rctc3

i just bought a factory team b3 for $20 but there's one problem the dogbone keeps popping out of the rotator cup or whatever so how do i fix it?

Wild Cherry

Try moving your rear shocks to the middle hole on the shock tower..

If your running in the inside hole on the rear tower you will need to add a spacer inside the shock ,this will take out some down travel allowing you to run with out the dogbones popin out...

RC10MAN-11

No!,
Actually moving the shock with adjust the suspension so it acts diffrent. First check or camber ( the angle of the tire to the ground should, go with about / 1 degree). If thats not it, talk of the wheel there should be a pin. If theres any spacers between the pin and the bearing remove it. There is a risk with that the wheel would rub againts the bearing. This can be fixed by adding a shim thin in place.

Good Luck

GNiessen

I have two of those buggys and I am amazed that they make the dogones that short. Mine are hanging on the edge and I cannot see any reason for the design. I cannot figure a setup that move the ends more then a couple milimeters inboard, yet there is tons of room in tha direction. It is almost like they didn't want to make new ones from another design, and they do fit (barely).

Wild Cherry

Dudes , there`s nothing wrong with the design of the B-3...
Just check your instruction manual, there you will learn there that if you run the shocks mounted in the inside hole of the shock tower you need to run a spacer inside the shock body to compensate for the extra down travel.
If they made the dogbone longer you would not be able to run the outside hole on the shock tower. Thus the reason they make the dogbone the size they are.


Rc10 man , you got that !!
No , you can not slim the dogbone`s enought to stop them from coming out....
I supose you could run the dogbone with out any slims on the outside , but then you will have the axle pin rubbing the bearing & possible the plastic hubs...
The dogbone`s still would be able to pop out.
( Put at least one slim between the bearing & axle pin.)
Personally I run the thick axle spacer on the outside between the axle pin. This makes the rear of the car wider, giving you more traction & stabilty....

Thanks for trying to help ...

RC10MAN-11

do what ya want my didn't come out when i had my shcocks mounted anywhere and i shimmed them with a thin on out side thick in side. I would rather have the right shock postion and a car that is 1/2 mm narrower!

Wild Cherry

Rc10, I`m not telling you to change your shock position...
I`m telling you to add a spacer inside the shock body if you run the rear shock on the inside hole on the shock tower..

There really is no "right" shock position, just as every track surface is different , the shock positions on each track can also be different ...

Keep your car the same , but I recommend you to try a spacer & slim the dogbones normal.
Your car will gain more traction & stabilty...

Also your wheels will not rub the rear hubs.....

DirtTroll

Its an easy solution and no-one here yet until now evidently knows the real answer. The answer is simple, add spacers between the outdrive and the inside of the hub block. Trust me it won't ever come out again and you can mount the shocks wherever you like. Changing the shock positions does little for this and changes your handling characteristics.

Wild Cherry

Dirt, What ???
You add a spacer where?
Aaah C-on!! Think man !!

please explain.... no wait , try to run your shocks on the outside hole on the shock tower...
Oops , now your dogbones are to long & your supension binds....
You need to read your instruction manuel dude....

There you will find what I have been tellin you all this time...

The correct answer is rite there.....

t3ghiadr

a factory team b3 for $20? where did you find that??

malcolm

The team manual does not refer to damper stoppers.

The d/shaft is right at the edge of the drive output when the suspension is at full droop. This looks all wrong.

Ive tried reducing the camber to pull the hub in, it dosnt help.

Ive tried swaping washers until the wheel rubs, it dosnt help.

I'm going to screw the lower damper ball joint up the damper shaft to try to reduce the suspension droop?

Does anyone think this set up is correct?

GNiessen

I also do not think the B3 is setup very well for the shafts. Even when you lower the suspension to horizontal, which reduces dampening of hard jumps, you have only are on the edge of the drive output. I have seen no even that could ever cause the shaft to reach the inner half of the drive cup. Other then a canter on the rear wheels that would be funny to look at, and probably undrivable.

Does anyone sell longer shafts? Or a drive unit with longer cups?

Wild Cherry

malcome , your right, the only material concerning this topic is in the B-3 tuning guide....
I`m sorry for referring to the instruction manuel.....

Look under shock mounting, rear tower inside the B-3 tuning guide......

In the B-3 tuning guide you will find you need to add the three thin spacers inside the shock body if you run the inside hole on the rear shock tower...

You can try unsrewing the eyelet down a bit for the extra down travel, however you could find that shock shaft will strip the eyelet in a hard landing....


Again, my appolgies to all for referring to the instruction manuel....

Most driver`s run the inside hole of the shock tower if they are looking for more traction. The inside hole also allows the car to row though the turns more, giving the car more steering...

It works good on very smooth surfaces that are very slippery..
Also works good on small, tight tracks...

However if your surface delievers good traction your car will square or saw off the corners ...
If you run the shock out in the middle this will smooth out the handling in the turns...