SpEEdyBL

iTrader: (1)

I didn't mention the fact that I have also tried the MM Pro with the Tekin 1900 using the sensors. As far as I could tell, I didn't notice a difference in performance verses the MMM, but I was having the same bec issue as AndrewClaycomb with the MM Pro and my 9100S servo - probably a unit to unit issue because apparently the MM Pro and the MMM have the same bec and my MMM (V2) bec has been working flawlessly since the day I bought it about a year and a half ago. The solution to this is just to run a something like a "glitch buster" capacitor on the Rx to prevent the bec's over current protector from kicking in. Nonetheless Castle claims to be putting improved bec units in their most recent MMM (V5).

As far as temps go, the last time i've had a fan function on my MMM was about 6 months ago and never bothered to replace it. The fan on the MM Pro doesn't even come close to turning on.

The real key is to run the right kv motor and 0 degrees timing and gear up to get the speed you need. My tekin 1900 usually runs around 105 to 125F on 4s and I can easily get by with a 3000 mah pack for 10 minute mains and a 4000 mah pack for 15 min mains indoor. My 8ight weighs around 7 to 7 1/4 lb due to the decreased weight of those packs.

4s - 1700 to 2000
5s - 1500 to 1900
6s - 1200 to 1500
... and you shouldn't have any problems.

GSMnow

I have not made an official race yet, but I hope to very soon. I do have a bit over an hour of track time, with runs as long as 16 minutes with no issues at all. My electronincs package is a bit "old school" for 1/8. I am using the good old Mamba Max classic. I run 4S and use an external switching BEC to run the radio gear. I added a small 25mm x 25mm x 10 mm fan on top of the ESC for a little safety margin. My current motor is a Medusa 36x50 3300 KV geared way down to top out about 38 mph. It is a very smooth setup with plenty of power for and average sized course. Even on long run, the temps settle in at 130 on the ESC and 150 ish on the motor. I ordered a Neu (ex Tekno) 1512 2050 to upgrade the motor a bit for when it gets over 100F out here in Santa Clarita. Even with the small motor I am seeing peaks to over 1500 watts with a lap average topping 260 watts when I run a good line. With the lack of a slipper clutch and the weight of these cars, the surge currents are much higher than a 1/10 setup. The little old Mamba Max though has proven to be rock solid and the new Pro shuld be just about as good. Yes, if the fan quite, you may thermal out, where the MMM just may finish the race without a fan, but they actually spec out the same internal resistance, so there is no real difference in how they handle the current besides the Monster having a bigger heat sink. I will report how different the feel is between the high revving 3300 and the 2050. I almost went with a 2400 in the shorter 1209 can, but was talked out of it due to the high ambient temp we get around here in the summer. I don't like the feel of a "too powerful" setup as it makes them just too easy to spin tires with the flick of a finger. I tried both a MMM 2200 and 2650 setup on 4S and they were nearly impossible to get quick acceleration without spinning the tires. The torque was near instant from any speed. The owners of both crs though, liked it that hair trigger and had quick enough reactions that it didn't hurt them as much as it did me. On the flip side, I have let 3 people run a few laps on my small motor setup, and they all liked the smooth power that makes it easy to get away fast without spinning the tires with only a little care needed. It is still enough power to light them all up if you slam it, but docile enough to keep it in check. I sure hope the 1512 2050 is closer to my small motor than the Castle Neu 2200. The 2650 was odd in that it seemed to snal as hard as the 2200 even in a smaller 1512 can.

I do have to recomend staying with 4S. If not for any other reason, that is the rules at quite a few tracks since ROAR put it in their rules. I have always liked higher voltage, and a 6S setup would certainly run cooler for the same power. With 50% more voltage though, I feel it will end up with a hair trigger again. I keep looking at the RC-Monster Slipperential. It may be a good cure for the current surges and hair trigger issues in one shot. Slippers in 1/10 have transformed how much power you can actually use and made gears and electronics live far longer than they did before slippers. The big mass of a 1/8 seems like it would be even more in demand. I already broke a pinion gear , but with my high reving motor it was only a 9 tooth with a very slim root where it cracked, but it wost likely would have lived fine with a slipper.

AndrewClaycomb

iTrader: (10)

To fight wheel spin, I've started using the punch limiter on the speed controller and the exponential control on my radio. I try to get the speedo as close as possible and then while I'm on the drivers stand I can fine tune everything from the radio.

SoCalMitch

Tekin RX8: The best speed controller for 1/8 scale, but I have had three of them each repaired four times each. The Tekin motor is the best motor for sensor or sensorless. The Tekin 1900 on 4S is a good indoor or outdoor combo.

Mamba Monster: Bullet proof, great for large outdoor tracks, but because of being sensorless has less of a feel at the bottom end, not great for indoor technical tracks. The trigger pull is not always exactly the same each time, some referred to it as a light switch. The Mamba 2650 motor is a lot of motor on 4S.

LRP SPX8: Good, small, smooth, but the BEC setup is a little confusing. I went from a 4S to two 2S so I could just connect the BEC wire to the jumper between the two batteries. The LRP 2800 motor is good, smooth but less powerful than a Tekin 1900 and runs really hot even with the supplied fan.

I just started using the LRP setup with a LRP 2800 and Tekin 1900 motor. The LRP motor will not fit correctly in my Ve8 because the stock motor mount is too thick and the motor shaft is too short.

moto67e

iTrader: (39)

Thanks for all the replies. It sounds like it there are a lot of ways to go with this. I have decided to go with a Tekin RX8 1900 combo. The main reason was the customer support. For the guys running indoor tracks, what do you think would be a good pinion size for this running a 4s battery and the 1900 motor. Thanks again.

GSMnow

Be careful with punch control (at least on the Castle stuff). If all you do is drive fast on a flat surface, you can use the punch control to dial in the maximum acceleration without lighting up the tires. BUT... If you take a lot of jumps, especially ones where you are air born a bit, you may find the problem I did. Punch control limits the fastest the motor is told to speed up. If you start going nose down, the normal fix is to give it throttle so the tire spin up causes the nose to rise so you can land flat. With just 40% punch control, this was impossiblein my trick. I have found about 10% punch to be about the most I can use to sill have good in air control with my Mamba Max powered cars. I am not sure how this works on the other brands. Current limiting punch control would be better as unloaded tires would still spin up for you, but the Mamba Max punch is strictly a time/speed slope limiter.

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

Yup, I had the same problem. With punch control jacked up, the car doesn't respond well in the air if you are nose down and need to bring it up by blipping the throttle.