armourbl

iTrader: (44)

I have a HPI Vorza that I'm racing. I've done quite a bit to it to make it more like a typical kit and less like an RTR.

Biggest issue I'm having right now is getting the suspension tuned properly, seems like my issues are isolated to the rear. I running a very large track. When I set it up stiff enough to not aggressively bottom out and bounce off the chassis, it is too stiff to squat during acceleration or turns and as a result slides. Buggy weighs exactly 9 pounds ready to run.

I'm running the stock 1.3 pistons all around. Associated 40wt in the front, 50wt in the rear. Stock shocks, not running the longer rear shocks that are available. Droop settings and ride heights are set. Droop 100mm rear, 98mm front, right height 29mm rear, 28mm front.

I put in the yellow springs before my last race. I was having issues with the 76mm Orange springs I was using before being too stiff and not allowing the rear to squat under acceleration. Made the buggy not steer well too. I had no preload dialed into these springs.

I also had tried some white springs before that I had from my D8T, but they were too soft and sacked out. To get proper ride height I had to use all of the preload available. The buggy did perform so much better with these springs, but on a smaller track.

I put the yellows in for some middle ground on spring tension. I think they are soft enough without being too soft. However, I also think I'm still blowing through the travel too quickly on landings, chassis is slapping down hard and making me bounce.

What do you think I should change?

For reference, here are the spring options from Hot Bodies.

#67446 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Gray,/60mm/74gf/2pcs)

#67448 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Blue/60mm/89gf/2pcs)

#67449 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Orange/60mm/98gf/2pcs)

#67450 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Green/68mm/59gf/2pcs)

#67451 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Yellow/68mm/68gf/2pcs)

#67452 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Red/68mm/81gf/2pcs)

#67453 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Gray/76mm/52gf/2pcs)

#67454 - Big Bore Shock Spring (White/76mm/59gf/2pcs)

#67455 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Blue/76mm/63gf/2pcs)

#67456 - Big Bore Shock Spring (Orange/76mm/74gf/2pcs)

kvrc

iTrader: (10)

The vorza is layed out just like a converted d8. I use setups from the hot bodies website for my d8 and they work well.
At 9.0 lbs your car is about 13 to 16+ oz heavier than most converted d8 cars. I can't see why a vorza should weigh that much more than a converted d8.
What motor,battery, esc ect are you running in the car. If it is that heavy you should go at least 1 heavier in spring rates compared to the pro setups. My d8 is about 8.3lbs and I run the gray F white R springs.

armourbl

iTrader: (44)

I'll give the D8 setups another look. Can't say for sure why I'm at 9 pounds. I don't really have anything all that unusual on my buggy. It has the Flux CC 2200 motor, MMM ESC, Hitect 7949 servo, 4S LIPO, etc.

ben

kvrc

iTrader: (10)

The one thing you will want to change from the pro setups will be the shock oil weights. In the hot outdoor weather you will want to be around 40 F 45 R using associated or losi oil. When I ran my car indoors and it was about 55 degrees 30 F 35 R worked well.

armourbl

iTrader: (44)

Hmm. I was thinking thicker oil, to help slow down the action. Does this mean I was wrong in my logic? It is possible that it is packing on high speed hits and that is giving me that bounce that I thought was from bottoming the chassis?

We are having 110 to 115 degree peak temps right now here in Phoenix. It is monsoon season too, so humidity is high.

Looking at the D8 setup sheets, it seems as though I'm already one spring size stronger than most of the setups. So I must be on the right track there. Gotta be about the oil now, and maybe droop and ride height settings -- although those seem to be very close to what I'm running too.

ben

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I would run 1.2 rear pistons and lighter shock oil like 45 wt which will have less static pack and more high speed pack. That will help weight transfer and stiffen up on the big stuff to help bottoming. At 9+ pounds your car is pretty heavy though so it's going to take some trial and error. Smaller pistons are going in the right direction though IMO.

kvrc

iTrader: (10)

Let a local fast guy or two turn some laps and see what they say. Your car might not be that far off and maybe you need to adjust some of your driving habits.

Zerodefect

You'll need 2 steps stiffer front springs and 3 steps stiffer for the rear compared to a nitro d8. My D8t was stock with wht/blue for nitro. Converted to E I stepped up to blu/orange.

Try kyosho 1.2x8 taper pistons with 50/60 wt oil. It's hot outside now. my 40wt oil is like 25-30wt feeling. Keep in mind what feels stiff on the bench will feel soft on the track as your shocks heat up.

What battery are you useing. I have a hard time believing your vorza weighs 9 pounds? Thats heavy.

Buggies should bottom out badly nearly everywhere. They only have 28mm ride ht to play with and 2mm droop. 30mm of suspension travel won't soak up much.

armourbl

iTrader: (44)

Believe me when I say my buggy weighs 9 pounds. Weighed 8 pounds 15 ounces on the digital scale at my LHS with my pair of 2S 5400 mAh batteries.

Here is a video of the track I raced on Saturday, not my car in the video. Brand new layout, first time running it for everyone. This should give you and idea of the scale of track I'm talking about, and maybe help with the tuning issues.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrYcV...layer_embedded

I had someone in the Vorza thread suggest the Kyosho 1.2 mm 8 hole angled sp pistons. I'll have to give those a try. On a spur of the moment decision, I rebuilt the shocks yesterday. Put 40wt in the front, and a mix of 40 and 50wt in the rear. I'm guessing from how it feels on the bench that it will still be too soft.

ben

Zerodefect

How long are your mains? Are you sure you need that much battery.

Dropping down to a Turnigy 4500 4s1p hardcase will knock alot of weight off and should be good for 10min mains and ok for grippy conditions on a medium track for 15. It's not enough battery in my car for 15 when the track is slick.

armourbl

iTrader: (44)

Well, that night, I ran a 12 minute B main, finished 2nd place and got bumped into the A main. The A main ran 20 minutes. I borrowed a Hyperion 4S pack from a friend to run in both mains. I don't have the specs on the battery though other than it was a single pack 4S 25c battery. I'm going to pick up a couple of these because I was really impressed with the battery performance. I didn't charge them after the races, he wanted to charge them himself, so I don't know how much mAh was used. It was a hectic night.

ben

armourbl

iTrader: (44)

Forgot to mention we did a battery swap on lap 12 of the A main. Top 10 lap time average for me was 44 seconds. Top 20 lap time average was 46 seconds.

To put that into perspective, I'm slow. The top racer had a consistent average of 37 seconds. But it was open buggy, and I'm only on my third race ever.

ben

kvrc

iTrader: (10)

armoubl... that is a really a big flowing smooth track. If possible let someone who is fast and better yet runs an electric 1/8 scale shake your car down for you.
Since you are new, your car might not be as bad as you think. I have seen many newer drivers throwing everything under the sun at their cars trying to be faster. Sometimes the adjustments need to be made from behind the wheel.

armourbl

iTrader: (44)

Will do. It can be hard to find someone to run it for me sometimes. Best chance would have been on race night, but it was so hot and miserable out there no one really cared to hang out after racing was over.

I haven't really thrown money at the car that was necessary so far. It really seems to me like the suspension is the last major change that I need to make.

During the racing, I made adjustments from behind the wheel as best as I could. I slowed down in places that were causing me issues, didn't try to go for the furthest landing on the small rythm section, tried to hit the downside of the big jumps, etc. I was running consistent 42 second laps for at least a 2-3 laps at one point. If I had been more consistent throughout the entire race, I would have finished much better. I also had a minor mechanical issue that had to be resolved during the race that set me back a lot.

For reference, are these the Kyosho pistons? I want to give these a try. Cheap enough to attempt.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-12-x-8-hole-2

ben

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I'm not sure why you want to try pistons with 8x1.2 holes when u probably already have 6x1.2 pistons that comes with the kit. You'll have to run 60 wt oil with those pistons or it will be too soft. Why don't you try the hb 1.2 pistons with 45wt first?