MBX6 conversion - gear suggestions...
#31
Some fresh news:
I've decided to purchase a Mamba Max Pro as official ESC to use with my brand new 1512 - 1800Kv engine...
Should I use a Castle external BEC with 4s configuration according to you guys??
I've decided to purchase a Mamba Max Pro as official ESC to use with my brand new 1512 - 1800Kv engine...
Should I use a Castle external BEC with 4s configuration according to you guys??
#32
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
mbx6
well heres my car very similar setup
i am using losi tray with castle monster ESC ,am running a castle 1800KV with 4s and 16 tooth pinion ,
with the losi tray you use the exhaust mount point up front the redrill another 2 mounting points
i have dremeled and pushed my esc a bit further up the tray to fit .
i have used losi Slipstream body and have added a few mm at front to lift body and redrilled and lowered body mount on rear to get lower .
i have also used a traxxas erevo 1/16th receiver box for my receiver and also thrown the new smaller mylaps transponder in there .
all in all it looks the part and performs ...shoot any questions guys
i am using losi tray with castle monster ESC ,am running a castle 1800KV with 4s and 16 tooth pinion ,
with the losi tray you use the exhaust mount point up front the redrill another 2 mounting points
i have dremeled and pushed my esc a bit further up the tray to fit .
i have used losi Slipstream body and have added a few mm at front to lift body and redrilled and lowered body mount on rear to get lower .
i have also used a traxxas erevo 1/16th receiver box for my receiver and also thrown the new smaller mylaps transponder in there .
all in all it looks the part and performs ...shoot any questions guys
#33
Gen, even your project it's great!
-Can you make me some clear photos describing the technical mods to fit the slipstream body + some photos of the body installed taken from left or right side please?
-Moreover, which receiver can I put in a receiver box like yours?? I have Spektrum Pro 3001 receiver...
-Which tires/wheels have you installed in the above photos??
Then to all the guys who want to reply:
I'll use a Mamba Max Pro as official ESC with my brand new 1512 - 1800Kv engine and 4s-40/50c-4000/5000Mah batteries...Should I use a Castle external BEC with 4s configuration according to you guys??I'll have an Ace1015 steering servo or a Sanwa Erg-WX...
And should I use any external capacitor soldered to the deans (to guarantee protection in intensive usage)??
Thanks in advance for helping me
-Can you make me some clear photos describing the technical mods to fit the slipstream body + some photos of the body installed taken from left or right side please?
-Moreover, which receiver can I put in a receiver box like yours?? I have Spektrum Pro 3001 receiver...
-Which tires/wheels have you installed in the above photos??
Then to all the guys who want to reply:
I'll use a Mamba Max Pro as official ESC with my brand new 1512 - 1800Kv engine and 4s-40/50c-4000/5000Mah batteries...Should I use a Castle external BEC with 4s configuration according to you guys??I'll have an Ace1015 steering servo or a Sanwa Erg-WX...
And should I use any external capacitor soldered to the deans (to guarantee protection in intensive usage)??
Thanks in advance for helping me
Last edited by immarcescibile; 11-29-2010 at 05:04 AM.
#34
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
mbx6
here are some pics of body left and right sides ,,
i played with both body mounts to get body sitting right front ,i added a few mm ,rear i dremmelled ,cut and redrilled a mbx6t rear body mount to fit
im sure a pektrum receiver will fit that radio box ,and the tires are schumacer mini pins as we sometimes race on grass /astro surface
i played with both body mounts to get body sitting right front ,i added a few mm ,rear i dremmelled ,cut and redrilled a mbx6t rear body mount to fit
im sure a pektrum receiver will fit that radio box ,and the tires are schumacer mini pins as we sometimes race on grass /astro surface
#36
Thank you very much Gen!!
#37
Som my Tekin 1700kv motor arrived and I'm building my MBX6 conversion over this weekend. I saw in an earlier post that a user is running a 16T with 1800kv. Is this tall enough for 1700kv as well? This winter the car will be run on a 120x60 indoor track, bigger outdoor tracks in summer. I may use modest timing boost to gear lower an get back top end later. 16T good?
#39
Tech Addict
Looks good Gen. And I agree 16T seems like the ideal pinion for my 1800 motor too. It would have to be a pretty small and tight track to go back to 15T. But my Tekin 1900 loves a 15T. My buddy runs a 1700KV tekins using a 16 or 17T depending on the track. Here is an observation I have done over the years with motors and pinions.
CC 2200kv=13-14T
TEk 2050kv=14T
TEK 1900kv=15T
CC 1800kv=16T
TEk 1700kv=17T
All on 4s and geared this way to try and get about the same RPMs to your wheels and speed for an avg. U.S. Track. BUT the higher kv motor with lower Pinions were very torquey (too torquey) but ran very cool. Hot only if you had excessive wheel spin on slippery tracks and you did not control that excessive torque.
On the other side of the spectrum you obviously had to go higher Tooth with the lower KV motors to get the same speed out of them but you were taxing the motor harder with those taller teeth and they sometimes got hot. 1700kv users with tekin claim they stay cooler than 1800 castle guys. Must be a Tekin thing.
So, time and time again the 1900kv Tekin with a 15T (14T on very tight or small tracks) has always yielded me the best combo of straight speed, infield torque and medium to cool temps. Plus I simply got tired of all the coggin with Castle motors vs. Tekin Motors. Tekin motors also run abec7 bearings and Castle run abec1 so they can and DO wear out quicker on castle.
CC 2200kv=13-14T
TEk 2050kv=14T
TEK 1900kv=15T
CC 1800kv=16T
TEk 1700kv=17T
All on 4s and geared this way to try and get about the same RPMs to your wheels and speed for an avg. U.S. Track. BUT the higher kv motor with lower Pinions were very torquey (too torquey) but ran very cool. Hot only if you had excessive wheel spin on slippery tracks and you did not control that excessive torque.
On the other side of the spectrum you obviously had to go higher Tooth with the lower KV motors to get the same speed out of them but you were taxing the motor harder with those taller teeth and they sometimes got hot. 1700kv users with tekin claim they stay cooler than 1800 castle guys. Must be a Tekin thing.
So, time and time again the 1900kv Tekin with a 15T (14T on very tight or small tracks) has always yielded me the best combo of straight speed, infield torque and medium to cool temps. Plus I simply got tired of all the coggin with Castle motors vs. Tekin Motors. Tekin motors also run abec7 bearings and Castle run abec1 so they can and DO wear out quicker on castle.
#41
Looks good Gen. And I agree 16T seems like the ideal pinion for my 1800 motor too. It would have to be a pretty small and tight track to go back to 15T. But my Tekin 1900 loves a 15T. My buddy runs a 1700KV tekins using a 16 or 17T depending on the track. Here is an observation I have done over the years with motors and pinions.
CC 2200kv=13-14T
TEk 2050kv=14T
TEK 1900kv=15T
CC 1800kv=16T
TEk 1700kv=17T
All on 4s and geared this way to try and get about the same RPMs to your wheels and speed for an avg. U.S. Track. BUT the higher kv motor with lower Pinions were very torquey (too torquey) but ran very cool. Hot only if you had excessive wheel spin on slippery tracks and you did not control that excessive torque.
On the other side of the spectrum you obviously had to go higher Tooth with the lower KV motors to get the same speed out of them but you were taxing the motor harder with those taller teeth and they sometimes got hot. 1700kv users with tekin claim they stay cooler than 1800 castle guys. Must be a Tekin thing.
So, time and time again the 1900kv Tekin with a 15T (14T on very tight or small tracks) has always yielded me the best combo of straight speed, infield torque and medium to cool temps. Plus I simply got tired of all the coggin with Castle motors vs. Tekin Motors. Tekin motors also run abec7 bearings and Castle run abec1 so they can and DO wear out quicker on castle.
CC 2200kv=13-14T
TEk 2050kv=14T
TEK 1900kv=15T
CC 1800kv=16T
TEk 1700kv=17T
All on 4s and geared this way to try and get about the same RPMs to your wheels and speed for an avg. U.S. Track. BUT the higher kv motor with lower Pinions were very torquey (too torquey) but ran very cool. Hot only if you had excessive wheel spin on slippery tracks and you did not control that excessive torque.
On the other side of the spectrum you obviously had to go higher Tooth with the lower KV motors to get the same speed out of them but you were taxing the motor harder with those taller teeth and they sometimes got hot. 1700kv users with tekin claim they stay cooler than 1800 castle guys. Must be a Tekin thing.
So, time and time again the 1900kv Tekin with a 15T (14T on very tight or small tracks) has always yielded me the best combo of straight speed, infield torque and medium to cool temps. Plus I simply got tired of all the coggin with Castle motors vs. Tekin Motors. Tekin motors also run abec7 bearings and Castle run abec1 so they can and DO wear out quicker on castle.
The ABEC rating does not relate to wear life. It is due to material quality. Theoretically, a higher ABEC rated bearing should wear faster if made of the same materials as the lower rated bearing. ABEC is a measurment of tolerance only. Learned this selling in-line skating equipment when all the aftermarket companies started selling ABEC5-7 bearings made as cheap as possible from China. They were fast for a couple of days, then they started failing.
#42
Thanks guys fror the useful informations!
Anyone Tried the Xerun 1950Kv/2000Kv combo???
Anyone Tried the Xerun 1950Kv/2000Kv combo???
#43
Tech Addict
Thanks, that's great info.
The ABEC rating does not relate to wear life. It is due to material quality. Theoretically, a higher ABEC rated bearing should wear faster if made of the same materials as the lower rated bearing. ABEC is a measurment of tolerance only. Learned this selling in-line skating equipment when all the aftermarket companies started selling ABEC5-7 bearings made as cheap as possible from China. They were fast for a couple of days, then they started failing.
The ABEC rating does not relate to wear life. It is due to material quality. Theoretically, a higher ABEC rated bearing should wear faster if made of the same materials as the lower rated bearing. ABEC is a measurment of tolerance only. Learned this selling in-line skating equipment when all the aftermarket companies started selling ABEC5-7 bearings made as cheap as possible from China. They were fast for a couple of days, then they started failing.
And while your right the wear should not matter I suppose if the bearing was spinning on a fan or a piece of testing machinery in a testing lab, but when the looser balls of an ABEC1 (on a skate or 1/8th buggy) are thrashing back and forth with massive lateral side forces as we do in the real world but not in the laboratory; that creates more friction and wear, especially when you consider there is more space for grit to fly in there and grind things up.
#44
That's where the myth of bearing tolerance/quality comes in. Tighter tolerance bearings get destroyed faster in dirty conditions due to the inability to tolerate/pass debris through them. This is especially true of ceramic hybrid (deramic ball/steel races) bearings.
Tekin's held up better because they spent the extra pennies on better metal.
What do you think of my earlier gearing question, I'd really value your opinion Jason, you seem to have lots of experience with the different combinations.
Tekin's held up better because they spent the extra pennies on better metal.
What do you think of my earlier gearing question, I'd really value your opinion Jason, you seem to have lots of experience with the different combinations.
#45
Tech Addict
That's where the myth of bearing tolerance/quality comes in. Tighter tolerance bearings get destroyed faster in dirty conditions due to the inability to tolerate/pass debris through them. This is especially true of ceramic hybrid (deramic ball/steel races) bearings.
Tekin's held up better because they spent the extra pennies on better metal.
What do you think of my earlier gearing question, I'd really value your opinion Jason, you seem to have lots of experience with the different combinations.
Tekin's held up better because they spent the extra pennies on better metal.
What do you think of my earlier gearing question, I'd really value your opinion Jason, you seem to have lots of experience with the different combinations.