Durango DEX210 Thread
#1952
#1955
Can anyone point me to the part numbers for the ' better' ball studs and cups? Or the post where this might already be stated.
Thanks
Thanks
#1956
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
#1957
Thanks, so youre saying the older style ball cups are better than the newer 'heavy duty' ones?
#1958
Tech Master
iTrader: (121)
#1960
Also, those jconcept ballcups have always been a little stiff to me. I kinda like the softer AE ones that actually bend real easy, enabling you to finish the race, then replace once in the pits. A bend is better than popping off or breaking a ballstud or whatever. Just sayin'.
#1961
AE Gear Diff
those of you who installed the AE gear diff:
which bearings and shims did you need to properly install it into the gearbox?
kind regards
which bearings and shims did you need to properly install it into the gearbox?
kind regards
#1962
DEX210 w/ Tamiya servo saver
Here is a few pictures of my newly finished DEX210. No problems where encountered during the build, except a few missing screws (no problem as I have a large inventory of screws from tonys screws). I still have to fit the motor/esc/rx and glue the tires.
The car is stock except that I have fitted the Tamiya #51000 hi torque servo saver. Hopefully this will reduce the problem with the front links popping of.
The car will be run on a tight indoor carpet track.
The car is stock except that I have fitted the Tamiya #51000 hi torque servo saver. Hopefully this will reduce the problem with the front links popping of.
The car will be run on a tight indoor carpet track.
#1963
Here is a few pictures of my newly finished DEX210. No problems where encountered during the build, except a few missing screws (no problem as I have a large inventory of screws from tonys screws). I still have to fit the motor/esc/rx and glue the tires.
The car is stock except that I have fitted the Tamiya #51000 hi torque servo saver. Hopefully this will reduce the problem with the front links popping of.
The car will be run on a tight indoor carpet track.
The car is stock except that I have fitted the Tamiya #51000 hi torque servo saver. Hopefully this will reduce the problem with the front links popping of.
The car will be run on a tight indoor carpet track.
#1964
It will rub slightly without trimming it (lifting the body 2-3mm in front. I will not use the front body-clips, but in stead use Velcro (that will in any case lift the body).
You can in any case trim/bevel the edge of the saver and get the body to sit flush if you like.
Google is your friend! You will also find it on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=....c0.m270.l1313
You can in any case trim/bevel the edge of the saver and get the body to sit flush if you like.
Google is your friend! You will also find it on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=....c0.m270.l1313
#1965
ok, so my 210 will be here friday so here is what i am gathering needs to be addressed right off the bat, yes i could probably search it but this is much easier!
rear shock tower is weak so i will immediately make a new one and nip that in the bud!
ballcups are suspect but it seems that aligning them and pre-threading the holes helps alot, which makes sense.
what is the final verdict on the wheel hexes and wheels? do i need to make some adapters with different size hexes?
i already have the ID clips coming from mcmaster for the ball dif issues, is that all that is needed? what size are the dif balls?
has anyone in America even bothered with mid-motor?
rear shock tower is weak so i will immediately make a new one and nip that in the bud!
ballcups are suspect but it seems that aligning them and pre-threading the holes helps alot, which makes sense.
what is the final verdict on the wheel hexes and wheels? do i need to make some adapters with different size hexes?
i already have the ID clips coming from mcmaster for the ball dif issues, is that all that is needed? what size are the dif balls?
has anyone in America even bothered with mid-motor?
anyone??