12v regulator
12-24-2010, 07:19 AM
#1
12v regulator
Hey Guys !I am trying to find a way how to regulate my powersuply 13.8 votage to 12 v .I just bought my power s (with no adjustable regulator)a few month ago so i do not want to spend again 80-90$ to buy a new one.The engine heater only take no more than 12v and drow 4amps .I wondering if i can find or make a regulator .The only regulator what i found is this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062600 .This is only handle 1amp so its to weak.My question is : can i just solder like 4-5 together? ,if yes how?Or do you guys know any cheap but safe way to work out the problem?Thank you !Merry christmas!
12-24-2010, 07:30 AM
#2
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Double check with the manufacturer of your engine heater. I don't see how the extra 1.8 volt difference would be a problem.
12-24-2010, 07:31 AM
#3
Hey Guys !I am trying to find a way how to regulate my powersuply 13.8 votage to 12 v .I just bought my power s (with no adjustable regulator)a few month ago so i do not want to spend again 80-90$ to buy a new one.The engine heater only take no more than 12v and drow 4amps .I wondering if i can find or make a regulator .The only regulator what i found is this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062600 .This is only handle 1amp so its to weak.My question is : can i just solder like 4-5 together? ,if yes how?Or do you guys know any cheap but safe way to work out the problem?Thank you !Merry christmas!
That's a resistive element usually. Being off by 1.8 volts isn't going to matter. Some digital electronics can be sensitive to voltage inaccuracies, everything has it's limits. But every 12v circuit I've ever seen should handle 13.8 with no problems.
12v systems usually means 12.7-14.3 in real autos.
12-24-2010, 08:47 AM
#4
Engine heater?
That's a resistive element usually. Being off by 1.8 volts isn't going to matter. Some digital electronics can be sensitive to voltage inaccuracies, everything has it's limits. But every 12v circuit I've ever seen should handle 13.8 with no problems.
12v systems usually means 12.7-14.3 in real autos.
That's a resistive element usually. Being off by 1.8 volts isn't going to matter. Some digital electronics can be sensitive to voltage inaccuracies, everything has it's limits. But every 12v circuit I've ever seen should handle 13.8 with no problems.
12v systems usually means 12.7-14.3 in real autos.
12-24-2010, 10:00 AM
#5
Gabe,
Check out the attached PDF. This DC-DC Converter is what you need to ensure that the 12V Comp Heat heater is getting an acurrate 12V. The heater needs 48W total (12V x 4A), but I'd almost recommend the 100W version, since figuring in an 80% efficiency factor puts the 50W version, right at the limit.
The part #'s for the one you'd need are:
GH50S1212C - 50W version
GH100S1212C - 100W version
They're sold through Powerstax PLC, which is a European company, but they list a NC Rep through their North American Distributors list...I haven't called about pricing yet, so I don't know the cost of the converter. Give them a call after Christmas and let me know what you find out.
QREP Inc.
4212 Inlet Road
Marietta
Georgia 30066
Tel: 770-573-2099
Fax: 770-755-1878
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.qrepinc.com
Check out the attached PDF. This DC-DC Converter is what you need to ensure that the 12V Comp Heat heater is getting an acurrate 12V. The heater needs 48W total (12V x 4A), but I'd almost recommend the 100W version, since figuring in an 80% efficiency factor puts the 50W version, right at the limit.
The part #'s for the one you'd need are:
GH50S1212C - 50W version
GH100S1212C - 100W version
They're sold through Powerstax PLC, which is a European company, but they list a NC Rep through their North American Distributors list...I haven't called about pricing yet, so I don't know the cost of the converter. Give them a call after Christmas and let me know what you find out.
QREP Inc.
4212 Inlet Road
Marietta
Georgia 30066
Tel: 770-573-2099
Fax: 770-755-1878
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.qrepinc.com
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