immarcescibile

Hi guys I'm going to use a 4274 1965Kv EZRun engine with 150A esc in my new MBX6 in addition probably with 4s lipos @ high C (45/50) rates and 4000/5000Mah

For the moment I'll have the RC-monster conversion but I'm also waiting for the Tekno V4 one...
I need to know, knowing that I'm going to use a RCM engine support or an elitercd support, which kind of pinion should I buy to mesh with the original 46T spur...will this one be good?: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...=5mmmod1pinion or any other such as Tekno long shank ones??

Finally which pinions teeth should I buy to make some gearing tests according to the above engine/lipos setup??

Thanks in advance, bye.

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

i run the monster conversion and use the tekin rx8/2050 combo and hyperion 4 cell 5000 batteries (25c) with a 15 tooth pinion indoors.

immarcescibile

Long shank or not??

jasonwipf

I have run the Techno, RCM and EliteRD conversions on my MBX6 and here are my observations:

Techno-Long shanks sux, they put undo stress on the rotor shaft and have alot of gear mess issues when the chassis flexes do to that long shaft contorting the gear mess.

RCM- good mount but has some motor flex

EliteRCD-EXCELLENT motor mount that slides the motor back and forth easy for quick motor or pinion changes, easy gear mesh alignment, little to no flex and the slider has an additional bearing in it to help absorb alot of the strain on the front of your rotor and vibrations making your bearings last longer and acts as a dirt shield to boot.

then I just use an Ofna hyper 9 or Losi 8E battery tray and i'm done. Both of those trays hold all types of batteries (not just the short ones) and are much stronger than the RCM mount which can strip screw holes or crack easier.

rfleck

iTrader: (58)

Yes, you will need mod 1 pinions.

immarcescibile

Thanks guys,
actually I've bought RC-Monster conversion kit + Elitercd mount + mod1 15Tand18T RCM pinions.

@jasonwipf: how have you fixed the Ofna hyper 9 or Losi 8Ebattery tray to the chassis?? Using the original holes or what?
I'm interested in changing the battery tray with a longer one than the RCM. Please let me understand in a detailed way :-)

jasonwipf

I had to drill holes for both yes. But you are right both those trays allow for longer/wider FLATER lower CG packs than the RCM tray and are Stronger than the RCM tray. What motor are you using on your 6? 14,15 & 16T should be sufficient, 18 is a bit fast. Also, how long are your races? I recently found a nice combo: losi tray with hobbyking's 3300 35c or 4000 25c battery fit like a glove in the losi tray and are VERY light and flat. Perfect for 10min races or less. It takes longer than I have patience to post pics so if you want pics of both my set ups PM me your cell # and i'll send you some quick pics from my phone. :-)

THE STIG!!!

immarcescibile

Jason I thank you at all for the replies you posted here.It helped me a lot.

For the photos..mate...I'm in Italy! I don't think you'd like to send me some MMS eheehhe

Just take your time to take some pictures please I would really appreciate it!

Thanks in advance.

PS: I'll run two or three different motors for my tests:

- Losi 1700Kv
- Black 4274 1965Kv EZRun
- Mamba, between those of todays black Friday Castle offer: (http://www.castlecreations.com/promo...clearance.html) - any suggestions for which of the Castle engines ones on the offer will be good to me? I need acceleration + very good speed..

Moreover my races are longer than 10 minutes surely...your lipos are 4s, aren't they??

Thanks another time!

jasonwipf

If they still have the 1800kv motor get it now! should still be $60 for that price get a truggy and buggy motor while your at it. A Castle tech told us the other day they intend to DISCONTINUE their 1800 motors and that is why they are so cheap and focus on 2200 and 2650s combos, the 1800 motors are great (like tekin better), but for $60 wow you cant go wrong. I believe this is purely a business decision as the 1800 series runs brilliantly and has no major known defects. They sell Many Many more 2200s in their traxxas and HPI E truck combos and i think its a production focusing thing they are doing to maintain their bread and butter cash cow sales of those motors.

Yes and 4s on those KV 1800-1900 are perfect for racing. They will give you that acceleration and speed you say you are looking for. As long as you do your do your diff spacers right/gear mesh on the diffs you will NOT brake them so have no fear mugen parts are tough. I gotta ebay some stuff between stuffing my face for thanks giving today so i'll pull out the camera and take some pics for ya man. Anyone that puts the Stig as their avatar and has a mugen is worth it. :P

immarcescibile

Jason I think you rock!!! I love Top Gear + Mugen

Thanks for suggestions!

Ive just purchased one 1800Kv!!

jasonwipf

Ok, the turkey is in the oven and I gotta wait a few more hours to pig out. Here are some pics of 2 of MBX6Es. Both use a Losi 8E body for maximum air flow and ability to fit electronics on top and sides. You need to use the front body mount from an MBX5 (amain hobbies or mugen direct) mounted to your rear shock tower to lower the body for a more stream line fit.




First one is my Castle 1800 System with a hyper 9 battery tray
Pros: The H9 tray is very robust and with tall walls it acts like its own hard case no matter what battery you put in. It is very long (178mm inner capacity) decently wide (47-48mm wide) and holds almost any pack. Top mounted ESC gets max air flow thru the front window to keep temps down and increase efficiency.
Cons: The top mounted esc makes getting to center diff a tad harder and increases our center of gravity.


Battery shown in this pic is a Rhino 4900 4s 25c

jasonwipf

Second one is my newer 1900kv Tekin set up with Losi Tray.
Pros:Cleaner lower CG layout. Losi tray is 167mm long inner capacity and tad wider at 53mm wide inner cap and will fit more batteries than the hyper tray and has the ability to put a nut on the otherside of some of the mounting screws as well as a channel underneath to direct and protect the control wire from ESC to the REC.
Cons: Tight fit, ESC gets pushed to the back and not all bodies will like that. The losi body was made for this so its not an issue with me and fits fine. Less air flow over ESC which can be bad if you are not using a losi body, a good ESC or running high C rated batteries (most good ESC are honestly fine)
Receiver tray is Associated btw: http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/89504/ and yes you have to do some creative dremeling to get that to fit. You could wait and get the Mugen one that is scheduled to come out in the new Ebuggy in December but I couldn't wait.


This pic shows the Turnigy nano tech 4000 25/50c battery.




The center set of battery straps were dremeled off to make clearance for the center spur (2-3mm). I have used a 2 strap with this tray on my truggy with HUGE packs as large as 7400 before and it has held fine as long as you use the thickest width strap you can get in there and not cheapo quality or thin ones. I used a total of 4 screws to mount it. one 4mm with bolt on front, 3mm in center, and 2 more 4mm in back one of which with another bolt. My truggy uses same set up as this car except I use the castle Truggy 1800 motor and MM ESC in that car.

Now, on the bottom of the chassis there are 2 ways guys tend to mount this. One: by using the front hole (previously the exhaust pipe mount) and drill 2 holes in back like I did. This has the weight as far forward as possible for a tad more steering. or Two: using the 2nd set of mounting holes under the mount you can use the standard gas engine mounting holes in the chassis but you will instead drill a hole about 6mm back from the front hole. This is less drilling but the whole tray is further back. Both work but I liked it up front so the ESC isnt so close to the rear arm, blocking the body in back and weight up front for steering.

jasonwipf

Lastly, batteries. I have used everything from the cheapest to the most expensive $200+ batteries on the market and while there are some performance differences I have also busted, puffed and messed up expensive ones just as easy as cheap ones (when I was learning my lipo cut off lessons and charging rates as a newbie) Today, I get as gooda performance from cheap Turnigy and Rhino Packs as I do the expensive brands and if I were to mess one up it doesnt hurt as bad to toss a $40-50 pack in the rubbish as it does a $200 one. The two I use now are:

Rhino 4s 25c 4900mah 2c charge rate pack & Turnigy Nanotech 4s 25/50c 4000mah 5c charge rate pack

Most of the time I will use the 4900 for my truggy and the 4000 for my Buggy. In my buggy the 4900 will get 15-20minutes and the 4000 will get 10-15 minutes depending on the track and the friskiness of my throttle finger. I use 25C rated batteries not only because they are lighter but run cooler and get better milage. You can use those 45c or higher ones with tones of pep and speed but think of it as a bigger diameter fuel line, you will now need to get bigger mah capacity pack to get the same run time. These motors at 4s are mega strong and torquey so if you want more speed go up a tooth on your pinion and keep the C rating to the required minimum 25-35c constant.

Most batteries you can feel the 3.8v to 3.0 power drop in the last 25% of hte pack and all of a sudden you are not making that triple anymore and when you come short you are not only slower, you miss jumps and crash and psycologically you freak out that you are about to die so you run slower on purpose as well. With the New nanotech packs they keep thier power up till about the last 10% of the pack and this keeps you running stronger longer and are actually lighter than similarly rated packs and have a higher charge rate. Also note in this next pic how much thinner the 4000mah nanotech is at 26mm (bottom battery) compared to the long and already flat 4900mah Rhino at 33mm (top battery). Many guys who get the short standard 138mm long packs have hugely tall heights of 40-50+mm. Thats alot of weight 100-200grams sitting at a much higher center of gravity.


You will also note I put a covering over my packs. Since I do not run hardcase packs that are hard to find in the sizes I like. I take two precautions to not pierce the thin silver lipo skins that can cause a lipo fire. 1st is the shown large shrink tubing Turnigy sells for about $3 a meter, this stuff is thick and really protects it well from stones that get in your tray and general skuffing. 2nd I use some self adhesive foam lining you can get from some craft stores (.85 cents sq ft where I live). Cut it to suit and it acts as additional padding and spacing for your battery.


I may not be the fastest 1/8th E racer in my state but i beat many by having gear that rarely fails and running a tough consistent car like my Mugen. That combo usually gets me a podium finish in most races. Hope that helped.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

I see you're running both a Tekin sensored setup and a Castle sensorless setup. I have a Tekin speedo coming but am on the fence about motor. That Castle 1800kv looks like a great deal but I'd like a real assesment of what is lost going with sensorless.

immarcescibile

Great report Jason!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It helps us a lot mate!!!
Thank you very much!!

Nice rides then...

3 Questions:

1)Do you think that Mamba Max Pro ESC will be a good choiche instead of classic Mamba Monster? Lighter, smaller, high Amperes..the problem is overhating matters...will use it with 4s batteries + Mamba 1512-1800KV 1.5 Turn
2)Will a Losi 8ight-E 2.0 Proline Slipstream body fit my MBX6?? That is a very nice body!!!
3)Is the Losi battery's tray #LOSA4461 ??

Thanks a lot another time Jason for helping me!