XXX-4 with Novak Brushless
06-21-2004, 07:42 PM
#1
XXX-4 with Novak Brushless
I just got this set up and noticed it will thermal if geared even close to too high.I run it 92 - 20 and it is ok but the esc is quite warm.I heard guys run a large power cap to keep the esc cool.Does this help and what cap is used.is it the same one found on worlds kits for LRP or similar?
Any set ups for this car power system would be helpfull.
Any set ups for this car power system would be helpfull.
06-21-2004, 08:49 PM
#4
Cooloing the ESC on Novak's Brushless system
INFERNO: I run the Novak Brushless set-up on a lot of my kits and especially LOVE it on my 4WDs! 
The torque is fantastic and acceleration superb! As far as I know, you should NOT connect any other capacitors to the ESC other than the exact one that comes with it! Better contact Charlie over at Novak to be sure of this.
On my Losi XXX-4 I have experimented and gone as high as 22 on the pinion (92 Spur) and yes the ESC's aluminum fins get very hot! 20/92 works quite well but if you will throw battery pack after battery pack at it, there are some adjustments I would suggest. One thing that will help it cool down is cutting a stratigically placed hole on the body allowing for better air-flow. On the "Invader" XXX-4 it is quite important since it does not have the scoop which was later designed for the "Aurora" XXX-4G+ body. The "Invader" body has the 3 nostril like holes in the front which could help, but definitely aren't enough on their own. In either case though, I would cut a hole right above the ESC (or along it) for both body types. You can then place some meshing on the hole to help keep bigger chunks of dirt and debris out. I use shoo-goo with the meshing. Try this first and see if the ESC's temp cools down. According to Charlie (Suangka) from Novak, he indicated to me that the ESC should be between 140F and 180F during normal to maximum operation. If cutting holes does not bring the temperature down enough (or consistently due to weather conditions, etc.), then you next best bet is using a small fan which you can connect to your receiver. I use them and they work great!
Reedy makes some which are actually used more to cool down motors in touring cars. Here is what one looks like (by the way, you don't need the aluminum heatsink which only adds to your cost) -
The part number for the cooling fan alone without the blue heatsink is: # 448. It's about $10.00 with the needed connector attached. you will just need to be creative when properly mounting it on your kit.
Hope all this info helps!
The torque is fantastic and acceleration superb! As far as I know, you should NOT connect any other capacitors to the ESC other than the exact one that comes with it! Better contact Charlie over at Novak to be sure of this. On my Losi XXX-4 I have experimented and gone as high as 22 on the pinion (92 Spur) and yes the ESC's aluminum fins get very hot! 20/92 works quite well but if you will throw battery pack after battery pack at it, there are some adjustments I would suggest. One thing that will help it cool down is cutting a stratigically placed hole on the body allowing for better air-flow. On the "Invader" XXX-4 it is quite important since it does not have the scoop which was later designed for the "Aurora" XXX-4G+ body. The "Invader" body has the 3 nostril like holes in the front which could help, but definitely aren't enough on their own. In either case though, I would cut a hole right above the ESC (or along it) for both body types. You can then place some meshing on the hole to help keep bigger chunks of dirt and debris out. I use shoo-goo with the meshing. Try this first and see if the ESC's temp cools down. According to Charlie (Suangka) from Novak, he indicated to me that the ESC should be between 140F and 180F during normal to maximum operation. If cutting holes does not bring the temperature down enough (or consistently due to weather conditions, etc.), then you next best bet is using a small fan which you can connect to your receiver. I use them and they work great!
Reedy makes some which are actually used more to cool down motors in touring cars. Here is what one looks like (by the way, you don't need the aluminum heatsink which only adds to your cost) - The part number for the cooling fan alone without the blue heatsink is: # 448. It's about $10.00 with the needed connector attached. you will just need to be creative when properly mounting it on your kit.
Hope all this info helps!
Last edited by STEALTH; 06-21-2004 at 08:56 PM.
06-21-2004, 09:00 PM
#5
I ran my last race this past weekend and the temps were around 180 coming off the track on my G+ with the holes enlarged as well as an extra hole cut out to scoop air in.It was quite hot outside though ( 36 degrees) and traction was fairly high on a relitively long track.Lap times were mid 20's with a few tight hair pins.I am wondering about the drive system.Is there anything I should be doing to make this buggy run as smooth as it possibly can that is not mentioned in the instructions?
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