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Old 02-22-2011, 11:45 AM   #2251
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Originally Posted by snrscion View Post
Well thank you, I also make Chassis and center lower brace too for the truck.
You make a carbon chassis for the truck? How much?
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:49 AM   #2252
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Very nice towers I must add! The extra camber holes really helped dial the truck in. Sorry for the 5mm pinion I thought there was a 13t 3mm included in the bag that had the stock spur gear in it? Let me know I will get you one on the way if I have it. Scott
Hey Scott,
Ya I looked in both bags last night and the only gears I found were the blue spur gear and the 5mm 14t pinion (no set screw). If you have 3mm pinion that'd be great.
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Old 02-22-2011, 12:49 PM   #2253
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Hi
is this durable probably come up before but i fter 30 pages my eyes get tired.i do not really race. i also read that if you boil some of the parts is make it more durable
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Old 02-22-2011, 12:55 PM   #2254
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Durable for what? It's not a great basher by any stretch. You'd be better off with a short course truck or a monster truck.

For racing it's reasonably durable but some people have had issues with breakage.
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Old 02-22-2011, 02:37 PM   #2255
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Durable for what? It's not a great basher by any stretch. You'd be better off with a short course truck or a monster truck.

For racing it's reasonably durable but some people have had issues with breakage.
I have to slightly alter my opinion on this truck: At 1st i found it very durable and sometimes it takes huge hits and just keeps on ticking, but lately I have been having more issues. It always breaks lately when raced against other overpowered tt's and the steering knuckles are a big weak point, the shock "holder" broke off. The nose diving is awful, mainly on small jumps, on larger ones easier to correct without missing the next turn. Furthermore the durango buggies at my track take much more abuse and drive circles around me... But Im looking forward to use it on a larger outdoor track, thatll be fun!
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:01 PM   #2256
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There's so much driveline drag it's like having a lot of drag brake.

On small jumps you can't let off the throttle, you have to keep a small amount of steady throttle over them.
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:12 PM   #2257
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There's so much driveline drag it's like having a lot of drag brake.

On small jumps you can't let off the throttle, you have to keep a small amount of steady throttle over them.
yep, unfortunately right after our small jump which is medium speed theres a hairpin, so if i fly level i miss the breaking point, so mostly i must nose dive to get the turn, at the beginning that made a lot of cartwheels.... You get used to it but as soon as i switch cars for a run i hate getting back to the tt for its jump characteristics.
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:12 PM   #2258
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There's so much driveline drag it's like having a lot of drag brake.

On small jumps you can't let off the throttle, you have to keep a small amount of steady throttle over them.
i have no drag in my drivetrain whatsoever. A guy at the track this weekend was having problems like this and his pinion to spur gear mesh was way to tight. iI set his gear mesh and it was butter. also will quiet it down a bit if its noisey.
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:19 PM   #2259
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I don't have any unnecessary drag (my mesh is fine), just the driveline itself isn't very smooth or efficient (compared to say a 1/10th scale 4wd buggy).

So if you roll jumps and let off the throttle in the air, you nose dive worse than usual.
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:38 PM   #2260
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Have to Agree here..the driveline drag is much like 1/8th scale....push contol, if you have Hotwire, or keep the throttle light while clearing the jump, will keep the nose up.

This thing is a blast...and as far as durability goes...I think it is pretty tough. I am not the best of drivers out there and have smacked it into just about everything once, and have not broke a thing....Knock..knock
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Old 02-22-2011, 03:58 PM   #2261
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I beat the crap out of mine and finally broke a rear arm. My 12 year old beat his worse and didn't break a thing. It's all in how you hit, I mean land. Nose diving is bad. I added the strc aluminum rear knuckles and that helped a little. I think I am going to put the graphite front shock tower on it next to lighten up the front a little bit more.
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Old 02-22-2011, 05:25 PM   #2262
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everything breaks when racing. but something about this TT makes me smile when i drive it! Everytime.
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Old 02-22-2011, 11:58 PM   #2263
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I put a pair of T-Bone Racing bumpers on my LX1-E and I think I'm gonna add them to the TT as well. Considering its going to be driven by a 9 yr old, I'm thinking it'll be a worthwhile investment.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:01 AM   #2264
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The t-bone bumper just plain looks better than the stock bumper anyhow. The stock one is so close to the body.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:34 AM   #2265
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when out tonight and broke a rear a arm and front steering knuckle, I suck at life . Oh and almost fried my brand new motor and esc all in the same night.

Maybe someone can help diagnose my problems with my current set up:
Novak Ballistic 550 4.5T
Speed Passion GT Pro 2.0
16T
Turnigy 5000mah 2S1P 20C

So tonight I ran the truck for the second time on the new motor/esc set up and after maybe 5 warm up laps the motor is like 200*F (yikes!) and the esc is around 115*F.

So I drop down to a 13T and add a castle fan to the motor run it for another 5 laps. Car feels nice at this point then of course I hit a jump, land on a pipe and break the steering knuckle (thank god). Pulled the car off the track and temped it: motor was ~100*F but then the ESC shot up to ~160* (double yikes!) Then I come to realize the fan on the ESC isn't working and smells fried?

What the hell is going on with all this heat!? Im starting to think my batteries aren't suitable for the job being rated at only 20C. Does this sound logical?? And why did the fan go out? the ESC is brand new, is it a fluke??
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