Hyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread
#4021
I'm investigating what other shocks fit, and have some ideas... In the meantime, 25wt Associated in the rear is loads better, the stuff that came with it is like molasses!
#4022
Tech Apprentice
Maybe its on tha older models(not sure) but tha shock pops on and off a ball like screw... Ofna part 19031 called a steel ball,shock...Just a pain to pop it on or off...
#4023
Ah OK, I see. I just unscrew the cap head on the other side and leave the steel ball in the shock cap.
#4024
Tech Apprentice
#4025
OK, truck is back up and running. Installed a bunch of durability upgrades. Integy billet knuckles and top brace, STRC aluminum hexes, TLR serrated/lock wheel nuts, and the T-bone bumper.
Hopefully this keeps it up and running for a while!
Hopefully this keeps it up and running for a while!
#4026
Tech Adept
Well if I had decided to turn on a video camera yesterday, I would of a nice burning ESC for everyone to see! So now I am in the market for a new one. I am thinking either Castle or HobbyWing. Can I get some opinions as to which one I should go with? If you feel a particular combo is worth looking at I am all ears.
If you are wondering it was the Traxxas VXL that went up, I only installed that because it was all I had on-hand at the time.
If you are wondering it was the Traxxas VXL that went up, I only installed that because it was all I had on-hand at the time.
#4027
#4028
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Sorry to hear about the ESC, hopefully the truck escaped unharmed! The HW is pretty big and heavy, if there were a lighter and smaller ESC, I would consider that.
Weights of my electronics:
http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2017...s-weights.html
Weights of my electronics:
http://razorrcblog.blogspot.com/2017...s-weights.html
#4030
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
#4031
Nice. Think I want one of them for Pro4
#4032
Tech Adept
Honestly, nothing. I'm not sure why we are branding it that way. It's just what we are calling the combos that come with the 1410 and 1415.
Edit:
Also worth pointing out that both the 1410 and 1415 are available with 1/8th(3.2mm) and 5mm shafts, and the 5mm shafts are longer than the old motors because there was some cars that the pinions were hanging 4-5mm of the end of the shaft to get the correct mesh. For most setups the 5mm shaft is going to be better because of the extra strength, but you'll need a different pinion.
Edit:
Also worth pointing out that both the 1410 and 1415 are available with 1/8th(3.2mm) and 5mm shafts, and the 5mm shafts are longer than the old motors because there was some cars that the pinions were hanging 4-5mm of the end of the shaft to get the correct mesh. For most setups the 5mm shaft is going to be better because of the extra strength, but you'll need a different pinion.
Last edited by robert@castle; 01-08-2017 at 05:48 PM.
#4033
Tech Adept
#4034
OK, this time I got to run 2 battery packs before I hit the pipe and snapped an upper arm. I wouldn't say it was a soft hit, but certainly something most cars would survive. The aluminum knuckles held up great at least!
The car was fun while it lasted, and gave me a big smile on my face. Oh well, new arms on order and I'll try boiling them to see if that makes them more flexible.
I also figured out some tuning information. Definitely ditch the front swaybar.
Rear blue Losi springs with 25wt AE oil works pretty well, I left the front shocks stock but it's definitely overdamped and probably a little oversprung as well. I'm going to try the blue Losi spring up front with 30wt AE oil next time I can get the truck running.
I also noticed a design flaw in the steering -- there is NO Ackermann steering whatsoever! In fact, I'd even say the front seems to have reverse Ackermann. This really hurts the slow speed, tight corners and 180 degree turns. A little toe out helps combat this issue, but that's a design flaw in my opinion. I have the 54mm Ackermann bar btw, I'll try swapping it out for the Traxxas part above. Maybe I can dial in a little more Ackermann with the adjustable part.
Wheels are basically parallel or even slightly reverse Ackermann at full-lock. It doesn't look that way in the picture, but trust me -- it is.
The car was fun while it lasted, and gave me a big smile on my face. Oh well, new arms on order and I'll try boiling them to see if that makes them more flexible.
I also figured out some tuning information. Definitely ditch the front swaybar.
Rear blue Losi springs with 25wt AE oil works pretty well, I left the front shocks stock but it's definitely overdamped and probably a little oversprung as well. I'm going to try the blue Losi spring up front with 30wt AE oil next time I can get the truck running.
I also noticed a design flaw in the steering -- there is NO Ackermann steering whatsoever! In fact, I'd even say the front seems to have reverse Ackermann. This really hurts the slow speed, tight corners and 180 degree turns. A little toe out helps combat this issue, but that's a design flaw in my opinion. I have the 54mm Ackermann bar btw, I'll try swapping it out for the Traxxas part above. Maybe I can dial in a little more Ackermann with the adjustable part.
Wheels are basically parallel or even slightly reverse Ackermann at full-lock. It doesn't look that way in the picture, but trust me -- it is.
#4035
I have a hyper 10sc which shares about 90% of the same parts. The best thing I did for my car was purchase a T-bone racing.com front bumper. Look into it....best money you will ever spend if it fits....