R/C Tech Forums - Fantom p2k2 set up suggestions

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Fantom p2k2 set up suggestions

what springs/ brushes will give me best performance in my rc10t4

Stock motor setup is a topic of big debate, and you're going to get a billion answers.

I like Trinity 4505 brushes the best, with a red spring on the negative and a green on the positive. This combo gives good power and is easy on the comm.

You can also use Reedy 767s all around, Red + , Green - , and make sure you align your brush hoods if needed.

For better comm wear, you can try 766s on the negative side. You may find however that in truck you may want more torque, and the 766s all around will give that to you, you can also try Purple+, Red - combo.

Which will give me more tourque ? Purple+, Red - , or red negatative green possitive

Which will give me more rpm Purple+, Red - , or re negative green possitive?

Purple/Red will give you more torque, Red/Green will give you more RPM.

Not many people have tried 4505's, and I'm sure most would convert over to running them versus any other stock brush out there right now!

Quote:

Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
Stock motor setup is a topic of big debate, and you're going to get a billion answers.

I like Trinity 4505 brushes the best, with a red spring on the negative and a green on the positive. This combo gives good power and is easy on the comm.

I used the 4500 brush in the past and liked it very much. About the same power as the 4499 but much easier on the comm and still the same power when the serrations were gone away.
Used the red/green combo also.

Do you know what´s the difference between the 4505 and the 4500?

I spoke with some people who have tested the brushes and here is what they say:

Quote:

On my CE the 4505's do make a little more power than the 767's on most Epic stock motors. In the area of 1 watt or so, but I like to call them the "one run brush" because the comm. blackens and the brushes glaze up after a 5 minute race. I have tested them in offroad and TC, If you do run that type I would recommend the straight serration 4503. The 99+ compound IMO is not as good of a brush as a 767 or a P green shunt, unless you cut your motors every run.

Another:

Quote:

I have tested them (4505) on my TD45 also and I have found the same results. They make an extra watt or two more on a fresh rebuild than a 767, but they are very hard on comms. They only seem to make a little more power in the 28 to 35 amp range, since you have to flow the current through them with all the silver that is in them. The lower numbers don't seem to be any better than a 767 or a 728 type brush. I can make up for a watt with proper gearing and with the 767, I don't have to cut the comm every run or two like you would with the 4505s. Just my observations.

From that knowledge, I am going to stick with my 767 as comm wear is important to me.

The 4500 is a great brush. I used that before and really liked it and I believe Big Jim even recommends it as one of trinity's best brushest. Great power and doesn't beat up the comm as hard.

Cain
Thanks for that informations. So it seems I really don´t need the 4505.
But I understand you right the 767 works better than the 4500?
What is the difference and do you resserate the 767 after the serrations have gone?

thanks for the help waldon and cain ill have to try those sping combos i already only run 767 reedy brush

To me from my usage the 4500 felt kind of like a 766. Great wear and great power, lots of torque which would be good in a truck.

For the motors I run the brush on, resserating isn't necessary. The motor I run actually likes the serrations gone. If you have a dyno, check it out with the serrations and without. ( I don't have a personal serrator ).