newuserlosi8t

iTrader: (65)

what is the proper way to use the bleeder caps on the sc10 shocks

AlGio

iTrader: (1)

Go to the associated web site and download the ft sc10 manual. That has the best explanation on how to properly set the new shocks.

newuserlosi8t

iTrader: (65)

thanks i found how to but no matter what i do i cant seem to get them super smooth i dnt c why i can build my 8 scale shocks flawless

Zerodefect

Replace and grease the orings. Keep in mind that the new AE shocks are still "air immersion" type shocks. They're just easier to get built right consistantly.

They'll allways have that air sound to them, unlike sealed bladder 1/8th scale shocks.

newuserlosi8t

iTrader: (65)

o that why i am trying to get rid of that air sound went thru 3 bottles of fluid and i polished my shafts and used shock building slime and new rebuild kit

outlandr91

Should the shocks have any rebound?

BuggyKing

iTrader: (17)

I think the shock should have about an 1/8th of an inch of rebound.

outlandr91

Oops, mine seem to have negative pressure. The shafts recede into the shock body, what am I doing wrong?

mfcoupe32

take off bleader screw and push shaft up again, hold shaft tight against the top and put bleeder screw back in. should work better.

newuserlosi8t

iTrader: (65)

same with me man when u pull the shaft all the way out it goes back in 1/8 of inch and i had mine fully compressed to the max when i screwed the bleeder screw in

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

With the bleeder screw out I cycle the shaft up and down twice, just did it one day on a rebuild and it works for me, pulling air in on the down stroke doesn't hurt because it just pushes back out when you push the piston back up and put the bleeder screw in. Mine suck in about the same 1/8 inch and rebound about the same. I don't think an 1/8 inch is an issue and they work fine this way.
If the piston sucks back in more than the 1/8 inch you have too much oil in the shock. I get very little if any oil out the hole on the second compression but it works for ME. You would think it would be as simple as the manual says but there is and always has been a little "black majic" in getting shocks just the way you want them, all part of the game.

opio

iTrader: (5)

I don't understand why you would do this. What is the point of bleeding your shocks if your going to suck the air back in? You will NOT get all the air out of the cap if you cycle your shaft as you say. I understand that it works for ya, just not sure how

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

I can't say how either but I had the very same "suction" issue untill I tried this, and you don't want ALL the air out anyway. They are still an emulsion shock, air/oil mix. Agian it just what works for me, if somebody tries it and it works great if not that's fine too.

newuserlosi8t

iTrader: (65)

if its an air/oil shock why would they tell u to get all the air out of the fluid before screwing on cap and bleeding i understand in a 8 scale the bladder and it bieng a sealed shock so all the air needs to be out but why on a air/oil mix shock

outlandr91

I'm bleeding the shocks as per the manual. I'm thinking when I push the shaft all the way into the shock body the piston is protruding thru the oil.