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Old 06-19-2012, 01:06 PM   #3751
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hi, new to the forum, but been trying to read as much as possible.

I just picked 2 of these little trucks and i'm enjoying them a lot.

yesterday i broke a front steering knuckle(cracked enough to let the ball fall off)

was wondering if the aluminum steering knuckle would be the best thing. and does it make the arms weaker?

thanks.
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:10 PM   #3752
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i also put 10k ofna diff lock fluid on the rear, it was the only one fluid i had. i'm gonna take it out for a spin and see how it does.

my rear diff was locking a bit prior to that, i opened it to see if the spider gears were all messed up but i found nothing wrong. Just the little washer under the pin(connected to the outdrive for the wheels) seems a little odd, it isnt flat and it pops when you try to flatten it.

i'm new to diffs too.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:00 AM   #3753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apocalypse2099 View Post
hi, new to the forum, but been trying to read as much as possible.

I just picked 2 of these little trucks and i'm enjoying them a lot.

yesterday i broke a front steering knuckle(cracked enough to let the ball fall off)

was wondering if the aluminum steering knuckle would be the best thing. and does it make the arms weaker?

thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apocalypse2099 View Post
i also put 10k ofna diff lock fluid on the rear, it was the only one fluid i had. i'm gonna take it out for a spin and see how it does.

my rear diff was locking a bit prior to that, i opened it to see if the spider gears were all messed up but i found nothing wrong. Just the little washer under the pin(connected to the outdrive for the wheels) seems a little odd, it isnt flat and it pops when you try to flatten it.

i'm new to diffs too.
Hi mate.
These are a good budget little truggy!
Your first question regards to the front hubs- the integy aluminium ones are a great upgrade. It doesnt make the arms weaker but it does mean when u have a hard enough hit, the arms are more likely to break than if u have plastic hubs but those annoying constant breakages of the hubs will stop so IMO it makes the truggy more durable!
In regards to your rear diff oil, that far too thick! You need to run 1000 to 2000.
Those shims are even better if you polish them...
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:17 AM   #3754
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i ordered the hubs off ebay for 22 shipped. today, should be here next week.

the truggy with the 10k on the rear diff was pulling 180s really fast, i kinda like it, just concern if i could mess the diff if i keep running that way.

i broke another front hub, i hit the tire on my car going not too fast. i glued it and is holding, just cant jump.

sucks that all parts have to be ordered online, hobby shop sells the parts too expensive. and its a bit of a drive.

so far i really enjoy this truggy, i guess i should keep from doing hard jumps with it.

thanks for the info on the diffs, i'll make it to the hobby shop and buy some diff fluid this weekend.

Last edited by Apocalypse2099; 06-20-2012 at 03:17 AM. Reason: none.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:22 AM   #3755
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Hey mike, what weight shock oil you using and are you running both sway bars on yours? If you don't mine me asking, mate.

1st time I took/driven on at HH today and had trouble with steering issues where sometime it doesn't have enough lock to turn which felt like 5k diff oil was to thick? To make it turn. Still gotta get my steering straight and toe angle right though.
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Old 06-20-2012, 02:54 PM   #3756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hengsta View Post
Hey mike, what weight shock oil you using and are you running both sway bars on yours? If you don't mine me asking, mate.

1st time I took/driven on at HH today and had trouble with steering issues where sometime it doesn't have enough lock to turn which felt like 5k diff oil was to thick? To make it turn. Still gotta get my steering straight and toe angle right though.
Hey mate.
I played with shock oil alot! I had probs recently with my car at HH too so i have just changed my set-up again. My servo was stuffed though so that was my main prob...
Im now running 30wt oil front and 25wt rear. Swaybars front and rear but one of the guys down there told me they get more steering by moving the links all the way to the end of the swaybar to make them less rigid. So i did this too!
As for the diff oil, 5, 7, 1or2000 wt (f, m, r) you want the rear to be thin so you get your rear end steering with the front (ie- you dont want a locker to go round corners fast). The front you want thicker so the power transfer is more even to each side but when you back off throttle mid corner, you dont have a huge amount of direction change. If u did, the car would be too twitchy. This would happen if ur front oil was too thin. If u want theres no rules saying u cant try thinner so give it a go if u feel ur driving style will benefit? But dont go too thin in one hit cause i reckon ur better doing other checks first...
Try steering your car into corners with little to no throttle and makesure ur servo saver is screwed down firm (not tight or loose) or this will cause loss of steering under any load on the front turnbuckles (ie- side load from weight transfer in a turn)
With these things checked you should be good and just need practise and more track time... Thats my BIG problem! I live too far from the track so i dont drive enough...
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:54 PM   #3757
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I'm in the same boat as you mate, I live quite far from HH and being a arvo shift worker makes it hard to get time to go down there.

awesome I give it ago, I tried running with front sway bar off first but that didn't help was going to try with sway bar on but snap the right ball screw in the knuckle with in 10mins of driving lol can't get the screw out now so gotta get new knuckles

Yeah the servo saver is screwed down. I stay with the 5k front untill I play around with the shocks and other stuff first.

Also whats a good drag brake setting to have on? 40%?

Cheers for your help mate, much appreciated


Quote:
Originally Posted by AUSSIEMIKE View Post
Hey mate.
I played with shock oil alot! I had probs recently with my car at HH too so i have just changed my set-up again. My servo was stuffed though so that was my main prob...
Im now running 30wt oil front and 25wt rear. Swaybars front and rear but one of the guys down there told me they get more steering by moving the links all the way to the end of the swaybar to make them less rigid. So i did this too!
As for the diff oil, 5, 7, 1or2000 wt (f, m, r) you want the rear to be thin so you get your rear end steering with the front (ie- you dont want a locker to go round corners fast). The front you want thicker so the power transfer is more even to each side but when you back off throttle mid corner, you dont have a huge amount of direction change. If u did, the car would be too twitchy. This would happen if ur front oil was too thin. If u want theres no rules saying u cant try thinner so give it a go if u feel ur driving style will benefit? But dont go too thin in one hit cause i reckon ur better doing other checks first...
Try steering your car into corners with little to no throttle and makesure ur servo saver is screwed down firm (not tight or loose) or this will cause loss of steering under any load on the front turnbuckles (ie- side load from weight transfer in a turn)
With these things checked you should be good and just need practise and more track time... Thats my BIG problem! I live too far from the track so i dont drive enough...
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Old 06-21-2012, 02:36 AM   #3758
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does anyone bash with their truck. i dont bash hard, and the only issue i encounter was the steering knuckles. the arms seem to be pretty strong and flexible.

i used to bash a b4 buggy a bit harder and i rarely broke an arm on that thing.

ofcourse anything will break if you hit it hard enough, i broken stuff on my 1/8 buggy and those things are tough.

sucks that rpm didnt make arms for these trucks.
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:16 PM   #3759
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sucks this thread is pretty dead.
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Old 06-24-2012, 01:17 PM   #3760
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well if anyone interested i'll be selling one of my hyper tts soon, it's pretty clean. it will be a roller.
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:53 PM   #3761
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Trying to keep this thread alive as I have read about 75 pages and have learned a lot about this little truck.

I just got a roller of ebay, trying to set it up. I've got a 3500kv Tacon motor and a Brushless Hobbies 120A ESC. I know this question has been asked 100 times, but what pinion should I use?

I will be running 2s 5000mAh 40c battries and want it fast, but also controlable. I plan to race my in-laws on the back yard dirt track and maybe someday make it to a proper track.

Thanks for the great thread and any help in the future.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:01 PM   #3762
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mine has a 13t pinion, and i'm running a 3800kv 4 pole motor. i tried 3s and it was too much , too fast, i found it hard to control, i was running on road, a few cars passing by.

i think 2s on a 15t pinion and stock spur are good enough. the 40c is not much a deal. 3s is a different animal. i would say try out what ever pinion gear you got, check temps and see how it handles for you. my experience was, that 2s is just perfect(40c or 20c).
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:02 PM   #3763
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i say if you want something stupid fast go with a rustler. the hyper 10 tt for me is more of an agile truck to use around a course. straight speed runs are cool. but that's what rustlers are for.
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:05 PM   #3764
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i do got a question for someone. my diffs lock ,when i tighten the screws, one truck has homemade gaskets. so i'm thinking that's the reason. anyone got any ideas?
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:22 AM   #3765
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I used to own one of these when they first came out. Great little truck. I was thinking about getting another one and turning it in to a 1/10 4wd buggy to compete with b44's,Durangos,etc. It looks like it could be easily done. Has anyone ever tried it?
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