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Old 10-17-2011, 08:57 AM   #3166
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I'm new to electric been running nitro for years and I have a question. I am going to run a 10TT with CC SW 3800kv and 5000 2s 7.4 40c lipo. My question is do I need to upgrade my 4mm bullet connectors to the 5.5mm or even the 6.5mm bullet conectors since I will be pulling such high amps? Please help. Thanks
I know I didn't and it had no problems. I was using a 50C lipo.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:24 AM   #3167
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Thanks. I've been reading other threads stating the CC SW ESC won't last long. I;m going to run the fan and an external BEC. Will this help my ESC to last longer or should I go ahead and get a MMP for when it burns out? How long has your SW ESC lasted?
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:28 AM   #3168
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Thanks. I've been reading other threads stating the CC SW ESC won't last long. I;m going to run the fan and an external BEC. Will this help my ESC to last longer or should I go ahead and get a MMP for when it burns out? How long has your SW ESC lasted?


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Old 10-17-2011, 10:32 AM   #3169
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Which Tekin do you recomend? Can you use your PC to programm Tekin ESC?
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:24 PM   #3170
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I want to put foams on my 10TT. Jaco makes a foam tire/wheel for the Traxxas Rustler that will fit on the 10TT but the Rustler uses different wheels for front and back. The 10tt uses the same all the way around. So my question is do I buy all fronts or all rears?
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:34 PM   #3171
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Which Tekin do you recomend? Can you use your PC to programm Tekin ESC?
I drove my TT with the Tekin 4.5t SC4x (4800kv) motor and a RX8 esc for the first time today, and it's fast with a 15t pinion. Maybe 40ish miles per hour. This isn't a super heavy car so I agree that you don't NEED short course level torque and 1/8th scale ESCs, but they'll run much cooler and allow you to gear up if you run the long can motors. But I think you could throw a sidewinder and be pretty happy with it. Just don't go above 5000kv, and always be weary of temps, if it's too hot to touch for more than 5 seconds it's too hot. An ESC will only blow if you're running it hard, if you run them cool there is no reason you won't get a nice lifetime out of it. I've used Castle electrics before and I've always been happy with them, but I rum my stuff VERY conservatively.

The rustler is rear wheel drive so I'd assume you'd get a full set of rears. The fronts probably don't have any power appropriate tread.

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Old 10-18-2011, 05:10 AM   #3172
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Which Tekin do you recomend? Can you use your PC to programm Tekin ESC?
RX8

And yes you can PC program it
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:30 AM   #3173
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I run a Caste Creations Short Course brushless setup in my TT. I use a Venom 7.4v 20C (2S) 4000mah battery pack. I have noticed that the speed control overheats and will occasionally shut itself down momentarily. However the battery is not hot at all. Motor temps are fine.

Does this mean that I'm not running a powerful enough battery? I liken what's happening to an analogy. Suppose you are drinking a soda with a straw, but the straw is a coffee stirrer. Of course you will strain to suck up the soda with such a tiny straw. However if you have a bigger straw then the job is much easier. I compare the person drinking the soda to the ESC and the soda in the cup as the battery.

I think I need to run a higher C-rated battery, could this be the case? If so, what do you all suggest I run? I'd like to up my voltage if I can. I believe the CC brushless setup will accept up to 11.1v if I am not mistaken.

Help would be appreciated!

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:15 AM   #3174
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From what I have read you need a 40c or higher at 5000mah with the CC SW 3800kv motor. Still waiting for my 10TT to be delivered so I don't have hands on experience yet but have read a ton about it.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:33 PM   #3175
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The 4mm bullets connectors are plennnty for a Hyper TT. It is actually a pretty light car. A typical 40C, 5000 mAh battery is plenty for it as well.
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Old 10-18-2011, 02:45 PM   #3176
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Originally Posted by macnkitty2002 View Post
I run a Caste Creations Short Course brushless setup in my TT. I use a Venom 7.4v 20C (2S) 4000mah battery pack. I have noticed that the speed control overheats and will occasionally shut itself down momentarily. However the battery is not hot at all. Motor temps are fine.

Does this mean that I'm not running a powerful enough battery? I liken what's happening to an analogy. Suppose you are drinking a soda with a straw, but the straw is a coffee stirrer. Of course you will strain to suck up the soda with such a tiny straw. However if you have a bigger straw then the job is much easier. I compare the person drinking the soda to the ESC and the soda in the cup as the battery.

I think I need to run a higher C-rated battery, could this be the case? If so, what do you all suggest I run? I'd like to up my voltage if I can. I believe the CC brushless setup will accept up to 11.1v if I am not mistaken.

Help would be appreciated!

Thanks!
When you pull out a large amount of amperage your battery will struggle to keep the voltage up. A higher C rating and capacity will ensure that this V-drop is minimal. The ESCs don't like a fluctuating voltage. That'll cause damage. The short course (long can) motors have very low resistance windings which do pull quite a bit of power. Sometimes the V-drop can be so bad that the it'll drop below the ESC's low voltage cutoff trigger and think the battery is dead when it's really only about halfway. In my opinion a good battery is more important than a ESC or motor. An engine will only run as good as the gas you put into it, a BL motor will only work as well as the battery you use.

Hyperion makes the best lipos, period. Max amps is overrated and over priced. Zippys, Turnigys, and Gen Ace are good for the money. Just make sure you use foam and protect the soft packs with electrical tape.

So your straw analogy isn't far off actually. A larger straw will flow better, minimal voltage drop. As for your temps... well if you use a torquey motor you need a good ESC. Castle's electrics will run well if you don't over-gear them. Gear down a bit or try to save weight somehow. If you're over heating on 2s don't go to 3s. You'll need a better ESC, like a Tekin RX8.

-Tony
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Old 10-18-2011, 03:25 PM   #3177
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Just picked up two used ones, one to run and another for parts, over the weekend and im stoked to get it running. All im waiting on is the 3mm Mod1 pinions I bought from another member on here. Cant wait to get it running.

I'm running a CC 4600 4-pole, MMP, and hitec 7940 off a Turnigy 5200 30c. Should be ok right? Also running a capacitor as I run them on all my cars just in case. Im going to try running a 16T pinion so hopefully no heat issues.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:27 PM   #3178
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Finished mine today!

STRC rear hubs, top plate, and steering rack.
JConcepts Flip Outs
T-Bone Bumpers
CVAs all around
Steering mod tranny case
Losi Ten-T wing
Tekin RX8 ESC
Tekin SC4x 4.5t (4800kv) /w 15t pinion
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Airtronics 94774 Digi Metal Gear Servo
Futaba FASST connectivity

I moved the battery tray back to mount the ESC up front. I would have put the ESC in the back but I didn't like how it would have hung off the side of the chassis. I just need a sensor wire and to finish painting my body.







-Tony
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:29 PM   #3179
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Originally Posted by NofriendsTaco View Post
Just picked up two used ones, one to run and another for parts, over the weekend and im stoked to get it running. All im waiting on is the 3mm Mod1 pinions I bought from another member on here. Cant wait to get it running.

I'm running a CC 4600 4-pole, MMP, and hitec 7940 off a Turnigy 5200 30c. Should be ok right? Also running a capacitor as I run them on all my cars just in case. Im going to try running a 16T pinion so hopefully no heat issues.
Yeah you should be good with that setup.

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Old 10-18-2011, 11:36 PM   #3180
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Nice job! Mine will be here Thursday. Can't wait
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