Associated Slipper Adjustment help (wont tighten up)
#1
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Associated Slipper Adjustment help (wont tighten up)
Haven't built an AE truck in years. Built FT SC10. 2s lipo, MMP and a Ballistic 13.5 geared as recommended in the manual with a 21/84.
Just going over all the final adjustments and seem to have a slipper issue. Or a lack of knowledge I should say.
How easily should it slip? The trick of holding the tires and bliping the throttle should do what exactly? Should the front wheels come off the ground?
I started where it said with .5mm exposed. Seemed really loose. Holding tire trick front of truck barley tried to move.
ALL the way tight, as in, as tight as I could get it with with that little plastic nut driver. I had several mm of thread showing past the nut (just to test and see) and it still slips and the tires do NOT come off the ground. It's more noticeable movement of the front end, it lifts to where the front end is fully drooped out but it does not come off the ground.
That's a huge range of "tightness" on that nut, I expected the slipper to lock up and let the front wheels whip up off the ground. Not even close. I tested the truck on super high traction carpet and when adjusted per the manual it's def way too loose, slips like crazy before hooking up.
Any help is appreciated.
Just going over all the final adjustments and seem to have a slipper issue. Or a lack of knowledge I should say.
How easily should it slip? The trick of holding the tires and bliping the throttle should do what exactly? Should the front wheels come off the ground?
I started where it said with .5mm exposed. Seemed really loose. Holding tire trick front of truck barley tried to move.
ALL the way tight, as in, as tight as I could get it with with that little plastic nut driver. I had several mm of thread showing past the nut (just to test and see) and it still slips and the tires do NOT come off the ground. It's more noticeable movement of the front end, it lifts to where the front end is fully drooped out but it does not come off the ground.
That's a huge range of "tightness" on that nut, I expected the slipper to lock up and let the front wheels whip up off the ground. Not even close. I tested the truck on super high traction carpet and when adjusted per the manual it's def way too loose, slips like crazy before hooking up.
Any help is appreciated.
#2
Tech Champion
Are you sure it's not the diff that's slipping?
#3
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Yes, I can see that the nut is not spinning on the slipper.
Diff feels perfect. Broke it in, reset it to 1/8 turn out and it's money.
Definitely something with the slipper. Can you offer any other info in regards to my questions? Should the wheels be coming off the ground?
Diff feels perfect. Broke it in, reset it to 1/8 turn out and it's money.
Definitely something with the slipper. Can you offer any other info in regards to my questions? Should the wheels be coming off the ground?
#4
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (520)
I have never checked my slipper that way, but it woks for some. Is it possible that the pads got a little grease on them? had that happen before..I usually throw it on the track and listen for the whizzing sound, if it whizzes for a long time coming out of a turn, needs to be tightened--short time and you can make all the obstacles--Money..
#5
AE Is Killer Of All......
The New Slipper V2 Is very Sensitive to adjustments ..
Use the Old one !
Use the Old one !
#7
If you hear "crunch" sound when you pull the throttle it's your diff. If you hear a "wiz" sound then your slipper is working. As a test, tighten your diff as per the instructions (almost locked) and try again. I think you'll hear the "wiz" sound this time around and you'll see the front wheels lift off the ground.
I roached the diff cause it was set to loose and now need to rebuild it cause it's so crunchy. Definitely will put ceramic balls. Anyone know if ceramic thrust balls or a one piece thrust bearing is made for this diff?
I roached the diff cause it was set to loose and now need to rebuild it cause it's so crunchy. Definitely will put ceramic balls. Anyone know if ceramic thrust balls or a one piece thrust bearing is made for this diff?
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
If you hear "crunch" sound when you pull the throttle it's your diff. If you hear a "wiz" sound then your slipper is working. As a test, tighten your diff as per the instructions (almost locked) and try again. I think you'll hear the "wiz" sound this time around and you'll see the front wheels lift off the ground.
I roached the diff cause it was set to loose and now need to rebuild it cause it's so crunchy. Definitely will put ceramic balls. Anyone know if ceramic thrust balls or a one piece thrust bearing is made for this diff?
I roached the diff cause it was set to loose and now need to rebuild it cause it's so crunchy. Definitely will put ceramic balls. Anyone know if ceramic thrust balls or a one piece thrust bearing is made for this diff?
bfastrc.com
#9
Tech Master
iTrader: (53)
Yes, I can see that the nut is not spinning on the slipper.
Diff feels perfect. Broke it in, reset it to 1/8 turn out and it's money.
Definitely something with the slipper. Can you offer any other info in regards to my questions? Should the wheels be coming off the ground?
Diff feels perfect. Broke it in, reset it to 1/8 turn out and it's money.
Definitely something with the slipper. Can you offer any other info in regards to my questions? Should the wheels be coming off the ground?
http://rc-drift.com/rc-drift-forum/i...pic=348.0;wap2
#10
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
again, it's def not the diff.
The slipper will not lock up no matter how tight I have it.
So, the front wheels SHOULD come off the ground?
The slipper will not lock up no matter how tight I have it.
So, the front wheels SHOULD come off the ground?
#11
Yes, they should come off the ground momentarily on a carpet surface. When you pull the throttle from a dead start the slipper should slip a little and the front wheels should wheelie off the ground a little and then drop back down as it continues forward.
#12
Tech Champion
Grasping a little perhaps, but maybe try scuffing the slipper pads some. Might be covered in mold release, shock or diff silicone, or something, like the grease previously mentioned? Check the shaft and the hole of the outside slipper disk, make sure nothing is holding it up?
#13
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Trucks have a hard time lifting the front wheels with the hold down trick. If you can get the front to come up 1/2 or so you should be close. Kind of sounds like you fried the pads to me. I kind of break mine in a little by hold trick and low rpm very short bursts tighten gradually like a diff. If you continuosly do the hold down trick your slipper will get hot and definitely wont wheely. Try not to get it hot or squash the pads too much. Run it for awhile and clean the pads and disks up.
#14
Tech Elite
iTrader: (211)
May also try replacing the slipper nut, even if it's new. I had my slipper on my B4/Xfactory come loose after just a couple laps, tightened it up again and drove a couple more laps before I couldn't even make the smallest double. Replaced that nut and it worked perfect.
#15
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Ya, just going to replace the pads. I think there was some grease or oil or something on the metal. Everything looks fine, but pads are cheap. The nut is not coming loose, everything just slips.
Thanks for the info guys, very much appreciated.
Thanks for the info guys, very much appreciated.