. I may try this mod because even with the stock axle the clearence is really tight not only for fitting a rubber dust boot, but also for preventing small stones from jamming the axle.
HB Team driver (Jesse Robbers) posted this picture of a modified aluminum carrier over in the nitro section.
HB Team driver (Jesse Robbers) posted this picture of a modified aluminum carrier over in the nitro section.
Last edited by Shark413; 01-05-2011 at 08:28 PM.
01-05-2011, 08:52 PM
#72
I decided to start painting the body while I was waiting for the WCE driveshafts. First, I am not very good at painting, I just wanted to get a quick spray job on so it will have time to dry (cured) for this weekend. Decided to do a really simple two color paint job (Faskolor). I drew some patterns on the outside, then masked off the inside and cut out the patterns. I sprayed the dark colors first, let dry, then sprayed the next color.
Pattern on outside of the shell, masking and applied the first color.
Mask off, adding some red highlights
Adding the second main color.
Pattern on outside of the shell, masking and applied the first color.
Mask off, adding some red highlights
Adding the second main color.
