48LikesHyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread
11-17-2010, 11:40 AM
#751
Tech Adept
So I just ordered one of these bad boys today and am quite excited to get it! I have tried resisting getting one for the past few weeks and finally broke down haha.
Anyways, I will be running it at ARC in Temecula, WCRC, and OCRC. I will be running it with the Castle Sidewinder SCT combo on 2s Lipo only.
What should I start my gearing with pinion wise? I think the truck comes with a 13t correct? Is that 13t too small or too big with the Sidewinder SCT combo??
Any help would be appreciated!
Anyways, I will be running it at ARC in Temecula, WCRC, and OCRC. I will be running it with the Castle Sidewinder SCT combo on 2s Lipo only.
What should I start my gearing with pinion wise? I think the truck comes with a 13t correct? Is that 13t too small or too big with the Sidewinder SCT combo??
Any help would be appreciated!
Castle and Neu always make good motors.
If Hyper 10 TT has same Front/Rear Differential Gear Ratio with Hyper Mini STe,then you could use this speed calc. (ratio is 3.2)
scriptasylum(.)com/rc_speed/_top_speed.html
exported values (use import option to use them with speed calc)
Differential Ratio: 3.2
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 42
Pinion Tooth Count: 13
Total Voltage: 7.4
Motor KV: 3800
Tire Diameter (inches): 3.35
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 3.23 : 1
Total Ratio: 10.33846 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 10.52 inches (267.32 mm)
Rollout: 1.02:1
Total Motor Speed: 28120 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 27.11 mph (43.54 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 3800
KT constant: 0.36 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Torque: Amperage not specified...
Final Power: Amperage not specified...
I think you should gear it up a little (if the calculator is correct)
11-17-2010, 12:32 PM
#752
Hey guys I just wanted to let everyone know what to get for the steering mod I did which works great! I was the yellow OfnaTT in the video at Mikes Hobby Shop. All you need to buy are;
1. Any 1" turnbuckle (Lunsford or Associated and since they come in a pair, you can split the cost with a buddy since you each only need one turnbuckle
)
2. Lunsford LONG ballstuds
3. Long RPM ballcups
4. Two washers roughly 5mm (I used my old limiters that came with my Losi shock rebuild cartriges. It comes with two in a pack, use the BIGGER one)
Now for the steps installing the rack;
1. Take out the crappy silver "rack"
2. Put one washer under each ballstud and screw it in from the bottom of the steering posts, NOT THE TOP (the new rack will be under the front coupling instead of the top like the old one)
3. Screw your RPM ballcups on turnbuckle till it bottoms out. Yes screw all the way in till it stops. Pop the ballcups on the ballstuds under the front coupling. (The easiest way to do it for me was pop on one side first, than slide the turnbuckle under the coupling and pop on the other)
4. Make sure you have no subtrim in your steering and recenter your servo. After recentering your servo adjust your toe in/out accordingly to your preference, than adjust your enpoints on your radio to limit or add travel. Drive it and you should notice quite a difference!
I hope I didnt make this sound to difficult to understand!
But if ya got any questions feel free to ask. Thanks guys,
Ray
1. Any 1" turnbuckle (Lunsford or Associated and since they come in a pair, you can split the cost with a buddy since you each only need one turnbuckle
)2. Lunsford LONG ballstuds
3. Long RPM ballcups
4. Two washers roughly 5mm (I used my old limiters that came with my Losi shock rebuild cartriges. It comes with two in a pack, use the BIGGER one)
Now for the steps installing the rack;
1. Take out the crappy silver "rack"
2. Put one washer under each ballstud and screw it in from the bottom of the steering posts, NOT THE TOP (the new rack will be under the front coupling instead of the top like the old one)
3. Screw your RPM ballcups on turnbuckle till it bottoms out. Yes screw all the way in till it stops. Pop the ballcups on the ballstuds under the front coupling. (The easiest way to do it for me was pop on one side first, than slide the turnbuckle under the coupling and pop on the other)
4. Make sure you have no subtrim in your steering and recenter your servo. After recentering your servo adjust your toe in/out accordingly to your preference, than adjust your enpoints on your radio to limit or add travel. Drive it and you should notice quite a difference!
I hope I didnt make this sound to difficult to understand!
But if ya got any questions feel free to ask. Thanks guys,Ray
1" turnbuckel how long is that in mm ?
What size ballend ? 3mm,6mm (you get the picture) and how long of a ball stud ?
What sive ball end cups ? 3mm,6mm(again you get the picture)
Or does anyone have the part numbers for this mod ?
Thanks inadvance for any help..
11-17-2010, 12:52 PM
#753
So I just ordered one of these bad boys today and am quite excited to get it! I have tried resisting getting one for the past few weeks and finally broke down haha.
Anyways, I will be running it at ARC in Temecula, WCRC, and OCRC. I will be running it with the Castle Sidewinder SCT combo on 2s Lipo only.
What should I start my gearing with pinion wise? I think the truck comes with a 13t correct? Is that 13t too small or too big with the Sidewinder SCT combo??
Any help would be appreciated!
Anyways, I will be running it at ARC in Temecula, WCRC, and OCRC. I will be running it with the Castle Sidewinder SCT combo on 2s Lipo only.
What should I start my gearing with pinion wise? I think the truck comes with a 13t correct? Is that 13t too small or too big with the Sidewinder SCT combo??
Any help would be appreciated!
11-17-2010, 02:03 PM
#758
Tech Adept
Airbrush? Or spray cans?
Also,what motor/esc/battery are you using?
11-17-2010, 02:13 PM
#759
Tech Regular
iTrader: (21)
I took the etronics from my jammin 4x4sc....
SPX profile 1, Novak Ballistic 4.5, 2S 50C 5000mah. It's got the Eliterc motor mount, STRC center diff mount, STRC rear hubs, STRC wheel hex and STRC top plate, I also changed the steering bushings to bearings. I replaced the blue spur to the metal since it was leaking. So far so good. Next up are those sick looking chassis braces and 'black' ackerman bar.
11-17-2010, 02:32 PM
#761
Tech Adept
OK.Thanks for sharing.
How are your motor's temps?Is it good for this truck?Top speed?
I'm planning to get a 4.5T Ballistic for my Hyper Mini STe.(almost the same - I'l make an extended chassis so it will be the same)
How are your motor's temps?Is it good for this truck?Top speed?
I'm planning to get a 4.5T Ballistic for my Hyper Mini STe.(almost the same - I'l make an extended chassis so it will be the same)
11-17-2010, 04:14 PM
#762
Tech Apprentice
FWIW, I've been running my new Castle SCT combo outdoors with a 15T pinion and a little extra timing advance. It's a rocket, but still controllable in my opinion. With the fan mounted on the motor, temps were high but safe. For something the size of ARC, I think you'll need to go bigger than 13T with the stock spur, like 15T if you have good throttle control and 14T if you need to gear for throttle control.
11-17-2010, 04:16 PM
#763
FWIW, I've been running my new Castle SCT combo outdoors with a 15T pinion and a little extra timing advance. It's a rocket, but still controllable in my opinion. With the fan mounted on the motor, temps were high but safe. For something the size of ARC, I think you'll need to go bigger than 13T with the stock spur, like 15T if you have good throttle control and 14T if you need to gear for throttle control.
How much timing did you use?
11-17-2010, 04:34 PM
#764
I am really digging that paint job!
11-17-2010, 05:41 PM
#765
Has anyone found a "CVA", other than the Ofna to replace the rear dogbones?
I have broken 2 stub axles and that's getting old. I asked around at my lhs and 2 guys have bent the Ofna CVA's.
Thanks in advance for your help.
I have broken 2 stub axles and that's getting old. I asked around at my lhs and 2 guys have bent the Ofna CVA's.
Thanks in advance for your help.