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Old 12-02-2010, 11:34 PM   #1036
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They are pro-line gladiators: http://prolineracing.com/1-10-truck-tires-gladiator
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:43 PM   #1037
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Ok.Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:55 PM   #1038
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Hello, I was wondering if anyone else had to shim their steering posts? Mine had a mm of vertical slop or better. I was able to get it straightened out with a couple of 5mm shims. However I'm still having some binding in my drivetrain. I was able to rule out the spur gear and it seems to be coming from both my front and rear diff roughly every 3 turns of the drive cups. Are these issues fairly typical of a kit, I wasn't expecting to have to tear this thing down. I thought I was going to be able to install my electronics and go?

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Old 12-03-2010, 05:14 AM   #1039
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I also have vertical slop in my steering rack. What shims did you use? Or how about using a flanged bearing on the top of both sides of the rack??
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:59 AM   #1040
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I also have vertical slop in my steering rack. What shims did you use? Or how about using a flanged bearing on the top of both sides of the rack??
I used 5mm Losi shims. I placed them between the servo saver and the bearing on the top because I didn't want the shim to move between the top of the steel shaft and the upper arm holder if the screw came loose. I placed one on the bottom too, but just let it sit at the bottom of the shaft since it has nowhere to go. The flanged bearing is an interesting idea, I hadn't considered it.
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Old 12-03-2010, 03:59 PM   #1041
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So I put the STRC spur on to fix the leaking center diff issue...It's still leaking. I didn't counter sink the holes for the 3mm screws you are supposed to use (per DJ) instead of the stock 2.6mm screws.
I'm ordering that ST Racing spur....what is this mod as per DJ that you speak
of?
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:33 PM   #1042
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I'm ordering that ST Racing spur....what is this mod as per DJ that you speak
of?
Drill out the holes to 3mm and make the stock counter sink holes bigger to accommodate the new 3mm screws.
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:46 PM   #1043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperTT View Post
I used 5mm Losi shims. I placed them between the servo saver and the bearing on the top because I didn't want the shim to move between the top of the steel shaft and the upper arm holder if the screw came loose. I placed one on the bottom too, but just let it sit at the bottom of the shaft since it has nowhere to go. The flanged bearing is an interesting idea, I hadn't considered it.
quick question, the binding you talk about, is it when the truck is off the ground and your suspension is at full throw???
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:23 PM   #1044
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That's great.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:24 PM   #1045
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quick question, the binding you talk about, is it when the truck is off the ground and your suspension is at full throw???
It seems to exist at all suspension ranges. This is my first electric and I'm not sure if it's significant. It doesn't take a whole lot of effort to overcome the binding but it exists.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:36 PM   #1046
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Questions??

Ok so I bought the new steering wire from Nitro House and got in the mail today I went and measured it and low and behold its shorter then the stock one that came with the 10tt. So the stock one measured at 54.76mm and the new one from Nitro house measured at 53.54mm so my question is why does Nitro House say it is 54mm and is bigger then the stock one.. Anyone have a answer to this?? And yes I ordered the right one and yes they sent the right one asper the part number and there was also 2 bars in the pack..
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:31 PM   #1047
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Painted by yours truly. Changed out the shock oils from 30w to 25w. The shocks were a little to slow. Wing was brought up more. It tends to nose dive too much.

As for electronics its got a Mamba Max Pro with a 4600Kv motor. Eventually when the money is there I will change out the motor to 6.5T sensored. The ESC I will leave the same. Steering servo is a Savox.

Enjoy
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:37 PM   #1048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prettyboy View Post
Ok so I bought the new steering wire from Nitro House and got in the mail today I went and measured it and low and behold its shorter then the stock one that came with the 10tt. So the stock one measured at 54.76mm and the new one from Nitro house measured at 53.54mm so my question is why does Nitro House say it is 54mm and is bigger then the stock one.. Anyone have a answer to this?? And yes I ordered the right one and yes they sent the right one asper the part number and there was also 2 bars in the pack..
i think you got the new one with your kit. and you did'nt need to buy the other one. just a guess.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:42 PM   #1049
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Default rock n roll!

she's ready to go. drove with my 6.5 and the stock gearing. ESC got too hot, no smaller ones at the track so i went to a ss 5800, that seems about right. try it out sunday
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:38 AM   #1050
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Hi guys. I need a shitload of help. I got my truck, took it out of the box, installed bearings in the steering, the shorter ackerman arm and then the electronics. It has the Castle SCT Sidewinder system.

I'm having a lot of problems. I have no idea how to set the truck up. It seems to be nose diving quite a bit. Our track has a big tripple and no matter what I do the car noses over and flips and lands on its back. Its also kicking the rear up a lot while jumping. It is doing all of this with or without drag brake and off or on the throttle.

I started with the 13T pinion and it was way too small. Then I moved up to a 15 and it still seems a little slow. The motor is probably not even a 100 degrees and the esc after 10 minutes....I usually don't run that long but I was trying it out. I didn't even try the car out before I raced it last night. Honestly, I should have smoked the pack but I took a 3rd or 4th.

The shock oil out of the box seems too heavy especially since it was probably between 30-40 when we were racing.

Anyway, I wasted the body, the rear shock tower, and the wing mount on my first night....although most of the damge was from a T4 landing on me I still had the truck upside down alot. Any recommendations about the nose diving? It was also bucking when under full acceleration but I'm pretty sure that was due to the shock oil being too thick.

Please help! I think that I could dominate 10th scale at my local track if I could keep the car upright!!
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