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Old 06-05-2011, 06:06 PM   #2911
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Do you think the 5/5/1 will be good aswell?
We have about 10 racing the TT at my locl track + many others running there but not racing.

Most of the guys run 5-5-1 (front to rear) and we have tons of steering.
Our track has a number of 180 turns and we have no problems.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:34 PM   #2912
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We have about 10 racing the TT at my locl track + many others running there but not racing.

Most of the guys run 5-5-1 (front to rear) and we have tons of steering.
Our track has a number of 180 turns and we have no problems.
This is what I wanted to hear!
As Ive said, my truck is making a harsh, quick chirp noise under hard acceleration on terrain that I guess you would say is workin the diffs more. But it shows no sign of stripping while its running from what I can see. I hold it and rotate one, two or three off\ the tires. Like push down on the front and let the rears spin in the air then push down the rear and let the front spin freely, then side to side corner to corner. Am I making sense? I dont know how to explain. More less working the diffs and switching the torque from wheel to wheel. and holding one, two or three down and leaving one, two or three up spinning. To see when it transfers if it will make the noise To see if I can hear exactly where the sound is comming from. But no luck. Its kinda random. But do you think changing the diff fluid will help this?
I want to also shim the diffs while changing the fluid. Ive never had to do this. Where do I put the shim? Between the housing and the diff to hold it tight in there? Right? What size or part # do I need?
I wanna get this right the first time as Ive grown to love this truck and run it more than any of my others. So I dont want any more down time!
Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-06-2011, 03:15 AM   #2913
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Originally Posted by RCaddict0 View Post
This is what I wanted to hear!
As Ive said, my truck is making a harsh, quick chirp noise under hard acceleration on terrain that I guess you would say is workin the diffs more. But it shows no sign of stripping while its running from what I can see. I hold it and rotate one, two or three off\ the tires. Like push down on the front and let the rears spin in the air then push down the rear and let the front spin freely, then side to side corner to corner. Am I making sense? I dont know how to explain. More less working the diffs and switching the torque from wheel to wheel. and holding one, two or three down and leaving one, two or three up spinning. To see when it transfers if it will make the noise To see if I can hear exactly where the sound is comming from. But no luck. Its kinda random. But do you think changing the diff fluid will help this?
I want to also shim the diffs while changing the fluid. Ive never had to do this. Where do I put the shim? Between the housing and the diff to hold it tight in there? Right? What size or part # do I need?
I wanna get this right the first time as Ive grown to love this truck and run it more than any of my others. So I dont want any more down time!
Thanks for the help!
God Bless Ya!
OK, are you talking about the losi shim that goes between the oring and the flat washer?

One thought, make sure you dont have screws poking through your gear case, I seen this more than once, a guy at our local tracks truck was screaming and grinding around the track one day, he asked me if that was normal, I told him Id take a look at it, because it seemed very loud... He had just installed the aluminum upper brace, and stainless screws... I un screwed the screws a little and it quieted down a lot, but he also put the wrong screws in the rear body mounts, I ended up taking it all apart, and cutting the plastic inside the case with a razer blade because it was sticking out inside the case after the screws poked through... It didnt harm anything else, and hes still running the same diffs...
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:08 AM   #2914
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I guess. With the shims. Ive been in the hobby abour a year and a half now and still picking up things here and there. I was told I should shim the diffs while Im in there. Theres no play on the outdrives, so Im not shure its needed. I doubt the screws are through the case. Ive never had to rebuild it since Ive owned it. Havent broke a single part! Other than this noise its been a tank and very reliable for me. But I know what your saying. When I rebuilt my Mini Revo VXL I got a few screws mixed up and had this happin. Since I installed the optional center diff the rear wheels wouldnt spin. I had to tear it back down and clean that up. But with the shims, Losi shims(Im not shure) is that what I need? Again..Ive never had to shim diffs. Needin help there.
Again,
Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:33 PM   #2915
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I can't believe no new entries on this thread in the last 3 days. The Hyper 10TT class is growing each day in San Diego. We raced at SDRC last night and we had 11 entries. What a fun class???? Come check us out on Wednesday (7pm), Friday (7pm) or Saturday (4pm).

There's even a ProShop in the building. You break it, go buy the part and you are back in the race. Nice!!!!

Is anyone else running a MMPro and Tekin 4.5T in their rig? If so, what's your gearing? What motor and ESC are you running??

Any thoughts on running SC Tires on your rig. Some of the guys at SDRC are doing it and really liking how the rig handles. What are you experience??

Let's keep this thread alive folks.
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Old 06-10-2011, 03:46 AM   #2916
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Im running a MMP with the Castle SCT 4 pole 3800 motor. Runs great. InSaNe on 3s! Im running a HS5645MG for steering and it seems to be workin out for me. Still running stock shock oil. What weight is stock and whats everyone else running there?
OK guys, Ive said it before...Im about 18 months in this great hobby and Im makin my first dive into diff oils. I recently ordered some OFNA 5000 wt and 1000 wt. I planed on running 5/5/1. I went to my local shop (very limited stock) and bought Losi 30,000 wt (thought it was 3000 till I got home and looked closer) and AE 60,000 cst diff oil. My question is would one of these be better for the center diff? What does heavier oil do for it? Ive read that some people run 5/7/1, 5/7/2 or should I stick with 5/5/1? Im generally just bashing at the time being. I plan on getting to the track sooner or later this summer so kinda want the best all around set up here.
And how does the front diff weight affect steering? Again, the changing oil is all new to me.
Thanks for the help
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:53 AM   #2917
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Im running a MMP with the Castle SCT 4 pole 3800 motor. Runs great. InSaNe on 3s! Im running a HS5645MG for steering and it seems to be workin out for me. Still running stock shock oil. What weight is stock and whats everyone else running there?
OK guys, Ive said it before...Im about 18 months in this great hobby and Im makin my first dive into diff oils. I recently ordered some OFNA 5000 wt and 1000 wt. I planed on running 5/5/1. I went to my local shop (very limited stock) and bought Losi 30,000 wt (thought it was 3000 till I got home and looked closer) and AE 60,000 cst diff oil. My question is would one of these be better for the center diff? What does heavier oil do for it? Ive read that some people run 5/7/1, 5/7/2 or should I stick with 5/5/1? Im generally just bashing at the time being. I plan on getting to the track sooner or later this summer so kinda want the best all around set up here.
And how does the front diff weight affect steering? Again, the changing oil is all new to me.
Thanks for the help
Those heavier diff oils you purchased (30K "30,000wt", 60K "60,000wt) is what I use on my GT-8s (1/8 scale rigs). For this rig you don't need them, you need to use diff oil under 7K (7,000 wt) so that you diff can do what it's suppose to do, which is to balance/transfer the energy to your tires that are in contact with the road as your rig bounces around the track and especially when turning. As you use heavier diff oil, the diffs work less because they can't move as much so in essence you are locking your diffs the heavier oil you use.

If you are only going to bash, changing your diff oil isn't really necessary unless you have some alot of time to burn. It is time consuming but a good practice to get into.

I'm sure other can better explain but that should give you an idea. Good Luck!
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:07 PM   #2918
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Well, I need to get in there. The noise I mentioned above. And I hate when I hammer on it and the front wheels spin way faster than the rears. So, the 5-5-1 should be a good set up?
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Old 06-11-2011, 05:32 AM   #2919
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If anyone needs spares or bodies, I have some in the for sale section, thanks..
Hyper 10tt parts spare bodies hop ups FS
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Old 06-11-2011, 08:15 AM   #2920
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Guys,you should mention where you are using each setup.

I have 7k-locked-3k configuration.But it won't work for you.
(Since it's for wide on-road turns)
You are in the offroad forum, right?
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Old 06-11-2011, 08:39 AM   #2921
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Yes,but some ppl like running them on road.The on and off road is to identify the type of the car,the use is another story..
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Old 06-11-2011, 01:38 PM   #2922
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That's why there is a onroad forum, so you can talk about your onroad setup and not be confused with offroad.
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:03 PM   #2923
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Have you seen anyone posting in the on road forum a question about an off road truck?
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:23 PM   #2924
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Yes,but some ppl like running them on road.The on and off road is to identify the type of the car,the use is another story..
I agree. A set up was mentioned but it was stated he used it onroad. He is posting his Hyper set up in the Hyper TT section. I think it belongs here not On-road
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Old 06-11-2011, 03:10 PM   #2925
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Does any one know where is the place in Europe I can find it for the best price?
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