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Old 02-08-2011, 11:24 AM   #2056
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yeah, the body and large bumpers on the 10SC make a huge difference in parts breakage from what I have seen locally.
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:28 PM   #2057
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Originally Posted by justbeastit View Post
Well, since they won't let us run with 1/10 4wd buggy at our track...I've decided to see what kind of fun I could have onroad - speed runs and drag racing. After swapping out a bunch of pieces and parts and throwing a 4 cell on this thing this is what I'm left with These things are so much fun. I can't wait to throw a 6 cell on it. After almost 15 min of nonstop full throttle passes, the motor was 108 degrees and the battery was barely half drained. Can't wait to bring this out to the drags this spring/summer. Vids coming soon!
How do you like that Trackstar esc... Ive been eyeing it for some time now! Ahh wait, dont answer that. I just saw that someone else already asked it!! Sorry people
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Why doesnt anyone makeing desert buggy cage/body's or do I have to fab my own :/
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:41 PM   #2058
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forgot to mention, the motor has 15 degrees of timing already on it, the end bell i mean, would that cause high temps?
but i asked this before and one of the novak guys on this forum said not to change the timing on the motor, just the esc settings

anyway, i have a motor fan coming in the mail, sooo yeah, should have ordered a temp gun with it...
too much motor timing will add heat in a hurry. I run my motors with low timing on the motor and ESC (RS PRO) and use boost and turbo to make the power. Try turning the motor timing as far down as you can and run it again, then temp it. I'm sure someone at the track has a temp gun..just ask around.

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Old 02-08-2011, 12:43 PM   #2059
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Has anyone else boiled parts before?! Ive got some new rear hub carriers coming plus a few extra and id like to prolong their life any way I can. And while were all on the topic of breaking things, I also broke a rear stub axle along with the hub carrier. Both from landing on the PVC at my local indoor. Its a narrow track for the size of jumps it offers so if you're off just a little chances are good you'll smack the pvc. But other than that ive landed hard on flats, cart wheeled and landed flat on my back and broke nothing. I think the big problem is that this is a pretty heavy truck for the wimpy 1/10 size hub/axle parts. These parts just need to be burlier.
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:39 PM   #2060
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too much motor timing will add heat in a hurry. I run my motors with low timing on the motor and ESC (RS PRO) and use boost and turbo to make the power. Try turning the motor timing as far down as you can and run it again, then temp it. I'm sure someone at the track has a temp gun..just ask around.

Mike
righto, I'll take the timing out of the motor as well see if that helps, already have the esc settings as low as possible or off. hopefully some one has a temp gun at the track today
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Old 02-08-2011, 02:41 PM   #2061
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It's been a while since I poped one out and that was my fault. I ran at Hot Rods last Sat. and the cross over jump is not straight so you either have to jump short and drive around the bend or just launch it over the pipes for a really fast lap and flat land at high speed. The thing I broke was my fan, I clipped short course trucks on the high speed corner caught the board off the small quad and had a couple of lawndarts trying to make my jumps look graceful. I think what you have to do is turn down some of your dual rate and not have so much full clocked steering even with the servo saver spring there's no give off the knuckle. I turn mine down 5 to 7 clicks from full turn. Try that it should help
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:00 PM   #2062
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and when these break it seems the cvd likes to bend as well How bad is it to drive with a slightly bent cvd?
arrggg! that's the other thing i hate about this truck, the CVA's always bend when the knuckles snap, mine are slightly bent, but just ever so slightly, i bring a hammer and a small piece of sheet steel along to the track now to hammer them flat again when they bend... if is just slightly bent then i don't think it matters but i guess its better to keep vibration to a minimum
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:42 PM   #2063
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How are your brakes on this TT? I've just finished setting up the Hyper with a Castle MM and 4600Kv motor. Trying to stop this thing just in the house is almost non-existent. What am I missing? Transmitter or ESC settings?
Spektrum DX2.0 just fyi.
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:44 PM   #2064
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there seems to always be one really "smart guy" in the group......
don't forget the token mexican...lol
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:34 PM   #2065
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Ok help me out real quick guys. I got the rtr in the mail, but I'm pretty sure it will be quite underpowered. I have read this entire thread over the last day or so and have a pretty good idea on what to do set up wise. I know as soon as I have the coin there will be a new powerplant in this thing, have read many opinions on this too. I would like to be different though, would the speedpassion silver arrow 3.5t be good in this truck. The closest track is large, outdoor, and fast. We mostly run my a friends house we whore all the grass down into a huge flat oval. He is running a slash4x4 on 3s with the "traxxas high speed pinion". I would love to out run him in the LONG straights and out drive him in the turns. I think I picked the right truck to do it, just need help on motors, and what esc should I run with the 3.5t? Thanks for any help!

^^^ come on guys ... Anything???
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:56 PM   #2066
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^^^ come on guys ... Anything???
I tried that 3.5 silver arrow in my hyper sc, its going to need a very powerful esc, my vxl on 2 cell lipo would thermal within minutes even with 9 tooth pinion, I think tekin rx8 might handle that motor, its overkill for the tt though. My tt runs great with a 7 turn duo 3 and vxl on 2 cell. 540 motors seem fine for this truck, IMO.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:41 PM   #2067
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Originally Posted by LDOstrem View Post
Has anyone else boiled parts before?! Ive got some new rear hub carriers coming plus a few extra and id like to prolong their life any way I can. And while were all on the topic of breaking things, I also broke a rear stub axle along with the hub carrier. Both from landing on the PVC at my local indoor. Its a narrow track for the size of jumps it offers so if you're off just a little chances are good you'll smack the pvc. But other than that ive landed hard on flats, cart wheeled and landed flat on my back and broke nothing. I think the big problem is that this is a pretty heavy truck for the wimpy 1/10 size hub/axle parts. These parts just need to be burlier.
YES! I disassembled all of my suspension parts off the truck and boiled them all for 30 min at a rolling boil. Haven't broken anything since and I've beat the crap outta this truggy.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:54 PM   #2068
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Try boiling them for 30min at a rolling boil. It makes them a little more flexible.
I will give that a try, Thanks!


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Haha i do race every weekend. What happened here? Iwasnt tring to be rude about this its the truth. Maybe you should give the full story that it broke off just landing a jump (Which i really doubt) I have cartwheeled mine and put it through hell n the track. it was probably cracked and a hard landing pulled it out. THERE IS NO FIX FOR THIS!!!!!!. Buy extra knuckles. I can only hope to be as cool as joe one day
Well maybe you should try asking questions instead of being a smart A$$.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:18 PM   #2069
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I will give that a try, Thanks!




Well maybe you should try asking questions instead of being a smart A$$.
i wasnt being a smart a$$ but maybe you should give the whole story when you post stuff like that. I appoligize if i was rude i was just being honest knuckles break wether you wanna belive it or not it happens, its a weak spot.
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Old 02-08-2011, 08:28 PM   #2070
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...So...has anyone tried to attach the C hub front end from a Jammin 1/10th scale SCT?

and if I should boil the plastic (it used to work well on old plastic propellers too), should I first salt the water or maybe a little olive oil and garlic?
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