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Old 07-03-2010, 09:49 PM   #1
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Default Rc8e vs Rc8be?

What are the main differences between the rc8e and the rc8be? All that i have heard is that the rc8be is more durable. Is the rc8te more durable than the rc8be?
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Old 07-04-2010, 04:31 AM   #2
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What are the main differences between the rc8e and the rc8be? All that i have heard is that the rc8be is more durable. Is the rc8te more durable than the rc8be?
Basically the difference between the RC8e and the RC8Be, is that the RC8Be comes optioned out and has a revised steering setup. With the RC8Be you get the FT shocktowers, Big Bore threaded shocks, blue aluminum one piece top plate and M3 Hole Shots with molded inserts. The shocks, diffs, and turnbuckles come pre-assembled too, just add fluid.

I got mine last week and tested it out on tuesday. It feels great, its really nice to drive. The optimized steering setup creates much less bump-steer.
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Old 07-04-2010, 06:56 AM   #3
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Basically the difference between the RC8e and the RC8Be, is that the RC8Be comes optioned out and has a revised steering setup. With the RC8Be you get the FT shocktowers, Big Bore threaded shocks, blue aluminum one piece top plate and M3 Hole Shots with molded inserts. The shocks, diffs, and turnbuckles come pre-assembled too, just add fluid.

I got mine last week and tested it out on tuesday. It feels great, its really nice to drive. The optimized steering setup creates much less bump-steer.
I compared the two, shopped for availability, found the right price (240.00 on closeout at Tower) and built one last week.

The diffs and links came built. The RC8e comes standard with the steering mod done.

The differences (beyond the 180.00 price difference):

A B C D plates. The Be's have more adjustments.
Shock towers. The Be's offer more adjustments.
Shocks. The Be uses the threaded aluminum 16mm shocks instead of the cheesy 16mm resin bodies in the e.
Aluminum front top plate (good worthwhile upgrade)

Beyond those differences, they're both the nitro buggies with the AE conversion kit. The e model will accept every Be upgrade.

I"m not sure which set of chassis braces the Be comes with. If it should come with the built up rod braces, I'd recommend DOWNGRADING to the resin braces that come with the RTR and e models. I've bent the rods on hard landings, never had an issue at all with the resin braces.

I will note that I already owned the front top plate and Threaded shocks. I"m running the rest of it with a similar setup to my old Tekno conversion.

Not only does the steering mod reduce bump steer, but it also alleviated the RC8 pushing like a Mack truck...
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Old 07-04-2010, 08:33 AM   #4
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+1 to all the above.

The RTR chassis braces are the hot ticket. But be sure to replace them if they show any bend or wear at all. Replace them imediately if they are not 100% straight.

The B has way better shocks especially with the 1.1x10 pistons.

Elite Rc has a nice motor mount for the rc8 to.






(If you have niether and are looking for a car, I'd recommend converting a D8, Losi, or Mugen over the rc8)
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Old 07-05-2010, 08:43 PM   #5
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I compared the two, shopped for availability, found the right price (240.00 on closeout at Tower) and built one last week.

The diffs and links came built. The RC8e comes standard with the steering mod done.

The differences (beyond the 180.00 price difference):

A B C D plates. The Be's have more adjustments.
Shock towers. The Be's offer more adjustments.
Shocks. The Be uses the threaded aluminum 16mm shocks instead of the cheesy 16mm resin bodies in the e.
Aluminum front top plate (good worthwhile upgrade)

Beyond those differences, they're both the nitro buggies with the AE conversion kit. The e model will accept every Be upgrade.

I"m not sure which set of chassis braces the Be comes with. If it should come with the built up rod braces, I'd recommend DOWNGRADING to the resin braces that come with the RTR and e models. I've bent the rods on hard landings, never had an issue at all with the resin braces.

I will note that I already owned the front top plate and Threaded shocks. I"m running the rest of it with a similar setup to my old Tekno conversion.

Not only does the steering mod reduce bump steer, but it also alleviated the RC8 pushing like a Mack truck...
Is the Rc8be more durable than the rc8e?
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Old 07-06-2010, 05:16 AM   #6
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The Aluminun top plate, shocks, and arm carriers make the RC8BE more durable than the RC8E
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:29 AM   #7
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The Aluminun top plate, shocks, and arm carriers make the RC8BE more durable than the RC8E
oh ok so could i put those aluminum parts in an rc8e?
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:59 AM   #8
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oh ok so could i put those aluminum parts in an rc8e?
I converted my FTRC8e into a RC8Be. It would have been smarter to just buy a brand new RC8Be and keep the FTRC8e for spare parts.
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by kyle3333 View Post
Basically the difference between the RC8e and the RC8Be, is that the RC8Be comes optioned out and has a revised steering setup. With the RC8Be you get the FT shocktowers, Big Bore threaded shocks, blue aluminum one piece top plate and M3 Hole Shots with molded inserts. The shocks, diffs, and turnbuckles come pre-assembled too, just add fluid.

I got mine last week and tested it out on tuesday. It feels great, its really nice to drive. The optimized steering setup creates much less bump-steer.

How did you get an RC8Be FT so soon, they say there not going to be in until mid July?
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Old 07-12-2010, 03:46 AM   #10
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How did you get an RC8Be FT so soon, they say there not going to be in until mid July?
Hmm, strange- my lhs in Austria (Europe) got some in Stock...
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Old 11-09-2012, 06:26 PM   #11
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Resurrecting an old thread here - can anyone post the part numbers necessary to upgrade an RC8e to an RC8Be?
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