Recommend brushless esc, motor, and servo for B4 FT
01-28-2010, 06:19 PM
#1
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
Recommend brushless esc, motor, and servo for B4 FT
Considering building a FT B4. This would be specifically for racing.
Would be running either a 17.5 to race stock or anything faster to race modified.
Not too keen on 13.5; they get lumped in with modified when there aren't enough entries for the super-stock class.
Would I get bored with a 17.5? They look kinda pokey. I currently run 1/8 electric now.
Also looking for servo options. Don't know anything about 1/10 buggy.
Opinions?
Update:
ended up deciding on Tekin RS & Redline 10.5 to run mod in. I know I'd have a better chance running stock with Tekin's advance timing on a 17.5, but after driving both 17.5 & 13.5, I find them to be too slow and no fun. Been told the Tekin RS & 10.5 will run with 8.5s. I like the customization options. I also (flame away) prefer to have reverse given a choice, on my cars.
will be running the Associated 1015 servo as well
Would run the SXX & 8.5 if not this setup. Learned that the LRP motors are torquier and slower than other makes.
Would be running either a 17.5 to race stock or anything faster to race modified.
Not too keen on 13.5; they get lumped in with modified when there aren't enough entries for the super-stock class.
Would I get bored with a 17.5? They look kinda pokey. I currently run 1/8 electric now.
Also looking for servo options. Don't know anything about 1/10 buggy.
Opinions?
Update:
ended up deciding on Tekin RS & Redline 10.5 to run mod in. I know I'd have a better chance running stock with Tekin's advance timing on a 17.5, but after driving both 17.5 & 13.5, I find them to be too slow and no fun. Been told the Tekin RS & 10.5 will run with 8.5s. I like the customization options. I also (flame away) prefer to have reverse given a choice, on my cars.
will be running the Associated 1015 servo as well
Would run the SXX & 8.5 if not this setup. Learned that the LRP motors are torquier and slower than other makes.
Last edited by lusifur; 02-07-2010 at 12:49 PM.
01-28-2010, 06:23 PM
#2
Considering building a FT B4. This would be specifically for racing.
Would be running either a 17.5 to race stock or anything faster to race modified.
Not too keen on 13.5; they get lumped in with modified when there aren't enough entries for the super-stock class.
Would I get bored with a 17.5? They look kinda pokey. I currently run 1/8 electric now.
Also looking for servo options. Don't know anything about 1/10 buggy.
Opinions?
Would be running either a 17.5 to race stock or anything faster to race modified.
Not too keen on 13.5; they get lumped in with modified when there aren't enough entries for the super-stock class.
Would I get bored with a 17.5? They look kinda pokey. I currently run 1/8 electric now.
Also looking for servo options. Don't know anything about 1/10 buggy.
Opinions?
01-28-2010, 06:38 PM
#4
For a 2wd application the RS pro is not necessary, so save some money and buy the RS. The pro should be used in 4wd or very low number turn applications.
As for the motor, with the rs esc, 13.5 should be perfect 10.5 may be a little much.
As for coming from 8th yes I believe the 17.5 may be slow for you.
As for the motor, with the rs esc, 13.5 should be perfect 10.5 may be a little much.
As for coming from 8th yes I believe the 17.5 may be slow for you.
01-28-2010, 07:49 PM
#5
lrp sxx stock spec,associated 1015 servo,lrp x12 13.5,reedy 5000 35c
01-28-2010, 07:53 PM
#6
Sean,
Personally, I would run a 4600Kv in there or a 13.5. A 10.5 is a lot of motor for such a light car...
17.5 might be good for your buggy if you're planning on racing stock.
As for servo, I run Associated's DS1015 all the way. I have them in 3 out of four of my vehicles. The last one, an on-road car, I run an Associated DS1313.
ACE/Thunder Tiger is the same servo...
But a 10.5 is a heck a lot of motor, and you can gear the heck out of 13.5s in your B4 to keep up with the 10.5.
Personally, I would run a 4600Kv in there or a 13.5. A 10.5 is a lot of motor for such a light car...
17.5 might be good for your buggy if you're planning on racing stock.
As for servo, I run Associated's DS1015 all the way. I have them in 3 out of four of my vehicles. The last one, an on-road car, I run an Associated DS1313.
ACE/Thunder Tiger is the same servo...
But a 10.5 is a heck a lot of motor, and you can gear the heck out of 13.5s in your B4 to keep up with the 10.5.
01-28-2010, 07:55 PM
#7
Yes on the servo and battery but get the Tekin RS with 10.5 Until another company comes out with software like Tekin they will be top of the line. The 10.5 will be fast enough to be fun, slow enough to be controllable after you learn how to drive it. 1/8e is as far from 2wd buggy as you can get IMO so it takes some getting used to.
01-28-2010, 08:00 PM
#8
duo 10.5 (or equiv class-based turn. 13.5 with mods on indoor tracks is just fine. nowadays speedo prgm'g can help get u some of that back. but again its all about driver).
futaba 9551 (slim, fast, good price, tough)
tekin rs or castle MMP. could go with a havoc on the cheap-real smooth and no frills
futaba 9551 (slim, fast, good price, tough)
tekin rs or castle MMP. could go with a havoc on the cheap-real smooth and no frills
01-28-2010, 08:18 PM
#9
Tech Regular
Thread Starter
I have a Castle 4600 I can pull out of my Slash. I was told it was too uncontrollable in a 2wd buggy. I run it fine in my Slash with the programming on full traction control (basically, lag).
Would it be usable in a B4? It would save me a buck and a half.
Again, it's for racing.
Definitely considering the DS1015 or DS1313. For $15 more, is the 1015 the better deal?
Would it be usable in a B4? It would save me a buck and a half.
Again, it's for racing.
Definitely considering the DS1015 or DS1313. For $15 more, is the 1015 the better deal?
Last edited by lusifur; 01-28-2010 at 08:37 PM.
01-29-2010, 05:12 AM
#11
Tech Regular
Yes it's definetly usable, depending on your skill level. It is still very powerfull and fast and needs to be driven with finess...
I'm racing a B4FT in modified with a 4600Kv MM setup, geared 78T/24T, and the esc set to 50% punch control. It gives me all the power and speed I can use... Anybody pulling away from me... it isn't because of the motor... It's the driver...
How's your trigger finger? If you think you have decent control, go for it. if not, maybe less of a motor would be a good idea. But if you already have the 4600, why not give it a try? The worst that will happen is you'll realise you need a new motor!!!! At best, you'll do fine with it...
Just my 0.02$
I'm racing a B4FT in modified with a 4600Kv MM setup, geared 78T/24T, and the esc set to 50% punch control. It gives me all the power and speed I can use... Anybody pulling away from me... it isn't because of the motor... It's the driver...
How's your trigger finger? If you think you have decent control, go for it. if not, maybe less of a motor would be a good idea. But if you already have the 4600, why not give it a try? The worst that will happen is you'll realise you need a new motor!!!! At best, you'll do fine with it...
Just my 0.02$
I have a Castle 4600 I can pull out of my Slash. I was told it was too uncontrollable in a 2wd buggy. I run it fine in my Slash with the programming on full traction control (basically, lag).
Would it be usable in a B4? It would save me a buck and a half.
Again, it's for racing.
Definitely considering the DS1015 or DS1313. For $15 more, is the 1015 the better deal?
Would it be usable in a B4? It would save me a buck and a half.
Again, it's for racing.
Definitely considering the DS1015 or DS1313. For $15 more, is the 1015 the better deal?
01-29-2010, 09:12 AM
#12
I agree with "if you already have a 4600, try it". I Started racing an Academy GV2 last summer. It was my first time on a track ever. I have a 4600 in it geared 22/83. Cleared most jumps with just a blip. Traction control is set on low.
Seasoned racers drove it and said infield speed was perfect but had to much straightaway. On their advice I turned down the endpoint to slow it down. Recently I dropped to 20/83 and turned the endpoint back up, and the car is smooth and much easier to drive. Can't wait to try it on a track.
Codman - Not sure if a B4 fdr is much different then academy, but if i geared it 24/78 it would be way to much. Dont need all that top end and its going to make traction hard to find. You might find you can drop the punch control down by changing your gearing. I know I did.
Seasoned racers drove it and said infield speed was perfect but had to much straightaway. On their advice I turned down the endpoint to slow it down. Recently I dropped to 20/83 and turned the endpoint back up, and the car is smooth and much easier to drive. Can't wait to try it on a track.
Codman - Not sure if a B4 fdr is much different then academy, but if i geared it 24/78 it would be way to much. Dont need all that top end and its going to make traction hard to find. You might find you can drop the punch control down by changing your gearing. I know I did.
01-29-2010, 09:57 AM
#13
Tech Regular
The B4 has a 2.6 internal ratio (if I recall correctly), which gives me 8.45 final drive, which is right in the theoretical ball park (from what I know). Feeling wise, it very nice as it is! And temps are great (140 max), so I have no incline to change it for now. But I get what you mean by having an easier time with the trigger if I lower the gearing... There are so many variables you can play with to get the job done...
I agree with "if you already have a 4600, try it". I Started racing an Academy GV2 last summer. It was my first time on a track ever. I have a 4600 in it geared 22/83. Cleared most jumps with just a blip. Traction control is set on low.
Seasoned racers drove it and said infield speed was perfect but had to much straightaway. On their advice I turned down the endpoint to slow it down. Recently I dropped to 20/83 and turned the endpoint back up, and the car is smooth and much easier to drive. Can't wait to try it on a track.
Codman - Not sure if a B4 fdr is much different then academy, but if i geared it 24/78 it would be way to much. Dont need all that top end and its going to make traction hard to find. You might find you can drop the punch control down by changing your gearing. I know I did.
Seasoned racers drove it and said infield speed was perfect but had to much straightaway. On their advice I turned down the endpoint to slow it down. Recently I dropped to 20/83 and turned the endpoint back up, and the car is smooth and much easier to drive. Can't wait to try it on a track.
Codman - Not sure if a B4 fdr is much different then academy, but if i geared it 24/78 it would be way to much. Dont need all that top end and its going to make traction hard to find. You might find you can drop the punch control down by changing your gearing. I know I did.
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