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Old 05-03-2011, 09:19 AM   #2746
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I am thinking of getting this. What is the best gearing for 2s sidewinder sct 3800kv system? Is a traxxas servo enough power?
I think it really dpends on your skill level and what you are gonna drive it on.....but for a starting set up a Traxxas 2075 and Castle SCT is plenty IMHO....unless you are running on a large 1/8 track then you may wany more top end....there have been alot of guys at my tack that overkilled the little guy....540 4.5t or 550 size motors almost all of them took them out...just waaay to much for our track.

I have a Traxxas 2075 servo in mine It was the only servo I had laying around when I got my TT, so I threw it in with the intention of replacing it ASAP....I have a new Savox servo waiting to go in, but the 2075 is working...a little slower than I usually like but it has been working well for me so I havnt bothered.


I also have the Castcle SCT 3800kv....I am running the stock a 13t pinion right now, it slightly under geared, all the torque in the world but no top end.....It works fine for my local track which is tight and tehnical but when I travel to another larger track, I need a little more top end..I just got a 14t & 15t to test at the larger track.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:30 AM   #2747
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front knuckles boil them for 20 min...
I boiled my front & rear knuckles and arms......I put the parts in the the pot in a basket with cold water, brought it up to a boil then set the timer for 30min, then shut off the heat and let the pot cool for 10 minutes, then removed the parts...I have not a broke anything yet after several weeks of hard racing, and some pretty spectacular crashes.

My buddy did his the same way and has had even more spectacular crashes and all he broke was the wing mount ( which he did not boil )...arms and knuckles survived.


After I boiled mine I talked to a guy at the local LHS that races alot of onroad stuff, he works for a plastic manufacturer as a chemical engineer.....he said to boil them for a minimum of 45 min......but mine has held up just fine
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:18 AM   #2748
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does boiling hardened the plastic or just makes it softer to prevent breaking?
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:29 AM   #2749
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about the castle sct 3800 system - with motor temps just over 110 (cheapo 2S pack and 15t pinion) on a typical "1/10 sized" track, i can't imagine needing any more power. still SUPER smooth on the bottom and throughout midrange, and enough top end to get by. the other TTs may catch you on the straight, but by the time they do, theres no more room and its time for the brakes to go back into the infield.........where you can just make tons of time w/the smoothness of the setup!!!! i'll never have a need for anything else other than this setup
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:31 AM   #2750
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Hi Guys a little of the topic

I have been running a Tekin R1 with a redline 540 5.5 for back yard bashing on a track we have made. The TT has run without fault, 3/5/1 in the diffs and 30 in the shocks all round, standard out of the box settings for everything else.

My mates Losi XXX4 with a NOVAK Ballistic 540 4.5 could still tear me a new one on the straights. This was not going to do
I have since put a Tekin RX8 with a redline 550 5.5 in the TT to solve this problem. It now eats the XXX4 on the straights but Iím now having real problems with the ride height and return speed on the springs.

I am assuming the additional weight is the problem. Has anyone with a similar setup had the same problem and if so how did you fix it????
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:34 AM   #2751
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Iím now having real problems with the ride height and return speed on the springs.

I am assuming the additional weight is the problem. Has anyone with a similar setup had the same problem and if so how did you fix it????
i'm using the white 1 hole pistons up front, and the black optional 2 hole pistons out back, stock springs and 30wt all around. so far, so VERY good
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:11 PM   #2752
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OK, I told a few guys I would try to take some pics and make some instructions on how to modify and use the STRC SCRT10 bellcrank assembly fit the 10tt.... Here it is sorry about the photography, I used my phone...
This is the LAST steering mod you will have to do to your TT... I did this 3 different ways before ending at this point and have tested it thoroughly... Its about $50 to do the complete mod and takes about an hour...

First you will need to buy the SCRT aluminum bellcrank assm. $28, 4 .125x.250" flanged bearings $4.60, 2- AE 9640 bolt sets $4, and that will get you through the bellcrank, if you want to do everything I do, then you will want the heim joints and ball sets ofna 30401 and 30411 and some long screws with loc-nuts {maybe 3x20mm}$7, and ball bearings for the other side which are 5x8x2.3mm $7. And you will also need a 1/4" drill bit and your regular tools...

So its pretty easy to get this done, First get your nice brand new shiny bellcrank assembly, and where the ackerman bolts go you will notice the bottom is a .250 hole and the top it around .120, you want to make it 1/4" all the way through, so start at the bottom and drill through... The set in my truck was done on my milling machine, and I understand not everyone has one, so I did my buddies set as if all I had was regular tools for this write up... I used blue tape, a pair of pliers and a small drill the results were were good, just had to use a razor blade to clean up the burrs... You will do both sides of the bellcrank....

Next fit the flanged ball bearings in the aluminum parts, if your bearings fit a little loose, all you have to do is get a piece of plastic {like clear baggy material} and press the bearing into the hole with the plastic over the hole, that will give you a tight fit...

Next get your ae bolt sets {you will only use the short bolts from each set} and inset them through the bearings. you will notice the threads start about 5.5mm from the bottom of the bearing, you will need to make a spacer for this, I used some round plastic I had and cut it with a razor blade to the correct size, it worked perfectly, but you can also use fuel tubing, a stack of washers, ect... just enough to keep the bolt from raising and or the bearing from falling, you want the bolt to tighten through the ackerman tightly and not be tight on the bearing, so it moves freely... The first time you screw the bolt through tht eackerman, put a little lube on it, and it will be a little tight to thread through, but it will work, the next time, add a little loctite, and install your spacer...

Nows a good time to install your other bearings on the posts and in the bell crank..
I fit this with the heim joint/ball assemblys to replace the stock setup, and while I was doing that, I marked the front gear case cover where the heim joints hit, then removed it all and did a little grinding to make sure I get as much movement through the steering as possible, you dont have to do this, because you may just end up setting your steering limits shorter than the actual movement, but its nice to have it there....

Now your pretty much done, throw it all back together, you should have a super smooth steering action with hardly any play.... I install the servo arm ball on the lower side of the servo save, as you can see in the pics, I have raced my truck for 3 weeks with this setup on it now, and it makes a noticable difference.... This and the shock mod will change the truck like you cant imagine..... good luck....

heres a pic setup and ready to drill
Hyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread-img00137.jpg

this is where you drill, notice on the table the other side all done with the bolt spacer and ackerman fastened together... you will have the rest of the bolts threads showing through the ackerman, you can but a little locnut on there if you like, I opt not to to save the weight, its not needed...
Hyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread-strc-scrt-10tt.jpg

Heres what it will look like, I now took the front gear case and marked it up to see where I had to grind... You can also see how nice and low the ackerman is now, its off of the chassis by far and under the front drive shaft, this works very well....

Hyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread-img00138-1-.jpg
Also here is a shot of my custom Carbon fiber upper plate and esc mount, I used 2 AE servo mounts bolted through the battery box, and machined a piece of cf the size of the rs pro to hold it lower than the body yet higher than the driveshaft, it worked very nice, except my upper plate covered the esc so I made a new one of them also, my own little design... I dont know how they expect people to mount esc's in these things..
Hyper TT 4wd 1/10th Truggy Thread-img00140.jpg
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:32 PM   #2753
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So with a 5.5 550can motor what gearing are guys using and how are the temps?
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:25 AM   #2754
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13tooth ..hottest Ive seen is around 130 im sure 15 would be fine for bigger track
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:52 AM   #2755
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Originally Posted by Imcaracer20 View Post
So with a 5.5 550can motor what gearing are guys using and how are the temps?
I have the 5.5 Tekin w/ a 14t pinion. Motor is warm at most.
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:53 AM   #2756
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Default tt for sale

got mine up for sale if you are interested.
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Old 05-08-2011, 01:34 PM   #2757
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Which parts do I need to convert the pivot suspension to jammin c-hubs?(part numbers)(I ask since I don't even know if I should change the diff cases or modify some parts)
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:00 PM   #2758
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How fun is it to drive an Hyper TT compaired to a 2wd stadium truck?
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:51 PM   #2759
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Mixed feelings about this, but:

Hyper10 TT, Hyper10 parts lot

If you're looking!
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Old 05-09-2011, 03:48 AM   #2760
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How fun is it to drive an Hyper TT compaired to a 2wd stadium truck?
I think the TT is one of the most fun trucks to bash and or race, they are very light, fast, and responsive. I race mine, but a freind of mine races and bashes, so I have taken his off some totally rediculous jumps, it launches nice...
The only area my ST is more fun is doing asphalt donuts, the tt will of course blow around a bunch of times, but the t4 is a donut machine.... But that gets old pretty fast, especially with tire being $40 a set....
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