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Old 04-26-2011, 03:02 AM   #2701
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Much better off going with these 2 orders...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVDG4&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWWW5&P=7
then use coupon code 010mf so the total will be $214.98

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAGUJ&P=7
the use coupon code 010md so the total will be $169.99

So the 2 orders will be the same price shipped {$384.}, but Id rather have the rs over the gtb anyday... The GTB is an $85 esc {and I cant seem to get used to the brakes, for some reason}...
Also make sure the 6.5 is rite for your track, Im between an 8.5 and 6.5, with the 6.5 it is FAST....

The sct is nice, and the 4 pole 3800 moves the tt around well, but for racing 10th scales I am sold on sensored...
If you just bash, than I would get a castle...
Also there is a lightly used ballistic 8.5 in the FS section for $57
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:13 AM   #2702
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Anyone running the TT with a RX8 & Ballistic 4.5 gearing recommendations ?
Also same speedo and a 5.5 SX4 gearing??
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:17 AM   #2703
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Anyone running the TT with a RX8 & Ballistic 4.5 gearing recommendations ?
Also same speedo and a 5.5 SX4 gearing??
15
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:04 AM   #2704
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Originally Posted by Toiffel View Post
Anyone running the TT with a RX8 & Ballistic 4.5 gearing recommendations ?
Also same speedo and a 5.5 SX4 gearing??
If your racing indoor at the barn try 12T pinion and randy's short course rx8 set up at teamtekin.com you might also like a 13T you can use a 14 and 15 but watch your heat. i would say 12-13 for tight track 14-15 for big track.
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:09 PM   #2705
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If anyone is interested in doing an STRC SCRT10 Aluminum bell-crank set in there tt, I think I finally got the best method figured out. The first way I did it used the 37220 bushings from the scrt, some bushings I machined for the bottom {because the ackerman plate needs to be under neath the diff drive}, then a 15mm screw to hold it all together, but the screw kept loosening up {never fell out, but I was constantly tightening it even with loctite. So I used a longer screw {all the way through the ackerman} with a locnut on the bottom backed against the ackerman, this worked well you need to leave it loose enough to still have free movement...
But I kept thinking I could get it to work "more better", so heres what I came up with...
First you need to drill out the bell crank parts where the ackerman bolts go to .250 {1/4"} they are already this size on the bottom, you just need that size all the way through to the top....
Next buy 2 AE 9650 sets {these come with 1 long bolt and 1 short in each package $3.80 for 2 packages, but you only need the short bolts}..
Then buy 4- flanged .125x.250 bearings {I had them, but rcboyz has them for $1 each}..
Next make your spacers, I made them .125 inner diameter, .2 outer and about 4mm long, these can be plastic, aluminum, stacked washers, brass, whatever you have....
Now put it all together the bearings go in each side of the aluminum then the short associated bolts {from the ae 9650 sets} go through the bell crank and bearings and bushing into the ackerman plate which will be comfortably over the chassis and under the drive...

After doing all of this, the steering is smoother and tighter than any other car I own {except maybe my 10l5 )
A friend of mine just ordered a tt and a ton of parts and Im going to build it for him this week end so I can take pics of me doing his if anyone wants them? He bought the truck, strc scrt bellcrank and parts needed, proline shocks and parts needed to install, aluminum diff pins, rear cvds, delrin spur, heim joints, and a bunch of cnc parts so hes going to have a really nice truck...
These 10tt's are a lot of fun, I think I enjoy modding it more than driving it...
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:05 PM   #2706
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Originally Posted by Toiffel View Post
Anyone running the TT with a RX8 & Ballistic 4.5 gearing recommendations ?
Also same speedo and a 5.5 SX4 gearing??
I would go with the 15 also, thats what I run.
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:04 PM   #2707
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Any reason why when I search for the Hyper 10TT on RcTech.net 90% of the results are for sale threads? Just wondering.
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:15 PM   #2708
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Alot of it is just that the classes not taking off in those peoples area.
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:19 PM   #2709
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Any reason why when I search for the Hyper 10TT on RcTech.net 90% of the results are for sale threads? Just wondering.
I see a few but there all the same trucks, most poeple try to get between $160-$200 for there used rollers, and you can buy the truck new shipped for $170 so it makes a tough sale... A fair price for a used tte with a couple hopups {like chassis braces, delrin diff, ect, say $75 of mods} is $170-$180 and for a stock used truck, with wiped out tires, scratchy body, scratchy chassis I would say $120-145...

I build buy and sell trucks often, I probably have $1100 tied up in my tt, but when I do sell it , Ill pull my driveline out and want way too much for my used roller too.... Except I use chassis covers, shock covers and cvd covers, plus I use stainless bolts so I can take apart and clean my truck frequently and not wear out the screws... I raced my T4 for 3 years replaced nothing except a front left arm here and there and a couple front shock towers... It looked brand new when I sold it, and I got an impressive amount for it... but if you do the math what chassis covers cost and cleaning it all the time, its cheaper to throw the truck away after 3 years....
Anyway got off track there, maybe some poeple just cant handle having such a fun to drive truck... Plus 10th scale truggy is a lot of indoor racing, summer is here and 1/8 off road is going to take the attention...
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:56 PM   #2710
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede View Post
Alot...
Quote:
Originally Posted by turb06le240 View Post
I see a few...
Thanks a lot for the input guys.
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Old 04-29-2011, 07:24 PM   #2711
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ive been a die hard electric fan for years, tried 8e for a while but nitro is where its at around me.....being that i still have roots in 1/10, i figured id run TT - the best r/c decision i ever made it handles, drives, tunes, etc. just like the 8s do and its pennies!!! bone stock (changed out pistons, and tire foams) chassis/wheels/tires with castle 3800 sct system and super fast savox servo all for 380ish shipped?! cant go wrong
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Old 04-30-2011, 09:10 AM   #2712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turb06le240 View Post
If anyone is interested in doing an STRC SCRT10 Aluminum bell-crank set in there tt, I think I finally got the best method figured out. The first way I did it used the 37220 bushings from the scrt, some bushings I machined for the bottom {because the ackerman plate needs to be under neath the diff drive}, then a 15mm screw to hold it all together, but the screw kept loosening up {never fell out, but I was constantly tightening it even with loctite. So I used a longer screw {all the way through the ackerman} with a locnut on the bottom backed against the ackerman, this worked well you need to leave it loose enough to still have free movement...
But I kept thinking I could get it to work "more better", so heres what I came up with...
First you need to drill out the bell crank parts where the ackerman bolts go to .250 {1/4"} they are already this size on the bottom, you just need that size all the way through to the top....
Next buy 2 AE 9650 sets {these come with 1 long bolt and 1 short in each package $3.80 for 2 packages, but you only need the short bolts}..
Then buy 4- flanged .125x.250 bearings {I had them, but rcboyz has them for $1 each}..
Next make your spacers, I made them .125 inner diameter, .2 outer and about 4mm long, these can be plastic, aluminum, stacked washers, brass, whatever you have....
Now put it all together the bearings go in each side of the aluminum then the short associated bolts {from the ae 9650 sets} go through the bell crank and bearings and bushing into the ackerman plate which will be comfortably over the chassis and under the drive...

After doing all of this, the steering is smoother and tighter than any other car I own {except maybe my 10l5 )
A friend of mine just ordered a tt and a ton of parts and Im going to build it for him this week end so I can take pics of me doing his if anyone wants them? He bought the truck, strc scrt bellcrank and parts needed, proline shocks and parts needed to install, aluminum diff pins, rear cvds, delrin spur, heim joints, and a bunch of cnc parts so hes going to have a really nice truck...
These 10tt's are a lot of fun, I think I enjoy modding it more than driving it...
I'd be interested in a tutorial with pictures
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Old 04-30-2011, 02:06 PM   #2713
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Angry It broke again

Since the weather was nice, I decided to take the TT to the local park. After about 10 minutes, and one tumble...

It broke in the exact same place as last time!

What gives?

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Old 04-30-2011, 03:19 PM   #2714
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Originally Posted by Slash65 View Post
Since the weather was nice, I decided to take the TT to the local park. After about 10 minutes, and one tumble...

It broke in the exact same place as last time!

What gives?

Did you actually break something or did it just come apart? Happened on ours as well....smacked into a curb, came all apart, didnt break anything but lost one of the plastic bushings where the pin goes into. So for a 20 cent piece, it sits till we get the hinge pin bushing kit.

Decided to order the STRC front plate as well (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...late-Gun-Metal)
and see if that doesnt fix the problem. If not, its going up for sale and my little guy can take over the Losi Truggy or Ofna buggy.
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:18 PM   #2715
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Slash65 strc top plate is a must..
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