armourbl

iTrader: (44)

Just because they are fast, doesn't make them smart! Venom might not be the high-dollar flashy item to run, but that doesn't make them crap either. These debates are about as common here as oil debates are on the dirtbike forums I view. Same thing there, tons of guys running expensive oil because it makes them feel good, while others are running less expensive oil and getting the same or better longevity. Its your money...

Although CC says the 2650Kv is intended for 4S, it doesn't mean you can't run 6S. Correct gearing would certainly be key, as well as car weight, etc. They also recommend Elite batteries, and the minimum C ratings contradict themselve on the website and in their printed materials.

ben

V0RT3X

iTrader: (8)

Neu still has a sale on their lipos, not sure if 4S options are still in stock. But the prices aren't that bad. You can look at Hyperion G3 VX 4S (150$) or some Turnigy 40C at Hobbycity (around 50$)

Duster_360

iTrader: (21)

The Pres of Castle is somewhat of a regular poster on RCM and he's said more than once they do not recommend lipo brands. What you were told was the person you were talking to personal recommendation. Last post by Patrick on the subject said he would be pretty upset with any employee recommending a particular brand.

Elites are Chinese and if they're as good as their NiMh cells, there shouldn't be any probs with the lipo if you get a higher enough amp capacity to meet the motors demand and keep the stress off the esc.

There's a number of guys running turnigy and zippy lipos in Fluxes that post about excellent results with them also on RCM.

jmcvicker

iTrader: (2)

2650KV is very fast for racing on 3S batteries. On 4S even faster.

3200mah 14.8v 4-Cell - at 30C, that is roughly 90A draw + 14.8v = about 1400watts. The 2650kv motor can peak out higher than that and you either overdrew the battery or it crushed the internal solder tabs causing a short.

Try running a 5000mAh 3S 30C lipo - they work well and with the right gearing, are fine for racing the 2650KV.

One issue with the technology is braking power - when on the brakes, the battery needs to take the impulse very fast - it's like extreme fast-charging the battery. If you hit the brakes hard a lot with the battery, it could also fry the ESC's electronics if the battery cannot take the charge fast enough. Castle president had a great thread on this in the forum on monster-rc.com a while back.

gtsakiris

iTrader: (21)

you were under amp'ed. you need to run no less than 120amps. "C" times mah=amp. If you were under 100 which you were at 96amps you cooked the battery. Yeah I would count on venom unless that all youcan afford and then gear accordingly. I run the same motor combo, but with a 13/46. No less than 25c and 5000 mah. I never had one issue or even a puffed pack yet, with three diff brands that I run. SMC, MaxAmp, MRC. Keep your packs to that or you can go lower in mah but you then need to go higher in "C' to like a 35-40C. Good luck

TeamJammin!

Castle techs still say my battery specs were fine. This picture says differant


http://burnnitro.net:2429/DSC01372.JPG

whitrzac

iTrader: (97)

lets think abou this...

motor=good
esc=good
gearing=ok
batter= POS!!!


or you just got a bad battery, mabey it was out of ballance, or mabey its just a POS battery....

suzuki2903

iTrader: (-1)

glad i saw this thread, i too had a venom 5000 30c hard case lipo catch fire on me last night in my sc10 within 5 minutes of run time. using a novak havok and 17.5 motor with 28/75 gearing temps never over 130. 3rd time using this battery and poof. made sure my truck was good and threw in my check point battery the rest of the evening for practise and no problem. i always balance my lipos during charge too. waiting to hear back from venom about their pos lipo.

ShagNastyEk9

iTrader: (36)

i have been using Venom Lipos recently in racing conditions with ZERO problems. I have also used some of the cheapest most crappy lipos out there and have only had 1 go poof and that was my fault (starter box and letting it get way too low, swelled up and popped). I use them in 1/8 electric buggy, 1/8 nitro reciever packs, 1/8 nitro starter box, 1/10 sc10, 1/10 4wd buggy, and 1/10 touring. I have been balance charging my packs at 10amps also. I have had zero issues and they are always within a tenth of a volt per cell. People that have packs pop regardless of brand generally it is due to some other problem: binding somewhere causeing excessive load, packs not rated to handle the high current draws of big motor 1/8 systems, poor gearing choices, motors going bad, poor wiring connections, etc.