Team CRC Short Course Conversion for XXX-T based trucks!
05-28-2010, 07:17 AM
#46
as of now, it's still looking good for 6/7. no forseen delays coming.
Blitz bodies seem to fit the best as they are a little wider than SC10 bodies. we haven't tried any slash bodies yet, so not sure there.
john
Blitz bodies seem to fit the best as they are a little wider than SC10 bodies. we haven't tried any slash bodies yet, so not sure there.
john
05-28-2010, 12:00 PM
#48
just picked up a cln mf2 roller will be ordering a conv tonite
05-28-2010, 02:48 PM
#49
ok, here's the setup from the MF2 last night. TQ & won.
I'm going to use some of the letters from the check boxes on the MF2 setup sheet, so if you can't figure out what camber position "B,3" is, download the blank sheet from www.losi.com
Our track is a little bumpy, not blown out. hard packed dirt with some loose stuff on top. We run open tire and 13.5T motors on 2S lipo's.
Front End:
Toe out = 1*
camber link = B,3 - 2 washers under ballstud (.060")
camber = -1.5*
steering tie rod ann bell crank position = stock from the manual
spindle location = top
arm length = long
shocks = .050" limiter inside, red pistons, 35wt oil, orange spring
shock position = 2, middle
Rear End:
battery = 1 piece of foam in the back, 4 in the front
Toe in = stock
anti-squat = 2 shims (2*)
camber link = A,2
camber = -2.5*
rear hub spacing = center
rear arm length = long
shocks = no limiter, orange pistons, 35wt oil, red spring
shock position = 3, middle
I don't have a ride height gauge for offroad
= I set the rear end first so that the bones droop down about 1 mm (by eye) with the high side being at the wheel drooping down to the diff. (i use calipers to measure the distance from the top of the shock body to the spring collars to make sure it is the same right and left). Then i set the front ride height (again, by eye) so that the front end is about 2 mm lower that the rear.
Tires:
front = m4 bowties
rear = super soft goose bumps
geared 23/86 with an spx on profile 5. about 140ft straight. motor comes off after 6 minutes at about 145*
The desert truck was almost the same setup except i didn't have the soft front tires yet. ran stock SC10 front tires with all the washers removed from the front camber link. 2000 wt oil in the gear diff. yellow rear springs. also, you have to limit the down travel more on the front end of the DT. about another .050" of spacers in the front shocks.
John
I'm going to use some of the letters from the check boxes on the MF2 setup sheet, so if you can't figure out what camber position "B,3" is, download the blank sheet from www.losi.com
Our track is a little bumpy, not blown out. hard packed dirt with some loose stuff on top. We run open tire and 13.5T motors on 2S lipo's.
Front End:
Toe out = 1*
camber link = B,3 - 2 washers under ballstud (.060")
camber = -1.5*
steering tie rod ann bell crank position = stock from the manual
spindle location = top
arm length = long
shocks = .050" limiter inside, red pistons, 35wt oil, orange spring
shock position = 2, middle
Rear End:
battery = 1 piece of foam in the back, 4 in the front
Toe in = stock
anti-squat = 2 shims (2*)
camber link = A,2
camber = -2.5*
rear hub spacing = center
rear arm length = long
shocks = no limiter, orange pistons, 35wt oil, red spring
shock position = 3, middle
I don't have a ride height gauge for offroad
= I set the rear end first so that the bones droop down about 1 mm (by eye) with the high side being at the wheel drooping down to the diff. (i use calipers to measure the distance from the top of the shock body to the spring collars to make sure it is the same right and left). Then i set the front ride height (again, by eye) so that the front end is about 2 mm lower that the rear.Tires:
front = m4 bowties
rear = super soft goose bumps
geared 23/86 with an spx on profile 5. about 140ft straight. motor comes off after 6 minutes at about 145*
The desert truck was almost the same setup except i didn't have the soft front tires yet. ran stock SC10 front tires with all the washers removed from the front camber link. 2000 wt oil in the gear diff. yellow rear springs. also, you have to limit the down travel more on the front end of the DT. about another .050" of spacers in the front shocks.
John
06-01-2010, 10:16 AM
#50
still on for 6/7 ?
06-02-2010, 07:08 AM
#51
man I m glad someone made a conversion for the DT
I was thinking I might have to sell it to get a slash
oh and would a slash body fit on it?
I was thinking I might have to sell it to get a slash
oh and would a slash body fit on it?
06-02-2010, 07:16 AM
#52
06-03-2010, 01:38 PM
#56
I've seen a few mentions of the body but haven't see any recommendations yet. Anyone have an idea what would work best?
06-03-2010, 06:57 PM
#57
In the pics they are using a blitz body, so any body made for a blitz should fit.
ie.
http://prolineracing.com/bodies/chev...ody-for-blitz/
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=372
John, do you have pics of your cars?
ie.
http://prolineracing.com/bodies/chev...ody-for-blitz/
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=372
John, do you have pics of your cars?
06-05-2010, 10:28 AM
#58
still lookin to ship out the 7th. right
06-06-2010, 03:26 PM
#59
the 7th? anybody?
