MRC / Academy SB Sport 4wd Buggy
06-11-2004, 02:34 PM
#196
Tech Rookie
ST-P02 Hub Carrier
Sorry but this part wont fit the SB.
ST-P02 Hub Carrier ( 5 degrees ) ( 1 pair )
ST-P02 Hub Carrier ( 5 degrees ) ( 1 pair )
06-12-2004, 04:52 PM
#198
Tech Initiate
I'm not checking the boards everyday but am ASAP. Thanks Cain for answering that post for me..... You and I have about the same info so far.
Anyone near Indianapolis? I'm going to Planet RC raceway there next week. Jason there told me that RC Car is testing the SB there on Monday or Tuesday. I'm just going to stop in after the F1 testing, and Qualifying during the weekend.
Shawn
Anyone near Indianapolis? I'm going to Planet RC raceway there next week. Jason there told me that RC Car is testing the SB there on Monday or Tuesday. I'm just going to stop in after the F1 testing, and Qualifying during the weekend.
Shawn
06-12-2004, 07:06 PM
#199
Some more news.
I went ahead and switched up the oil all the way up to 40W all around. I was also running silver AE front truck springs up front and Blue AE Truck Rears in the rear. off of the big jumps I think I may still need alittle heavier oil for the rear, probably 45W would work best.
The Truck springs up front worked, but buggy springs would be ideal so you can adjust the ride height properly. Also, I am thinking that for the rear you may be able to use front truck springs so you can still adjust the ride height as the stock rear truck springs are shorter than AE rears.
The buggy was great around the track, alittle front wheel lift in the turns, but it really turned great, on a dime actually. The missing steering link that they sent out to me really gave me alot more steering.
I caught that same glitch again, I think I narrowed it down and will be solving it for next week, but it cost me anothe broken arm and bent pin, but I managed to unbend the other side and the LHS actually had some of the pins in stock from previous academy sales which the owners never needed.
I let the LHS owner wheel the vehicle, and he liked it some much he is ordering one for himself and I believe other guy will order one two and we can have a 4wd class going. He will also be stocking the kits.
This vehicle has SO much potential. I am very impressed with it overall.
I went ahead and switched up the oil all the way up to 40W all around. I was also running silver AE front truck springs up front and Blue AE Truck Rears in the rear. off of the big jumps I think I may still need alittle heavier oil for the rear, probably 45W would work best.
The Truck springs up front worked, but buggy springs would be ideal so you can adjust the ride height properly. Also, I am thinking that for the rear you may be able to use front truck springs so you can still adjust the ride height as the stock rear truck springs are shorter than AE rears.
The buggy was great around the track, alittle front wheel lift in the turns, but it really turned great, on a dime actually. The missing steering link that they sent out to me really gave me alot more steering.
I caught that same glitch again, I think I narrowed it down and will be solving it for next week, but it cost me anothe broken arm and bent pin, but I managed to unbend the other side and the LHS actually had some of the pins in stock from previous academy sales which the owners never needed.
I let the LHS owner wheel the vehicle, and he liked it some much he is ordering one for himself and I believe other guy will order one two and we can have a 4wd class going. He will also be stocking the kits.
This vehicle has SO much potential. I am very impressed with it overall.
06-14-2004, 06:23 AM
#200
I picked up a set of B4 shocks to run on the buggy. Hope to see it here wednesday and have everything mounted up then.
Woody, any word on the slipper yet and how much it cost you? From what I can gather online from more racers, even guys who don't race it but race against, once you get that slipper, you vehicle can be dialed on any track. Its like the only thing that it needs.
Woody, any word on the slipper yet and how much it cost you? From what I can gather online from more racers, even guys who don't race it but race against, once you get that slipper, you vehicle can be dialed on any track. Its like the only thing that it needs.
06-14-2004, 08:07 AM
#201
Tech Master
How do you guys get parts for these things?
Will B4 arms slap on to this thing?
Will B4 arms slap on to this thing?
06-14-2004, 10:59 AM
#203
The B3 set of turnbuckles will do both your camber links and your steering links. Just use the rear ( shorter ) B3 links on the steering links and you are all set.
Honestly, I haven't had a problem getting parts. Just talk to your LHS and get them to order the parts from you. I would also give ultimate hobbies a call and ask them about parts as well.
the parts are pretty durable, more flex than AE parts, but they do hold up well. I have only broken because of a glitch full speed into a concrete wall. Not a good thing
Honestly, I haven't had a problem getting parts. Just talk to your LHS and get them to order the parts from you. I would also give ultimate hobbies a call and ask them about parts as well.
the parts are pretty durable, more flex than AE parts, but they do hold up well. I have only broken because of a glitch full speed into a concrete wall. Not a good thing
06-14-2004, 08:52 PM
#204
Cain:
Its Here!
I cant wait to build it. I got a question...
What other manufacturer tires / rims fit the SB sport? Is the front rim as wide as the XXX wide front rim or is it the same size as the XX4 front rim? Also the rims that it comes shipped with...are they dyeable?
Thank You for all your help!
Its Here!
I cant wait to build it. I got a question...What other manufacturer tires / rims fit the SB sport? Is the front rim as wide as the XXX wide front rim or is it the same size as the XX4 front rim? Also the rims that it comes shipped with...are they dyeable?
Thank You for all your help!
06-15-2004, 05:54 AM
#206
ThreeEwes:
Any 4wd tires will work, for rims, I think you have to use Kyosho ones but the price and quality of the Academy rims makes using other types really a mute point. The make them in two colors, white and yellow. If you plan to use the kit tires, make sure that you pickup some stiffer foam before assembling them, also, drill a hole in the rims to vent the air. I put two across from each other.
Make sure to scan this thread before building, there is some good info in there to help you out. Namely these things:
1. spacers on rear drive cups to put dogbones out further
2. You may want to add a spacer on the front drive shaft cup to better secure the drive shaft, maybe even order another of those small springs. I just use a red o-ring, two I think
3. Make sure that you electronics lay flat as possible on the chassis so you can mount the body extra low.
4. Don't be suprised if you need to file the drivepins alittle for the hexes. I did as they wouldn't go in, but it was a minor issue.
5. use the long upper and lower mounts for the shocks.
6. Pay attention to the direction that the differentials go into the diff cases, use the amount of shims they state for the diffs.
7. When installing the motor, I removed the shim in the motor mount to hold the motor better, this may not be what you want to do. Try it first with the shim and see how well it holds you motor. I am looking into using a smaller shim. Threadlock on the screw helps.
I think that about does it from what I can remember. you may get alittle binding in the front and rear wheels if you really crank down the wheel nuts, some dremel away, but I didn't know exactly where to dremel, so I just backed the nuts back till I didn't feel any binding, this worked well.
When you get it together and all painted up send us some pics and go to 4wdrc and email them your pics to post on there site! More interest in 4wd the better!
Any 4wd tires will work, for rims, I think you have to use Kyosho ones but the price and quality of the Academy rims makes using other types really a mute point. The make them in two colors, white and yellow. If you plan to use the kit tires, make sure that you pickup some stiffer foam before assembling them, also, drill a hole in the rims to vent the air. I put two across from each other.
Make sure to scan this thread before building, there is some good info in there to help you out. Namely these things:
1. spacers on rear drive cups to put dogbones out further
2. You may want to add a spacer on the front drive shaft cup to better secure the drive shaft, maybe even order another of those small springs. I just use a red o-ring, two I think
3. Make sure that you electronics lay flat as possible on the chassis so you can mount the body extra low.
4. Don't be suprised if you need to file the drivepins alittle for the hexes. I did as they wouldn't go in, but it was a minor issue.
5. use the long upper and lower mounts for the shocks.
6. Pay attention to the direction that the differentials go into the diff cases, use the amount of shims they state for the diffs.
7. When installing the motor, I removed the shim in the motor mount to hold the motor better, this may not be what you want to do. Try it first with the shim and see how well it holds you motor. I am looking into using a smaller shim. Threadlock on the screw helps.
I think that about does it from what I can remember. you may get alittle binding in the front and rear wheels if you really crank down the wheel nuts, some dremel away, but I didn't know exactly where to dremel, so I just backed the nuts back till I didn't feel any binding, this worked well.
When you get it together and all painted up send us some pics and go to 4wdrc and email them your pics to post on there site! More interest in 4wd the better!
Last edited by Cain; 06-15-2004 at 07:01 AM.
06-15-2004, 06:29 AM
#207
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Cain, point 7 about the washer on the motor mount, DO NOT REMOVE IT. If you over tighten the screw on the cast mount, or the alloy one, you run the risk of distorting the motor mount and stripping the threads. Just wind the screw till it bottoms out then just nip it up, thats ALL it needs.
One thing to watch out for, is the moulding around the diff outdirve bearings, on some, the platis hasn't been trimmed far enough back, so it fouls on the inner race of the bearing, but Mr Dremmel can sort that out in minutes.
One thing to watch out for, is the moulding around the diff outdirve bearings, on some, the platis hasn't been trimmed far enough back, so it fouls on the inner race of the bearing, but Mr Dremmel can sort that out in minutes.
06-15-2004, 09:32 AM
#210
I wont start building the kit until I order bearings...Something else I noticed upon ready the instruction manual:
This kit has 2 unflanged and 1 flanged bushing in each diff. The front and rear hubs have bushings -8 , the steering posts have 4 flanged bushings. Did you guys change them all or did you just change the hub bushings and steering bushings?
I don't want to start a flame war all over again but its too bad this model didn't come with all bearings!
Whats your take on this?
This kit has 2 unflanged and 1 flanged bushing in each diff. The front and rear hubs have bushings -8 , the steering posts have 4 flanged bushings. Did you guys change them all or did you just change the hub bushings and steering bushings?
I don't want to start a flame war all over again but its too bad this model didn't come with all bearings!
Whats your take on this?