Tekno Shafts for Slash 4x4
05-25-2010, 03:20 PM
#62
Garry, I am running the TeknoNeu 2D motor 3300kv, on 3s it can pull higher gearing, and still run cool. It is much faster than a Novak HV 4.5 on 2s which I run in my Jammin SCRT10.
I like the idea of running the arms reversed with the shocks in back, I noticed that the lower shock mounts in the stock position were getting dinged up pretty good from hitting stuff on full compression. The only issue is I want to run the rear sway bar.
I like the idea of running the arms reversed with the shocks in back, I noticed that the lower shock mounts in the stock position were getting dinged up pretty good from hitting stuff on full compression. The only issue is I want to run the rear sway bar.
I will post some pics of my A-Arms reversed with my sway bar on tonight.
Keep on rocking amigo!!!!!!!!!
05-25-2010, 03:22 PM
#63
05-26-2010, 11:30 AM
#66
You can drill out any aluminum 4x4 hex to fit the Tekno axles. If you don't have a 6mm bit, 15/64's is within .0015. I used the mini lathe to get them exactly straight, but with some skill you could do it with about anything.
I agree though, just not enough pin surface area to use plastic hexes for these axles.
I agree though, just not enough pin surface area to use plastic hexes for these axles.
05-26-2010, 11:40 AM
#67
Here's some info on an issue we have heard in a couple other forums about the hex adapter. Here is a detailed explanation of how to install the shims:
We provide some shims to eliminate play from the axles (6 total). The thing is, not all of them need to be used if any. If you use too many, the hex can't tighten down around the pin when you tighten down the wheel nut and you may introduce some binding into your drivetrain.
The best way to know if you're axles are shimmed correctly is to start with no shims at all. Install the wheel, tighten everything down as if you were racing. Check if there is any side to side play. If there is, take off the wheel, hex, and pin, put in one shim, tighten everything down and check again. You want a very small amount of play.
If you add a shim and there is no play, take that shim back out and you know you are good to go.
Throughout all of testing we never stripped a hex using this method for shimming the play out of the axles. Hope this helps.
---------------------
We have aluminum hexes coming soon. But if you follow the info above, you shouldn't strip the plastic hexes. We raced on the same set for months before releasing them without a single stripped hex.
We provide some shims to eliminate play from the axles (6 total). The thing is, not all of them need to be used if any. If you use too many, the hex can't tighten down around the pin when you tighten down the wheel nut and you may introduce some binding into your drivetrain.
The best way to know if you're axles are shimmed correctly is to start with no shims at all. Install the wheel, tighten everything down as if you were racing. Check if there is any side to side play. If there is, take off the wheel, hex, and pin, put in one shim, tighten everything down and check again. You want a very small amount of play.
If you add a shim and there is no play, take that shim back out and you know you are good to go.
Throughout all of testing we never stripped a hex using this method for shimming the play out of the axles. Hope this helps.
---------------------
We have aluminum hexes coming soon. But if you follow the info above, you shouldn't strip the plastic hexes. We raced on the same set for months before releasing them without a single stripped hex.
05-26-2010, 06:51 PM
#68
My honest review of the axles:
pros:
seem real beefy, will likely solve the broken axle issue
machining looks great
CVD is the right length, no binding or even coming close to binding
Very smooth action, great drive cups
Cons:
Have to reuse the inner stock bearing for the front cvd's. Bearings cost the manufacturer what, 50 cents? Come on now.
Same with the outer drive pin....lame
The rear hubs are EXTREMELY flexable. Maybe too flexable.
While we are on the rear hubs, none of the holes are "stock" The #5 hole surely isn't even close. # 2 is closer than #5., at least to the pe aluminum ones, but still off a bit. There's also only ONE hole in the bottom..luckily it is the same as the lower hole on the aluminum hubs which is what I use.
Front hubs....none of the settings is stock bumpsteer. All the washers on top and flange up on the ball is equal to flange down on the stock. However, the best setting is flange up on the stockers which is unobtainable on these.
Also, on all 4, the cvd pin(the big one) is machined for a grub screw in the end to hold the smaller one. But, no grub screw is provided. You don't need that grub screw....until your wheel nut comes off. If the hex comes off and your drive pin falls out and the axles shifts back....all your cvd pieces are going to be all over the track. It's a Losi design ripoff err copy.....why machine the big pin for a grub like a losi, but not provide it? Come on.....chincing out big time.
My final prerun verdict is a 7 out of 10. 2 extra front bearings, and .02 cent drive pins, and .03 cent grub screws isn't asking too much when the investment for the sets is a whopping 85$. While the actual cvd's are great, the plastic is questionable and not to exact stock dimensions. If they were to stock dimensions, my camber would have stayed the same after assembly...all are off. The rear is negligible, the front really irks me as that is an important setting...and changing the shims to anything other than what they "call stock" exascerbates the geometry flaw. So if you want anything near a consistent toe through the suspension stroke, you are gonna have to use a regular ball and even more asinine little washers. While it looks like it might cure the broken axle issue....the kit is nowhere near 100% refined as some make it out to be. Tekno needs to step up and send bearings, drive pins, and grub screws out to all those that bought these. They also need to get these front hubs revised and send some new ones out. Thats my .02
pros:
seem real beefy, will likely solve the broken axle issue
machining looks great
CVD is the right length, no binding or even coming close to binding
Very smooth action, great drive cups
Cons:
Have to reuse the inner stock bearing for the front cvd's. Bearings cost the manufacturer what, 50 cents? Come on now.
Same with the outer drive pin....lame
The rear hubs are EXTREMELY flexable. Maybe too flexable.
While we are on the rear hubs, none of the holes are "stock" The #5 hole surely isn't even close. # 2 is closer than #5., at least to the pe aluminum ones, but still off a bit. There's also only ONE hole in the bottom..luckily it is the same as the lower hole on the aluminum hubs which is what I use.
Front hubs....none of the settings is stock bumpsteer. All the washers on top and flange up on the ball is equal to flange down on the stock. However, the best setting is flange up on the stockers which is unobtainable on these.
Also, on all 4, the cvd pin(the big one) is machined for a grub screw in the end to hold the smaller one. But, no grub screw is provided. You don't need that grub screw....until your wheel nut comes off. If the hex comes off and your drive pin falls out and the axles shifts back....all your cvd pieces are going to be all over the track. It's a Losi design ripoff err copy.....why machine the big pin for a grub like a losi, but not provide it? Come on.....chincing out big time.
My final prerun verdict is a 7 out of 10. 2 extra front bearings, and .02 cent drive pins, and .03 cent grub screws isn't asking too much when the investment for the sets is a whopping 85$. While the actual cvd's are great, the plastic is questionable and not to exact stock dimensions. If they were to stock dimensions, my camber would have stayed the same after assembly...all are off. The rear is negligible, the front really irks me as that is an important setting...and changing the shims to anything other than what they "call stock" exascerbates the geometry flaw. So if you want anything near a consistent toe through the suspension stroke, you are gonna have to use a regular ball and even more asinine little washers. While it looks like it might cure the broken axle issue....the kit is nowhere near 100% refined as some make it out to be. Tekno needs to step up and send bearings, drive pins, and grub screws out to all those that bought these. They also need to get these front hubs revised and send some new ones out. Thats my .02
05-26-2010, 06:57 PM
#69
My honest review of the axles:
pros:
seem real beefy, will likely solve the broken axle issue
machining looks great
CVD is the right length, no binding or even coming close to binding
Very smooth action, great drive cups
Cons:
Have to reuse the inner stock bearing for the front cvd's. Bearings cost the manufacturer what, 50 cents? Come on now.
Same with the outer drive pin....lame
The rear hubs are EXTREMELY flexable. Maybe too flexable.
While we are on the rear hubs, none of the holes are "stock" The #5 hole surely isn't even close. # 2 is closer than #5., at least to the pe aluminum ones, but still off a bit. There's also only ONE hole in the bottom..luckily it is the same as the lower hole on the aluminum hubs which is what I use.
Front hubs....none of the settings is stock bumpsteer. All the washers on top and flange up on the ball is equal to flange down on the stock. However, the best setting is flange up on the stockers which is unobtainable on these.
Also, on all 4, the cvd pin(the big one) is machined for a grub screw in the end to hold the smaller one. But, no grub screw is provided. You don't need that grub screw....until your wheel nut comes off. If the hex comes off and your drive pin falls out and the axles shifts back....all your cvd pieces are going to be all over the track. It's a Losi design ripoff err copy.....why machine the big pin for a grub like a losi, but not provide it? Come on.....chincing out big time.
My final prerun verdict is a 7 out of 10. 2 extra front bearings, and .02 cent drive pins, and .03 cent grub screws isn't asking too much when the investment for the sets is a whopping 85$. While the actual cvd's are great, the plastic is questionable and not to exact stock dimensions. If they were to stock dimensions, my camber would have stayed the same after assembly...all are off. The rear is negligible, the front really irks me as that is an important setting...and changing the shims to anything other than what they "call stock" exascerbates the geometry flaw. So if you want anything near a consistent toe through the suspension stroke, you are gonna have to use a regular ball and even more asinine little washers. While it looks like it might cure the broken axle issue....the kit is nowhere near 100% refined as some make it out to be. Tekno needs to step up and send bearings, drive pins, and grub screws out to all those that bought these. They also need to get these front hubs revised and send some new ones out. Thats my .02
pros:
seem real beefy, will likely solve the broken axle issue
machining looks great
CVD is the right length, no binding or even coming close to binding
Very smooth action, great drive cups
Cons:
Have to reuse the inner stock bearing for the front cvd's. Bearings cost the manufacturer what, 50 cents? Come on now.
Same with the outer drive pin....lame
The rear hubs are EXTREMELY flexable. Maybe too flexable.
While we are on the rear hubs, none of the holes are "stock" The #5 hole surely isn't even close. # 2 is closer than #5., at least to the pe aluminum ones, but still off a bit. There's also only ONE hole in the bottom..luckily it is the same as the lower hole on the aluminum hubs which is what I use.
Front hubs....none of the settings is stock bumpsteer. All the washers on top and flange up on the ball is equal to flange down on the stock. However, the best setting is flange up on the stockers which is unobtainable on these.
Also, on all 4, the cvd pin(the big one) is machined for a grub screw in the end to hold the smaller one. But, no grub screw is provided. You don't need that grub screw....until your wheel nut comes off. If the hex comes off and your drive pin falls out and the axles shifts back....all your cvd pieces are going to be all over the track. It's a Losi design ripoff err copy.....why machine the big pin for a grub like a losi, but not provide it? Come on.....chincing out big time.
My final prerun verdict is a 7 out of 10. 2 extra front bearings, and .02 cent drive pins, and .03 cent grub screws isn't asking too much when the investment for the sets is a whopping 85$. While the actual cvd's are great, the plastic is questionable and not to exact stock dimensions. If they were to stock dimensions, my camber would have stayed the same after assembly...all are off. The rear is negligible, the front really irks me as that is an important setting...and changing the shims to anything other than what they "call stock" exascerbates the geometry flaw. So if you want anything near a consistent toe through the suspension stroke, you are gonna have to use a regular ball and even more asinine little washers. While it looks like it might cure the broken axle issue....the kit is nowhere near 100% refined as some make it out to be. Tekno needs to step up and send bearings, drive pins, and grub screws out to all those that bought these. They also need to get these front hubs revised and send some new ones out. Thats my .02
05-26-2010, 07:11 PM
#70
05-26-2010, 07:25 PM
#71
I'm by far the most
about the front hubs. Will likely take hours to get it exactly right using who knows what out of my parts box when it should have been an easy ordeal. The inner bearing will fit in the stock hubs...I wonder if anyone makes an outer bearing that will fit with a 6mm center??? hmmmmmmm
05-27-2010, 11:38 AM
#72
I would have gave them an 8 if they supplied all the parts. A 9 if they supplied the parts, and used plastic that was the exact stock dimensions. A 10 if they used a high performance polymer instead of "bash" style rpm stuff. Just to clarify my ratings.
I'm by far the most about the front hubs. Will likely take hours to get it exactly right using who knows what out of my parts box when it should have been an easy ordeal. The inner bearing will fit in the stock hubs...I wonder if anyone makes an outer bearing that will fit with a 6mm center??? hmmmmmmm
I'm by far the most
about the front hubs. Will likely take hours to get it exactly right using who knows what out of my parts box when it should have been an easy ordeal. The inner bearing will fit in the stock hubs...I wonder if anyone makes an outer bearing that will fit with a 6mm center??? hmmmmmmmHave you tried running them yet? Having some bumpsteer typically makes for an easier driving car as well as increasing your turn in. That's why we added the option. If you don't like having increased bumpsteer and prefer zero bumpsteer another thing you can try is using a standard height ball on the inner side of the link and raising it up with a washer underneath of it. This will produce more of the effect you are looking for.
Also, these hubs should not be as "soft" as RPM. As far as I know, RPM does not use any glass in their hub molds, all nylon. This is not the case with ours. They should be plenty stiff for this application.
We left out the front inner bearings and drive pins to keep cost down, plain and simple. And we left out the setscrew because it will cut down on friction and it's not needed (except if your wheel falls off like you mentioned, and even then, it's not guaranteed that you'll lose the pin and barrel nut). We've always left out those setscrews on all of our rc cars and never had an issue.
We went with only one hingepin hole because most people don't use the upper hole.
I'm not trying to start a debate, just explaining why we did what we did. We always appreciate customer feedback and will definitely use what you've said to continue to make better products.
05-27-2010, 11:42 AM
#73
Have you tried running them yet? Having some bumpsteer typically makes for an easier driving car as well as increasing your turn in. That's why we added the option. If you don't like having increased bumpsteer and prefer zero bumpsteer another thing you can try is using a standard height ball on the inner side of the link and raising it up with a washer underneath of it. This will produce more of the effect you are looking for.
Also, these hubs should not be as "soft" as RPM. As far as I know, RPM does not use any glass in their hub molds, all nylon. This is not the case with ours. They should be plenty stiff for this application.
We left out the front inner bearings and drive pins to keep cost down, plain and simple. And we left out the setscrew because it will cut down on friction and it's not needed (except if your wheel falls off like you mentioned, and even then, it's not guaranteed that you'll lose the pin and barrel nut). We've always left out those setscrews on all of our rc cars and never had an issue.
We went with only one hingepin hole because most people don't use the upper hole.
I'm not trying to start a debate, just explaining why we did what we did. We always appreciate customer feedback and will definitely use what you've said to continue to make better products.
Also, these hubs should not be as "soft" as RPM. As far as I know, RPM does not use any glass in their hub molds, all nylon. This is not the case with ours. They should be plenty stiff for this application.
We left out the front inner bearings and drive pins to keep cost down, plain and simple. And we left out the setscrew because it will cut down on friction and it's not needed (except if your wheel falls off like you mentioned, and even then, it's not guaranteed that you'll lose the pin and barrel nut). We've always left out those setscrews on all of our rc cars and never had an issue.
We went with only one hingepin hole because most people don't use the upper hole.
I'm not trying to start a debate, just explaining why we did what we did. We always appreciate customer feedback and will definitely use what you've said to continue to make better products.
05-27-2010, 12:28 PM
#74
Well I have done some more testing with the most Bump Steer setting. And boy now I can really get my Slash around a corner easier.
As for ratings I have to give them an 12 out of 10
I have seen so many MIP Drive Shafts snap for no apparent reason. Also that plastic catch pin thing they have wears out after some time and usually breaks when you are racing
I have truely put mine through some hard over shot landings or coming up short and they are good as new.
I don't bash my trucks. But on a race track you can't beat the quality and adjustablity that these give you. Going from indoor clay to outdoor loaming surfaces. Having the option to really dial in this truck helps.
As for ratings I have to give them an 12 out of 10
I have seen so many MIP Drive Shafts snap for no apparent reason. Also that plastic catch pin thing they have wears out after some time and usually breaks when you are racing
I have truely put mine through some hard over shot landings or coming up short and they are good as new.
I don't bash my trucks. But on a race track you can't beat the quality and adjustablity that these give you. Going from indoor clay to outdoor loaming surfaces. Having the option to really dial in this truck helps.
05-27-2010, 01:26 PM
#75
Have you tried running them yet? Having some bumpsteer typically makes for an easier driving car as well as increasing your turn in. That's why we added the option. If you don't like having increased bumpsteer and prefer zero bumpsteer another thing you can try is using a standard height ball on the inner side of the link and raising it up with a washer underneath of it. This will produce more of the effect you are looking for.
Also, these hubs should not be as "soft" as RPM. As far as I know, RPM does not use any glass in their hub molds, all nylon. This is not the case with ours. They should be plenty stiff for this application.
We left out the front inner bearings and drive pins to keep cost down, plain and simple. And we left out the setscrew because it will cut down on friction and it's not needed (except if your wheel falls off like you mentioned, and even then, it's not guaranteed that you'll lose the pin and barrel nut). We've always left out those setscrews on all of our rc cars and never had an issue.
We went with only one hingepin hole because most people don't use the upper hole.
I'm not trying to start a debate, just explaining why we did what we did. We always appreciate customer feedback and will definitely use what you've said to continue to make better products.
Also, these hubs should not be as "soft" as RPM. As far as I know, RPM does not use any glass in their hub molds, all nylon. This is not the case with ours. They should be plenty stiff for this application.
We left out the front inner bearings and drive pins to keep cost down, plain and simple. And we left out the setscrew because it will cut down on friction and it's not needed (except if your wheel falls off like you mentioned, and even then, it's not guaranteed that you'll lose the pin and barrel nut). We've always left out those setscrews on all of our rc cars and never had an issue.
We went with only one hingepin hole because most people don't use the upper hole.
I'm not trying to start a debate, just explaining why we did what we did. We always appreciate customer feedback and will definitely use what you've said to continue to make better products.
I like maybe having an Option for bumpsteer...i don't however like being FORCED to run more than I want which is what these hubs do. I have ran that setting before(~4 degree change), I changed it to what worked(~2 degree change), and my car was uber dialed. I didn't want to be forced to change anything in the settup. The hubs are a solution to a nonexistent problem though. The 6x11x4 bearings are ordered and these craptastic front hubs will go in the "never to be seen again" bin, lol. I wish there was a way to do the same with the rear, but unfortunately thats not the case. The rears are REAL soft IMO, far softer than any 1/8 scale hubs I've had or anything I've ever seen on a race rig. I will hold final judgement on those till I have more time on them as rear hubs are not nearly as significant in the settup as front hubs. I will however buy some aluminum ones though if you guys decide to make them for the larger bearings. The front hubs will likely be fine for 90% of slash owners, most don't even know what bumpsteer is
let alone why and how to adjust it.As for the rest, you call it reducing cost, I call it being, uhhh, cheap, lol. Whatever makes sleeping better at night for ya I reckon, lol. However, there's no way in Haiti that I believe adding 2 50 cent bearings and some grubs and pins would do anything significant to the final cost. I would have bought the CVD's even had I known about it, not a big deal, just kind of a
moment when you see what's not included.I like the actual cvds though, they are great. Can't ask for anything more from those. Designed perfectly IMO, so kudos in that respect. I'm sure I'll be 100% happy with the whole thing when I have my aluminum front hubs back on and my settup back to normal. Being able to clear the 25 foot double on my hometown track without having to worry about the axles should help get the laptimes even closer to the buggies.
