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Old 04-17-2011, 02:09 AM   #2641
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Yeah,your point is?
Oh nothing. You have the best 2S lipo money can buy.

There. Feel better?
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Old 04-17-2011, 05:27 AM   #2642
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OK, if these questions have already been asked Im sorry. Theres almost 200 pages on this thread. Whats a good shock oil for this truck? I generally bash it around the neighborhood. Street, grass, dirt, gravel. Second. The truggy is almost new. The things drivetrain is very noisy. Ive read its normal. But how can I quiet it down a little? Im leaving for vacation tonight. I wanna take it, so a quick response would be great. I wanna tear it down before I leave. I cant take all my greases, oil, tools, etc with me. It all needs to fit in my track bag.
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:02 AM   #2643
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i used 30wt all the way around, and drilled out the holes (stock pistons) maybe 2x original size and it seems to work awesome. 5-5-2 in the diffs, and that seems like a good start too

can't do anything about the whine from all the diffs, but then again that's what lets ppl know you are rippin a TT around the track
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Old 04-17-2011, 06:22 AM   #2644
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OK, if these questions have already been asked Im sorry. Theres almost 200 pages on this thread. Whats a good shock oil for this truck? I generally bash it around the neighborhood. Street, grass, dirt, gravel. Second. The truggy is almost new. The things drivetrain is very noisy. Ive read its normal. But how can I quiet it down a little? Im leaving for vacation tonight. I wanna take it, so a quick response would be great. I wanna tear it down before I leave. I cant take all my greases, oil, tools, etc with me. It all needs to fit in my track bag.
For bashing, I imagine 35 weight front and rear would be OK, the trucks I use for bashing usually get what ever remnants I have in the bottom of the bottles (most of the time, when I change the fluid from my racing shocks I save it for the bashers ...

As far as the diffs go, I have a system for building them, the problem is they all come different from the factory so its kind of a touch and feel method but heres what I do...
First disassemble and clean the entire assembly.
Next and most important is installing the drive cups into the diff case , crown gears, and pinion gear.
First step is to polish the thin washer that goes between the oring and the pin, I rub them on a piece of emry cloth until all the paint is gone, then hit them with some 1000 grit wet sand paper... there will be 6 to do total..

Next I fit the cups into the diff case, crown gear, and spur with the oring in place {dry}, and slide the pin after the polished washer, now feel the resistance it has, if its tight, take it apart and I rub the face of the crown, spur gear or diff case on the emry cloth a few times and then refit, untill I have it nice and smooth not loose, but hardly any resistance to turning the drive cup.... If there loose from the factory I install a shim in between the drive cup and the crown, spur gear or diff case.... After you get the correct fit, put some grease {I use Dow Corning "Molycoat" 55 silicone} on the o-ring and assemble all 6 units...

Now for the bevel gears I use the OFNA aluminum diff pins {there only $9 and polish up like a mirror}, but you can use the 1000 grit sand paper and just smooth out your diff pins, then roll it up and insert it in the small bevel gears and smooth in there out a little bit, now coat them with your diff fluid and assemble the cross...

Almost done, put the cross into the diff case, and fill it with your diff fluid.

Next is fitting the crown, spur, bevel gear to the diff case, insert 1 gasket and hold it together tightly, now spin the drives, if it feels loose and there is a little movement you only need one gasket, if its tight and whines a little, then use 2 gaskets, If its too loose then I use the emry cloth again to take the diff case surface down a little... I coat the gaskets with gasket shellak {Indian Head}. and then finish off but tightening the top down small amounts at a time in a criss cross pattern until its snugged up....

Now for the gear box, install the bearings with a light oil {I use liquid bearings}, and fit your drive cup and gear assembly, snug and smooth... Next add some grease to the gear {I use white lithium}, now add some grease to the crown gear and install the diff into the gear box... Last you are going to make sure it fits smooth, Its rare but sometimes you have to adjust how the 2 halves go together, either by sanding them or making a paper gasket {ive only had 1 I had to do with the gasket, and a couple Ive sanded, but Ive built A LOT of diffs.... For the center diff fit it into the mount and your done...

That will give you a SUPER SILKY SMOOTH diff assembly, believe me it makes a difference...
I use...
-Indian head gasket shellak on the gaskets
-Lubramatic green biobased white lithium grease {stuff is awesome and wont harm plastics} on the crown gear {not in the diff, just in the gear box}
-Dow Corning "Molycoat" 55 (silicone) on the small o-rings...
-Liquid bearings {its hard to find the real stuff, but awesome lube for bearings}
-then loctite on the screws {sometimes}

So there it is, if you follow my instructions and have a good feel, they will be smooth, last forever, and have hardly any rotating mass drag....
The total cost is probably around $35 to do everything that includes the aluminum diff pins, the oils, sandpaper, shelak, extra gaskets, fluids and a STRC delrin spur gear.. But be prepared to spend a half hour on each to get them perfect...
I have built these for a lot of guys, I did a set for a friend of mine, then he let his son have his truck and bought a new one, he transferred his electronics into the new truck, and he ended up having to change the gearing because it was getting too hot, I rebuilt his brand new diffs, and he was able to go back to his original gearing...
Good luck...
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:09 AM   #2645
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WOW, I think that will have to wait till I get home! I cant get finished packing and get into that! lol.. But thank you so very much. Both of you guys for responding so quickly. And thank you for the very detailed response. I will make that my prodgect when I get home. One more question..
I bought a new Sidewinder SCT combo for it. Ive read several people are running this set up with success. I plan on pickin up something with a 550 intime, but it came with a VXL combo but the ESC button in malfunctioning, so I nee to sent it back to TRX w/ $50 and get a new one. But for $109 at the LHS it seemed like a quick replacement for now. But I read that you can run 3s with this combo in light trucks. Do you think a stock weight Hyper is too heavy for 3s? It does rip it up on 2s, but I need a little more. But I cant gear it up. I only have one pinion thats mod1 with the smaller hole and no shops here sell them. I'll have to order it. It has a 13t in it now.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:20 AM   #2646
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WOW, I think that will have to wait till I get home! I cant get finished packing and get into that! lol.. But thank you so very much. Both of you guys for responding so quickly. And thank you for the very detailed response. I will make that my prodgect when I get home. One more question..
I bought a new Sidewinder SCT combo for it. Ive read several people are running this set up with success. I plan on pickin up something with a 550 intime, but it came with a VXL combo but the ESC button in malfunctioning, so I nee to sent it back to TRX w/ $50 and get a new one. But for $109 at the LHS it seemed like a quick replacement for now. But I read that you can run 3s with this combo in light trucks. Do you think a stock weight Hyper is too heavy for 3s? It does rip it up on 2s, but I need a little more. But I cant gear it up. I only have one pinion thats mod1 with the smaller hole and no shops here sell them. I'll have to order it. It has a 13t in it now.
Do you really need more than a 2s? going fast is nice, but with a 3s you are going to be breaking all the time, the E line is going to run hotter, the truck is going to take a beating, and you will probably in the long run have less fun and spend more money... Just what I learned on my own after spending money... My sons wanted to go 3s in his t4.1 because his buddy ran them in his rustler... It didnt take long for him to figure out, his freinds truck was frying motors in the grass, always smashing into stuff and breaking chassis parts and way slower around the track... Just something to think about, a properly geared motor with a good battery is where I would start...
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:40 AM   #2647
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Is anyone running different shocks that work well?
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:00 AM   #2648
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wow, that's a lot of diff work

i also run the castle SCT setup with a 15 tooth pinion on a weak 2s pack (4000mah, 20c). i really like this setup, it's VERY smooth
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:08 AM   #2649
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Is anyone running different shocks that work well?
I have came up with a good combo, but its expensive..
Proline powerstroke big bores, the shocks are the best available, IMO, but by the time you buy the shocks, spring kit, oil, and the parts you need to install them, it will cost you around $130... I love the dual rate, for small consecutive jumps, they work great and you cant tell the difference on the big jumps, but some people dont like them, you can get single stage springs from proline, but AE springs fit also.... Try the 2 stage, you wont be dissapointed...

Heres what I did , I bought front and rear for the SC trucks from tower then a set of lunsford titanium shock mounts for a T4, and a set of AE long shank shock bushings {I tryed both long and std, the stds will work in the rear but the fronts need long, so just get a set of longs and use the 4}. You can save money by buying the plastic ae bushings, and just nuts and bolts, or proline sells a kit for $10, but I tend to over due things, anything worth doing is worth overdoing I always say, as you can probably tell by my long replys to questions, sorry...

Now the prolines are a little longer than the TT shocks so, I disassembled them, and added some spacers I made {simple- 5mm solid round plastic , cut them to size and drill a 3.5mm hole through the center, although fuel tubing would work, but need to be changed once and a while but its softer, Im on the fence between a soft spacer and a hard spacer, so I went hard for now}. I added 6mm in the front and 4.5mm in the rear {you can use AE # 9602 spacers and file them down to size, I just had the plastic in my box}. Now they are the same exact length as the stock shocks...

Next the stock bottom balls from your shocks need to be intalled into the new shocks, easy...

Next install the t4 ti mounts on the shock towers with the nut part towards the shock, then install the shock bushings, and then install the shocks... {the bushings need a little machine work all of which you can do with a couple drill bits, and a file. first drill the threads out of them {wrap the bushing in tape, put it in a vise or just hold it with a pair of pliers and drill through the center so it slips over the mounts, next use a file to file the surface face the the shock goes over down about 3mm, pretty much to the ball}

Now on the bottom of the shock where it meets the arm, turn the bottom spring keepers slot towards the arm, and mark the arm where it hits, then file the arm down a tiny bit where it has that raised section {maybe 2mm, you can get away with out doing this, but I like how it turned out when it was done, I used a small hand file, it took 15 seconds..}, you only have to do the front 2 arms, the rears clear fine....

Thats it, now just find a fluid weight you like, and a spring that matches your driving and track...

These shocks, react well, and are awesome, 3.5mm shafts....SWEET.....

1 more thing, because of the spacer, make sure you get all the air out, it took a little extra attention maybe 20 seconds a shock...

Keep in mind I tryed the new AE t4.1 shocks, I got the size rite by trying different bodies and shafts until they were rite, but these work much better, also a set of aluminum ebay shocks with longer eye on the rear but them were weak, leaky and squeeky... The AE shocks will cost more, and arent as nice...
Good luck, and again I am sorry for the long post, but I suffer from obsessive compulsive disorder and tend to never be done with things like this....
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:36 PM   #2650
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New lid mounted up.



Haven't stickered it yet, almost a shame to.
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Old 04-18-2011, 03:42 AM   #2651
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New lid mounted up.

Haven't stickered it yet, almost a shame to.
Did you do the paint? Looks sick...
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:27 AM   #2652
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What's a good gear to start, with a Havoc Pro SC 4.5 ?
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:51 PM   #2653
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What's a good gear to start, with a Havoc Pro SC 4.5 ?
A friend of mine has a 4.5 550 {tekin esc} he runs 19t, his truck is silly fast, but he has a hard time controlling, it, I cant stand driving his truck, but he does wheelie down the entire straight portion of our track... I know someone on here has a similar setup to you, and uses an 18t..
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Old 04-18-2011, 05:11 PM   #2654
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Did you do the paint? Looks sick...
Hell no, I couldn't paint my way out of an awkward situation.

Jim Myers, Winning Edge Designs (www.wedjim.com).
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:01 PM   #2655
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A friend of mine has a 4.5 550 {tekin esc} he runs 19t, his truck is silly fast, but he has a hard time controlling, it, I cant stand driving his truck, but he does wheelie down the entire straight portion of our track... I know someone on here has a similar setup to you, and uses an 18t..
Wow 18 and 19 ??? I thought something like that would fry the esc for sure!!!!
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