Deans Ultra plugs
05-07-2010, 07:36 AM
#1
Deans Ultra plugs
I ran my lrp 7.4V LiPo 5300 28C using deans ultra plugs from today... are they supposed to get a little hot... or what?
Other info:
Battery: LRP 7.4V LiPo 5300 28C
ESC: LRP Ai Pro
Motor: Eraser brushless 9.5T
Thank you
Other info:
Battery: LRP 7.4V LiPo 5300 28C
ESC: LRP Ai Pro
Motor: Eraser brushless 9.5T
Thank you
05-07-2010, 07:42 AM
#2
Have they just got hot, or has it melted as such?
The only thing to check if you soldered them on yourself, is that both terminals do not have a dry joint, causing heat build up.
I would say if it has only got hot, it is normal.
I would say a 28c 5300 lipo will draw more current through it than any nimh cell, hence the heat build up.
It is just a guess though
The only thing to check if you soldered them on yourself, is that both terminals do not have a dry joint, causing heat build up.
I would say if it has only got hot, it is normal.
I would say a 28c 5300 lipo will draw more current through it than any nimh cell, hence the heat build up.
It is just a guess though
05-07-2010, 07:58 AM
#3
The guy at the LHS did solder them but i guess i would have done it better myself... and am not even actually sure they are deans... they certainly are T-ultra plugs...
05-07-2010, 07:59 AM
#4
Deans plugs are rated to handle a lot of amps, more than the 150A you can push with your battery. I find most times the heat issue comes from your battery having larger wires than your ESC. For instance if your battery has 10gauge wire coming out of it into your plug, then on the ESC side it goes down to 14 gauge wire, then that is restricting the current from the battery and you will get heat from that.
I find some cheap plugs will restrict the current but mostly is the wire size creating the heat.
I find some cheap plugs will restrict the current but mostly is the wire size creating the heat.
05-07-2010, 08:04 AM
#5
There are knock offs that are prone to getting hot & even melting. I have ran (real) Ultra plugs for atleast 10 years now & have never had them get hot in a 1/10 scale application.
A dry solder joint looks like the wire is just sitting on the tab. You want to have a little puddle that completly surrounds all of the wire strands & comes in full contact with the solder tab on the plug.
A dry solder joint looks like the wire is just sitting on the tab. You want to have a little puddle that completly surrounds all of the wire strands & comes in full contact with the solder tab on the plug.
05-07-2010, 09:22 AM
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
I made a big fuss about dean utlra and not wanting to use them with my 6s setup...
I went to ec5s and after a month of coming back and having to resolder an ec5 or replacing one, i went back to deans.
Im still a little hesitant, but after 1 full track day i had zero issues running 2 4s 5000mAh 20c packs on a MMM / 2650kv motor
and zero issues running 6s 5000mAh 35C pack on a mmm/2200kv... so im back on the deans wagon.
I went to ec5s and after a month of coming back and having to resolder an ec5 or replacing one, i went back to deans.
Im still a little hesitant, but after 1 full track day i had zero issues running 2 4s 5000mAh 20c packs on a MMM / 2650kv motor
and zero issues running 6s 5000mAh 35C pack on a mmm/2200kv... so im back on the deans wagon.
05-07-2010, 10:15 AM
#8
I made a big fuss about dean utlra and not wanting to use them with my 6s setup...
I went to ec5s and after a month of coming back and having to resolder an ec5 or replacing one, i went back to deans.
Im still a little hesitant, but after 1 full track day i had zero issues running 2 4s 5000mAh 20c packs on a MMM / 2650kv motor
and zero issues running 6s 5000mAh 35C pack on a mmm/2200kv... so im back on the deans wagon.
I went to ec5s and after a month of coming back and having to resolder an ec5 or replacing one, i went back to deans.
Im still a little hesitant, but after 1 full track day i had zero issues running 2 4s 5000mAh 20c packs on a MMM / 2650kv motor
and zero issues running 6s 5000mAh 35C pack on a mmm/2200kv... so im back on the deans wagon.
05-07-2010, 02:00 PM
#9
RE: EC5
I ordered some a week ago, thinking that it would be better than deans. Hmm - I'm rethinking about it now that I see your post.
I ordered some a week ago, thinking that it would be better than deans. Hmm - I'm rethinking about it now that I see your post.
I made a big fuss about dean utlra and not wanting to use them with my 6s setup...
I went to ec5s and after a month of coming back and having to resolder an ec5 or replacing one, i went back to deans.
Im still a little hesitant, but after 1 full track day i had zero issues running 2 4s 5000mAh 20c packs on a MMM / 2650kv motor
and zero issues running 6s 5000mAh 35C pack on a mmm/2200kv... so im back on the deans wagon.
I went to ec5s and after a month of coming back and having to resolder an ec5 or replacing one, i went back to deans.
Im still a little hesitant, but after 1 full track day i had zero issues running 2 4s 5000mAh 20c packs on a MMM / 2650kv motor
and zero issues running 6s 5000mAh 35C pack on a mmm/2200kv... so im back on the deans wagon.
05-07-2010, 03:08 PM
#10
Deans are only rated for approx. 60-65A actually. But that is continuous current, which you will never see. They will get warm in high load applications, but if the plastic/housing is melting, there's a problem with your setup, soldering, etc.
05-07-2010, 04:23 PM
#11
Tech Addict
If your connectors get more than a little warm, something is wrong.
Different wire sizes are not an issue, no matter what. The only problem is if the wire is just plain too small for the currne,t but if you have #14 on one side and a #8 on the other, it will work just fine as long as they are soldered well and the connector is seating correctly.
The most common problem I am seeing with Deans, Ultra "T" plugs (and more so with the cheapo copies) is if hey get too hot while soldering and the two terminals are no longer at a perfect 90 degree angle to each other. When they are flat the two blades have a very large contact area and have about the same current handling as a #12 wire. But even a tiny angle between the two will reduce the contact area to a thin line, and it will get very hot under load.
I ran Deans on my 1/8 for a little while, but I noticed they were getting easier to pull apart, and when I looked closer, you could tell the heat was causing the little springs to go flat, so there was less tension holding the two blades against each other. I never let them go to where they start to melt. The cheap copy ones seem to melt at a lower temp and go away much faster once things go wrong.
I am now using Bullets, but not just any bullet. Castle CC Bullets. I first used them on my Medusa motor, but I got the 5.5 mm ones and they work great. Then when I got a couple new batteries that have the 4.0 mm sockets in them, I hated the connectors that came with them. The bullets with the thin fingers are sure to fail. All of the current not only has to go through those thin fingers, they need to make two connections in series. The sleave of fingers is not connected to the pin, it is just wrapped around it. I have seen the corner of a battery pack melt because of those connectors. The 4.0 mm CC Bullets are a perfect fit in those batteries. The connection is far better and they run dead cold. On my packs with leads, I installed the 4.0 mm sockets. The Turnigy 4S 4500's I bought came with the 4.0 mm bullets. They use a socket for the positive and a pin for the negative to make sure you can't get it backwards, but their pins are the crappy thin finger style. I cut that half off and installed another socket, since both leads on my ESC's have the CC Bullets pins now.
I use the thin finger typw bullets on my chargers, they are fine for 5 amps, just not 120.
Different wire sizes are not an issue, no matter what. The only problem is if the wire is just plain too small for the currne,t but if you have #14 on one side and a #8 on the other, it will work just fine as long as they are soldered well and the connector is seating correctly.
The most common problem I am seeing with Deans, Ultra "T" plugs (and more so with the cheapo copies) is if hey get too hot while soldering and the two terminals are no longer at a perfect 90 degree angle to each other. When they are flat the two blades have a very large contact area and have about the same current handling as a #12 wire. But even a tiny angle between the two will reduce the contact area to a thin line, and it will get very hot under load.
I ran Deans on my 1/8 for a little while, but I noticed they were getting easier to pull apart, and when I looked closer, you could tell the heat was causing the little springs to go flat, so there was less tension holding the two blades against each other. I never let them go to where they start to melt. The cheap copy ones seem to melt at a lower temp and go away much faster once things go wrong.
I am now using Bullets, but not just any bullet. Castle CC Bullets. I first used them on my Medusa motor, but I got the 5.5 mm ones and they work great. Then when I got a couple new batteries that have the 4.0 mm sockets in them, I hated the connectors that came with them. The bullets with the thin fingers are sure to fail. All of the current not only has to go through those thin fingers, they need to make two connections in series. The sleave of fingers is not connected to the pin, it is just wrapped around it. I have seen the corner of a battery pack melt because of those connectors. The 4.0 mm CC Bullets are a perfect fit in those batteries. The connection is far better and they run dead cold. On my packs with leads, I installed the 4.0 mm sockets. The Turnigy 4S 4500's I bought came with the 4.0 mm bullets. They use a socket for the positive and a pin for the negative to make sure you can't get it backwards, but their pins are the crappy thin finger style. I cut that half off and installed another socket, since both leads on my ESC's have the CC Bullets pins now.
I use the thin finger typw bullets on my chargers, they are fine for 5 amps, just not 120.
05-07-2010, 05:51 PM
#12
I also have the MMM/2650kv in my RC8 and just ordered three 4500mah 4s 30c bats for it. I have deans set up on it right now but I am thinking of trying the 4mm bullet plugs instead on it. Since the batteries come with the bullets already on them with 8gauge wires I am figuring it might be better for me to soldier on the bullet connectors then try to get 8gauge wires on the little deans plug terminal.
05-07-2010, 07:42 PM
#13
05-08-2010, 08:53 AM
#14
so from what i understand... either the joints are not soldered perfectly or my deans are fake 
right?
will make sure to order some deans that are indeed deans...
which e-shops have the original deans?
rcmarket, amainhobbies, rcmushroom
Any of these?
right?will make sure to order some deans that are indeed deans...
which e-shops have the original deans?
rcmarket, amainhobbies, rcmushroom
Any of these?
Last edited by drivehardgopro; 05-08-2010 at 08:54 AM. Reason: forgot some letters :p
05-08-2010, 11:01 AM
#15
Tech Addict
Even the fake deans copies work fairly well if they are carefully soldered and not over heated. Once the connector shell melts at all, the pins twist a bit and the contac area is crap. You need to replace the connector and try again. You may need to check both, the one on your ESC could also be the problem. Is it only one pack getting hot, or all of them? Any reasonable local hobby shop should be able to get you some real Deans if they do not stock them, or you can order them from Horizon, Hobby People, or Tower. I am sure there are some cheaper online places with real Deans, and of course the super cheap ones are the knock offs.
I like to clamp the connector housing in a vice, this helps keep it cool also, and use a powerful hot soldering iron, not a gun. A heavy element and tip will hold it's temp when you touch it to the terminal, this will heat the metal tab quick, get the solder melting and flow a good joint so you can get back off fast. This will reduce the chance of the shell melting at all.
I like to clamp the connector housing in a vice, this helps keep it cool also, and use a powerful hot soldering iron, not a gun. A heavy element and tip will hold it's temp when you touch it to the terminal, this will heat the metal tab quick, get the solder melting and flow a good joint so you can get back off fast. This will reduce the chance of the shell melting at all.