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Old 04-15-2011, 09:47 AM   #2626
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Ive seen guys running 1/8 scale buggy tires on the TT.

Is it worth doing the conversion? Is there any noticable performance difference; better or worse?

Or should i just stick with regular 2.2 wheels and tires?
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:30 PM   #2627
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Originally Posted by turb06le240 View Post
Hey guys, Im going to start the ultimate 10tt build, any ideas for hop ups, heres the ideas I have so far...

Starting with a Bump lightened chassis

-STRC-
Delrin spur
CNC Hex adapters
Graphite center upper plate
CNC stand offs
CNC front steering plate
CNC center diff bulkhead
CNC RR carriers
scrt10 bulkhead complete

-SNR-
Graphite servo plate
Graphite shock towers front and rear
Graphite lower plate

-Lunsford-
Titanium shock mounts
Front and rear turnbuckles
Servo to saver turnbuckle

Proline powerstroke shocks
AE long shock bushings
Elite RC motor mount
CVDs in the rear
SS screws
CNC Chassis braces front and rear
CNC Hinge plates all 4
Aluminum diff pins
DE skid plates
downforce black wing

Plus Im going to put bearings in the front steering, and install 6mm balls with screws through them on the front turnbuckle assemblies {also I'll use the entrie scrt bellcrank set up, I made bushing/spacers that fit in the bottom and lower the ackerman bar to clear the drive cup, it makes the front end silly smooth.

And I had to do a lot of playing around with the shocks to figure out the best way to build them for the tt, but the finished product turned out perfect and simple... {now I can do it in 20 minutes, but it costs a little over $100 to do it correctly...

The diffs, were easy, Ive done them a bunch of times, I coat the gaskets with indian head and double them up {the diffs are a little tight with one gasket when there new}, then I polish the thin washer that goes between the pin and oring, and fit the case with the drive cup by machining the rear face of the case {where the bearing sits} a small bit, kind of a touch and feel until its rite, taking off very small amounts at a time...and lastly I used 5000 weight in the rear and center and 1000 in the front... The diffs are super quiet and smooth...

Well, thats where I am so far, I got the shocks set up {tryed them on a friends tt for a weekend}, 3 brand new diffs built, and the steering done}, let me know if there is anything you can think of that I missed...



Almost done, the last parts come on Monday!!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:37 PM   #2628
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You should buy the SNR graphite chassi...Very light..
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:58 PM   #2629
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You should buy the SNR graphite chassi...Very light..
I went with the bump because I dont like the single graphite chassis, ussually graphite is good for upper and lower, I just dont want to end up with a broken lightweight chassis.... The bottom of these chassis take a beating, the aluminum will hold up better, also I did the math, the graphite is only 68g less than the bump chassis thats only a little over 2oz's, the price difference is also a factor $140 vs $70.. My brother really wanted my to go with the graphite, but I went with the bump...
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:04 PM   #2630
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Cool..I ran graphite chassis off an on for 24 yrs.with no problem with no chassi protector.someone now makes chassi protectors for the bottom of the chassi..all you need to do is epoxy the edges of a carbon chassi and your good to go...
I do understand the cost factor,the carbon chassis is a bit pricey..
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:09 PM   #2631
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Cool..I ran graphite chassis off an on for 24 yrs.with no problem with no chassi protector.someone now makes chassi protectors for the bottom of the chassi..all you need to do is epoxy the edges of a carbon chassi and your good to go...
I do understand the cost factor,the carbon chassis is a bit pricey..
Yah my BJ4 was a tank, and I had the sticky chassis protector on it, but it still ended up scratched up... When I first got into the hobby, I bought a rc10t and added an oval graphite chassis {single plate} I sealed it with super glue and the track we ran on didnt have a ton of heavy jumps, but about 3 months after I installed it, I wrecked and cracked the chassis, now Ive wrecked with my BJ4 when I had it, much worse and never harmed the chassis {front shock towers are another story lol, but the chassis held up, I hink its because of the upper and lower design, vs one plate with no triangulation....
Also now if you think about it that sticky chassis probably weighs 2 oz's, there goes the savings, and they cost like $13....
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:15 PM   #2632
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What ESC/motor are you going with?
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:23 PM   #2633
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What ESC/motor are you going with?
Im thinking Tekin RS with a Novak 550/6.5, but for now Ill throw either a mamba or reddy and sc450bl in it, since I have a few brand new ones hanging around
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:47 PM   #2634
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I rum a Tekin RS and a LRP 6.5 with a 11p,I do wheelies down a 100ft straight.
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:49 PM   #2635
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I rum a Tekin RS and a LRP 6.5 with a 11p,I do wheelies down a 100ft straight.
Which lrp motor is it?
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:25 PM   #2636
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540-X-12 vector,comes in after 8 mins.@ 135
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Old 04-16-2011, 05:17 AM   #2637
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What are you running for a battery, I would prefer a 540 size motor... What pinion are you running?
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Old 04-16-2011, 07:11 AM   #2638
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11p--maxamps 2c 6500 150 c rating=monster power!!!
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:56 PM   #2639
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11p--maxamps 2c 6500 150 c rating=monster power!!!
Yep, 150C.
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Old 04-16-2011, 10:58 PM   #2640
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Yep, 150C.
Yeah,your point is?
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