Hyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread

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  • Quote: No need for 1/8 scale setup. I run a longer can as well. More torque is the benefit there, so youre alright. Youll have to figure out what pinion works best for the kv of the motor you have. And the 60A is probably okay for 2s, but what Ive learned is its always better to go a little bigger esc wise for this truck. 100A is best in my opinion. I just bought a Quik 100A from hobbyking after burning up a 60A on 3s. But the ezrun might work well for you if youre not crazy bashing Oh and maybe try to score a Sidewinder SCT esc. Lots of people run em, and you could find one on here for 50 bucks probably.
    Might just get a new eZRun SC8 120A ESC and see how that goes. I doubt the truck will need more then 3s. How durable are they as a basher? Are they a pretty reliable truck all-round?
  • Quote: Might just get a new eZRun SC8 120A ESC and see how that goes. I doubt the truck will need more then 3s. How durable are they as a basher? Are they a pretty reliable truck all-round?
    IMHO, not a good basher but a great racer. On 2s and the right setup, this rig is a rocket.
  • Is there common parts that break easily that I should order as well? Haven't got it yet but the last thing I want is it failing 5mins into using it and not being able to use it again for a week.
  • Quote: Is there common parts that break easily that I should order as well? Haven't got it yet but the last thing I want is it failing 5mins into using it and not being able to use it again for a week.
    http://www.nitrohouse.com/Car-Parts-...duct_info.html
  • Quote: Is there common parts that break easily that I should order as well? Haven't got it yet but the last thing I want is it failing 5mins into using it and not being able to use it again for a week.
    Here is a start - these are the most commonly broken parts i see during racing.

    Front knuckles
    Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
    steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
    Front arms.
    Front hinge pins and bushes
    Front hinge pin holders (front and back)

    Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.

    Cheers Matt.
  • Quote: Here is a start - these are the most commonly broken parts i see during racing.

    Front knuckles
    Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
    steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
    Front arms.
    Front hinge pins and bushes
    Front hinge pin holders (front and back)

    Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.

    Cheers Matt.
    Sorry to be a pain in the arse here but can you list the part number for the alloy parts? Please?
  • Quote: Here is a start - these are the most commonly broken parts i see during racing.

    Front knuckles
    Rear hubs - don't waste time with plastic get alloy ones.
    steering top plate - don't waste time with plastic get an alloy one.
    Front arms.
    Front hinge pins and bushes
    Front hinge pin holders (front and back)

    Carrying those parts most of us have been able to make the next heat.

    Cheers Matt.

    I would dis-agree with the alloy rear hubs. One of our local fast racers (Downtown Dave for you SD folks) put in the alloys, broke a stub axle at 6 laps. Replaced it and broke it again in like 5. He switched back to plastic. Plastic flexes, and helps buffer some of the shock during impacts. The top plate though, mine came with one (bought mine used) and I'm diggin' it. One of the other racers at the track popped out a hinge pin last night because there was too MUCH flex with the plastic top plate
  • Quote: Sorry to be a pain in the arse here but can you list the part number for the alloy parts? Please?
    This link should help with all the parts that you will need to keep this rig running. The Hop-ups tabs is where you want to go for the aluminum upgrades.

    http://www.nitrohouse.com/index.php?cPath=31_109_473
  • Has anyone had any problems with the diff gears in there TT? Mines not even 3weeks old and I think the front diff gears are stripped already. The truck won't go anywhere and you can spin the front wheels like there is no gears left. I'm Going to pull it apart when I get home. Just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and if there is a fix.
  • Quote: Has anyone had any problems with the diff gears in there TT? Mines not even 3weeks old and I think the front diff gears are stripped already. The truck won't go anywhere and you can spin the front wheels like there is no gears left. I'm Going to pull it apart when I get home. Just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and if there is a fix.
    I think there's something else going on there... The diff gears are all metal. But yeah you should get that thing apart and check it out!
  • Quote: Sorry to be a pain in the arse here but can you list the part number for the alloy parts? Please?
    I would just suggest going to the STRC website and getting the good stuff straight from them.
  • Quote: I think there's something else going on there... The diff gears are all metal. But yeah you should get that thing apart and check it out!
    You were right, it wasn't the gears. It was the cvd pin in the wheel cup broke off. Put in a new pin and it's running again. Thanks for your help.
  • Quote: I would dis-agree with the alloy rear hubs. One of our local fast racers (Downtown Dave for you SD folks) put in the alloys, broke a stub axle at 6 laps. Replaced it and broke it again in like 5. He switched back to plastic. Plastic flexes, and helps buffer some of the shock during impacts.
    Interested to know if he was running the stock dogbone or cvd?

    We saw a lot of dog bone stubs break in early days at our track but everyone is now using cvd's and no breakages since.
  • Quote: Interested to know if he was running the stock dogbone or cvd?

    We saw a lot of dog bone stubs break in early days at our track but everyone is now using cvd's and no breakages since.
    Not sure, I'll have to ask him. Wasn't there for that race, he was telling me about it the following week.
  • Quote: You were right, it wasn't the gears. It was the cvd pin in the wheel cup broke off. Put in a new pin and it's running again. Thanks for your help.
    Exactly what I was gonna' say. I seem to be going through them a fair bit (I've got 'em on all four corners). After I snapped one last night and bent the heck out of a cvd shaft, I'm trying something. Since the pins are captured by the bearings, and I only run the truck on a clay track, I'm pulling the set-screw and put some heavy-duty grease on the ends of the pins.