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Old 01-09-2017, 08:05 PM   #4036
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I have a hyper 10sc which shares about 90% of the same parts. The best thing I did for my car was purchase a T-bone racing.com front bumper. Look into it....best money you will ever spend if it fits....
Thanks. I've got one, you can see it in the picture above.
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:13 PM   #4037
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I took mine to the track this weekend, they grouped me with the 4wd mod SC trucks.

It felt very narrow to me. Made it feel a little twitchy on the high bite surface. I think I need to find a wider offset truck wheel... Anyone know who has the widest offset?
Hey Jason.... did you ever figure out what major brand of wheel might be compatible with HoBao?

I know Losi is out of the picture, they probably have the deepest offset there is, and I've heard that the AE offset is fairly wide (almost wonder if it will be the perfect offset for your liking?) I know that's the wheel of choice that all the XT2 guys are running... maybe you can bum a set from someone at the track and try them out?

I've been spending a great deal of time exploring all the options for converting an off brand 1/10 MT into an ST, but I keep coming back to the 10TT. The only kicker is that they still haven't addressed the Ackermann bar after all these years... so I've been studying the geometry and think I might have a solution worth trying out.... so yeah... I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger on the 80% roller from Tower... I see it's currently going for $200 after discount.

If someone is motivated to sell a roller minus body/wheels for around $120 shipped... then shoot me a PM with pics, otherwise I might buy a new one from Tower soon!

It's been a couple years since I sold off my HoBao collection and never thought I would get back into the brand... the last time I raced one was back up at Temple R/C Speedway in 2013:

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Old 01-12-2017, 04:21 AM   #4038
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Hey Jason.... did you ever figure out what major brand of wheel might be compatible with HoBao?

I know Losi is out of the picture, they probably have the deepest offset there is, and I've heard that the AE offset is fairly wide (almost wonder if it will be the perfect offset for your liking?) I know that's the wheel of choice that all the XT2 guys are running... maybe you can bum a set from someone at the track and try them out?

I've been spending a great deal of time exploring all the options for converting an off brand 1/10 MT into an ST, but I keep coming back to the 10TT. The only kicker is that they still haven't addressed the Ackermann bar after all these years... so I've been studying the geometry and think I might have a solution worth trying out.... so yeah... I think I'm about ready to pull the trigger on the 80% roller from Tower... I see it's currently going for $200 after discount.

If someone is motivated to sell a roller minus body/wheels for around $120 shipped... then shoot me a PM with pics, otherwise I might buy a new one from Tower soon!

It's been a couple years since I sold off my HoBao collection and never thought I would get back into the brand... the last time I raced one was back up at Temple R/C Speedway in 2013:

That looks sharp Bill !! That new Traxxas Bigfoot body would be sweet on the TT
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:52 AM   #4039
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I did, Bill. I actually need HyperTT, or wheels made for my Jammin... They have the offset I need.

I currently have 1 set. But the have small pins on them, with open cell foams inside. I'll probably be running them this weekend.

Last time I had the truck out, I swapped for set of dirt webs on AE wheels (borrowed off Snoop).. While they had way more bite, they're the ones that made it twitchy. Mainly because the truck was much narrower.

Since I have the converted jammin truck, I have an Ackerman. It seems to be build well, and the truck turns great. I'll come by your pit this weekend, Bill, letchya check it out. Brent should have his new Hyper, maybe you can scope it out too, see if they've made any changes.
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:06 AM   #4040
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Thanks for the compliment Slowrc, that pic was taken about 3-4 years ago when I did my MT conversion using the SC shock towers/body mounts:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...44#post1577144

Thanks for the info Jason... good to know you're talking about the Jammin rig, because the Hyper series has never been the least bit twitchy in my first 3 years of club racing along with the brand. It wasn't until Tekno released their SCT410 when I started to realize how much steering I was missing out, but I was still green and didn't fully understand the geometry around Ackermann bars (yes there's 2 N's in the name):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackerm...ering_geometry

Anyway, I was studying my Tekno last night and I'm going to try and model it after their Ackermann design, but make it more of a U-shape pattern... my only concern is shifting the ball links too far toward the rear of the chassis might produce far too aggressive of an angle, so I have to imagine there will be some trial and error.

I'm really surprised that nobody has made any changes since the "Tim Bump Edition" was released around 5 years ago. I went over Brent's car and confirmed all the Bump changes were there (i.e. upgraded lower arms, upgraded rear upright)... more of these nuances are covered on this thread here:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=148285

If enough of us express a demand for it, I know RPM will start making some arms for us, we just have to blow up this thread with interest from folks who are committed to buying RPM arms and then they'll design something for us.

Side note, I once raced a 10ATV conversion too:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho....php?p=2005433

I think this is the first time I've ever started placing orders for upgrade parts before buying the car! What I miss the most was my favorite distributor is no longer around (RC Word)... my only guess is that they must've been doing fire sale pricing on their inventory when I was racing the brand. All the parts through HoBaoUSA are practically double the price I paid from RCWord, plus I got free shipping direct from Taiwan from them.... those were the days!

Now that HoBao is making a come back, I wonder if STRC will do another production run? They seem to have clearance pricing on all the HoBao upgrades, which is nice on my wallet for the time being but will suck when the remaining parts go out of stock. I guess I'll have to make my own carbon shock towers for the time being, unless someone knows of some other distributor selling them?
*** Update, it seems that SNR is still cutting towers made to order here:
http://www.snrgraphite.com/index.php...x&cPath=34_2_6


I just need to sell 1 more car in my collection and then I'll have the funds to buy the 10TT next!

Last edited by billdelong; 01-12-2017 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:55 AM   #4041
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Bill-

A quick note, before you start ordering.

I have a jammin SC truck. It's very dirty and used. But, if you've converted before, you could easily again.

Let me know if you might be interested in it.

Text me (I thought I had your number) , or we can chat Sat.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:59 AM   #4042
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Isn't (or should I say "wasn't") the Jammin made by HongNor?

That being said... how many (if any) parts are compatible with HoBao?
For example, can I replace the arms/uprights from HoBao and put them on the HongNor?

My understanding is that HongNor retired and sold his company off, but the new owner decided not to build anymore cars and subsequently discontinued everything, the buyer was only interested in the tooling equipment that HongNor used and chopped them up leaving the original HongNor product line without any long term product support:
https://www.facebook.com/ofnadave/po...16890811672097

It kinda sucks because I always thought that HongNor was a step up from HoBao... In the past I have sent suggestions to HoBao, but they never acknowledged my requests making me feel that I was on my own if any improvements were to be made to the design. I think Tim Bump's influence was because they had a solid partnership with the brand and may have met minimum order requirements to get product improvements in place.

I still see a lot of potential with the 10TT, once the steering is improved and other upgrades are applied, I believe it's a worthy contender for any club program

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Old 01-12-2017, 01:35 PM   #4043
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Hyper TT is fun, just has to get the durability stuff improved, I would buy RPM arms for sure! Seems to be the only weak point left on my truck.

Ackermann is an issue, glad to see other people have found that out also. Looking forward to seeing what solutions you guys are working on. A little toe out is what I'm using to get by for now.

What ride height are you guys running? I was doing 28 f/r, but actually am thinking of raising it next time out. I'm running high-bite indoor clay on a small track.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:37 PM   #4044
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if it's smooth I would go lower. My 10sc is at 25F 24R, Diffs 5-5-2 and 35wt oil all around.
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:13 PM   #4045
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Traxxas #3644


use these on my Hyper 10SC.
I got a set of these, didn't realize they were for the steering links and not the Ackermann bar, but no matter, still a nice upgrade.

You will need to get another set of balls -- one side is really flat and there is not enough articulation for full up and down arm travel without binding. I had some spares, so no biggie.

One nice improvement is that the balls are asymmetrical, so you can adjust bumpsteer with them.

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Old 01-12-2017, 08:09 PM   #4046
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OK, looks like the Traxxas replacements for the lame Hobao turnbuckles is:

3644 for front steering links
3643 for rear camber links

Notes:
- You need to remove the 6mm hollow ball from the Hobao rear link and re-use it on the 3643 part.
- Then re-use the 8mm hollow ball you removed from 3643 part to replace the 4mm ball on the Traxxas steering links. Otherwise you don't get enough articulation up and down in the arm.
- The notched side on the turnbuckles should all be oriented on the left-hand side of the car (driver's side). This is the reverse threaded side. You don't have to do it this way, but this is the normal convention.
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:05 AM   #4047
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It's been roughly 4 years since I've touched a 10TT, but I don't recall having any problems with the ball links, can you please be more specific on what the problem is?

If you're having binding issues, I've had some cars that had some binding in the captured ends, and all I needed to do was pinch my balls with ball link pliers:





In this particular case, it was an RTR that wasn't properly assembled, I've since re-coined the phrase:
RTR = Ready To Reassemble
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Old 01-13-2017, 02:24 AM   #4048
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It's been roughly 4 years since I've touched a 10TT, but I don't recall having any problems with the ball links, can you please be more specific on what the problem is?
The stock turnbuckles don't have a square or hex portion in the middle to slip a wrench on like a normal turnbuckle. Instead, it's got a hole to stick a hex driver in to turn. So you can only access it at 180 degree points, instead of every 90 or 60 degrees (with a square or hex shape). It tends to bend your 1.5mm hex driver too.

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Old 01-13-2017, 06:39 AM   #4049
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The stock turnbuckles don't have a square or hex portion in the middle to slip a wrench on like a normal turnbuckle. Instead, it's got a hole to stick a hex driver in to turn. So you can only access it at 180 degree points, instead of every 90 or 60 degrees (with a square or hex shape). It tends to bend your 1.5mm hex driver too.
Interesting, that's a feature that I've always loved about the design and have always wished that other manufactures would start doing too! I've always used a small sacrificial L-wrench and could easily make adjustments at every angle imaginable, yes the wrench might bend a little out of shape from time to time, but I always felt it far easier to tune than fiddling with traditional turnbuckle wrenches that tend to be more restrictive IMO. Just to be a little more clear, I would always use the short end of the L-wrench to stick into the slot and then you can rotate it while leaving the wrench in place throughout the whole tuning adjustment cycle, I've never had that luxury on any other turnbuckle design, and some brands of cars I've actually rounded my turnbuckles and there is no risk of that ever happening with the HoBao design
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Old 01-13-2017, 04:20 PM   #4050
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bill should avert his eyes now, everyone else can read on...

The last turnbuckle to replace is the drag link on the servo horn. I found some old school AE RC10 World's car turnbuckles that are the right length. They're SAE instead of metric, so the diameter is a little smaller than the stock turnbuckle, but they seem close and seem to work. I reused the existing ballcups.

AE 6264:



Traxxas 2443 looks like it might work too.
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