Briguy

iTrader: (125)

A lower MAH lipo isn`t gonna help much . I run a similar KV rating motor with a 2S 5200 30C lipo in my XXX-CR and if the slipper doesn`t slip it will pull wheelies all day on top of itself .

The diff needs to be tight , but can be ran looser as long as you have the slipper set to slip before the diff would slip . If you let the diff slip you will hear that noise again and eventually melt the diff gear .

pdiddy777

iTrader: (10)

thats the exact battery i have in there ..i backed the slipper almost all the way off and at full throttle it still wants to go over .. how do u have your esc set ..throttle curve or that percentage thing 0%-100% the mamba lets u set everything ..or should i put it at default settings ? wish u were local ..lol

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

I have no idea what programming a Mamba is like as I never had one . I run Tekin systems . I`d try a default setting and see if that slows it down or just slow down the throttle curve .

sly6t

have ya tried putting weight up the front to keep the nose down. u have to much power to use any way so abit of weight wont matter. on my bros rc10gt we moved the servo battery up front on the sups tower to keep its nose down . it worked. or and even easyer thing is to eeeezzzz on the throttle and be smooth .

G33Kster

iTrader: (11)

Try recalibrating the throttle. It could be that the ESC thinks that full throttle is somewhere very close to neutral on the transmitter. I just had the same problem today with my new BL system that I calibrated incorrectly - every time I touched the trigger on my Tx the motor would go to full throttle. Fixed it and now it works like a charm... worth a shot

pdiddy777

iTrader: (10)

thanx guys for the input.. the throttle on the control will go gradually but when full trigger pulled it flips still ,, im gonna try and call mamba today and see the best way to dial in the throttle curve on the laptop. weight would probably work but dont know where or what to put in the front ,not many options there cause of room.. ive been adjusting the slipper all night and it just still flips at full throttle or it sounds like it wants to slip too much and break.. when i adjust just a little on the nut ,,still flips.. its funny i use the nimh battery it doesnt flip ..use the lipo 2s it does ,, that much of a power difference with these things ..crazy..maybe its just too big of a motor .. this damn thing is a pain in the ass..lol givin me a headache...any1 near jersey to show me what the hell im doin wrong ?

pirape

everything can be set by distance on your radio
change throttle profile (ESC or Radio)where you can gradually give gaz form 0-100% of the trigger (so the full throttle is not at 10% of your figertip)

then use the remote to give a throttle curve of 70%(extreme) and go from there till you reach a confort zone

mine is 10%(on the radio)

you can also adjust the slipper. Check to make sure you didnt glue the slipper to the slipper pads. My friends slipper was melted to the spur...and acted like there was no slipper LOL. The way it works is that when you hit gaz it will slip and the car wont have torque at all. more you tighten it more power is transfered from the motor to the tranny.

1st problem to fix is the slipper issue

take it appart see if its all right

its not a ESC problem

Tilden

iTrader: (1)

Put smaller pinion to reduce speed??

Jason_R

A couple things..

Weight - if you're going to race, you'll likely need weight in the front of the truck anyway for steering. My XXXT-CR probably had 3 or 4 oz in it.

If you're rolling in the throttle and its still flipping over when you really get it wound up then throttle curve won't really help because wide open is still wide open ( ) its just changing how the power is delivered until you get there. Have you tried turning down the EPA on your radio?

I've never tried to use castle link to reduce the top end, just punch control, etc to help deal with the low end hit.. if I have handling issues at full throttle I control that problem with my trigger finger - I just don't pull it that far

Which is also why I generally don't run more than a 10.5 in 2wd truck.

flyintrtle

iTrader: (1)

What all have you done with the esc with it hooked up to castle link? When it's hooked up, each item that can be changed will have a question mark by it, click on those. For items like punch control & start power, it will explain what the settings are & mean & it also recomends what to set them at.

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Speed isn`t the issue , torque is . Going smaller will increase torque .



Putting some weight in the front won`t help much far as flipping backwards . To much in front will cause heavy nose dives when jumping . I run 1/2 oz in the bulkhead , 1/2 oz on top of bulkhead and 1 oz near the servo. But He needs to worry about taming that monster motor down via ESC , Radio , or slipper and then worry about weight distribution for the track . Sounds like your slipper is not right , take it apart and check it out.

allanmathews

iTrader: (31)

learn 2 drive hehe

Cain

iTrader: (294)

your best bet in my opinion is to pull that throttle curve down so you get a nice looking half moon shape.

This will calm it down on the low end, and also incorporate this with your slipper changes too.

If you radio has it, you can play with the settings there as well.

Also, if I recall correctly, the ESC may have punch control, so turn that up.

wstuart

iTrader: (117)

theres a setting called "start power" on your castle link. Turn that down and you should be good to go. If the nose continues to come up on you as you speed up build a front wing.

my rc 18t used to flip over any time at full throttle. I built a very tiny front wing and the nose stayed down all day. Thing would do 55 on 3s no problem - just started shredding gears though