Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

That won't affect pack. Pack you get from the size and shape of the holes and how they create turbulence... not the number of them.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

So I TRIED, and I TRIED, and I TRIED, and I TRIED, and I TRIED to build my shocks without any air in them, and I just can't do it. I use to pride myself on being an expert shock builder with whatever kit I was currently running... but these shocks sound like they have been leaking for a year

"squish smoooosh.. squish smoooosh.." (Thats what they sound like... towards the top of the stroke)

Heck, I can even build an AE shock perfectly velvety smooth without an ounce of air in them... Anybody figure out the magic secret to these guys?

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Are you putting enough oil in them or putting a drop or two in the cap before sealing them up?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Yep.. for those of you about to start your build, there are a few mistakes. The length of a pair of screws up front is wrong... (this had me digging all over the place for the right screws) and all the little baby screws are labeled as needing a 1.5mm allen, when they are actually 0.5.... and there are some others, but nothing that will keep you from finishing the build.

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

My new Orion R10 pro and setting box just arrived in my office! This is going in the 210.

grapejuice

iTrader: (152)

The best thing I have figured is when compressing the shock shaft to bleed them, don't push it all the way in before putting the bleed screw in, leave about 1/4" of shaft showing and hold it so oil is up to the top of the bleed hole, then put the screw in. Usually works for me and still gives very minimal rebound.

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

Wow, no pictures of the 210 from new owners.

jzemaxx

iTrader: (5)

Anyone try one of these on a dry loose track?? I have tested the Losi 22, and also the B4.1. The 22 flat was WAY better and actually had rear traction in dry and loose conditions, where the B4.1 would kick out bad under accel.. Wondering how this car will do or if anyone has even tried it yet?

grapejuice

iTrader: (152)

That too, make sure to have the shock shaft about half way in and have enough oil as to where it is about to spill over so there is a bit of a bubble shape before screwing the cap on.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Yep, just like my AEs, I fill the body completely, and the cap completely, side by side... screw them together as fast as I can, and the shock is locked up. put pressure on the shaft while backing out the bleed screw till the extra oil is bled out. then usually that has to be repeated a couple of times till the cap can be fully threaded.

you would THINK the process would introduce no air, but alas... nasty squeky shocks at the top of the stroke...

what am i missing?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Yeah... i think you're right... I was trying to get every ounce of rebound out of the shock, and inevitably, somewhere towards the end... air gets sucked back in.

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

Ok here's how I do it. I take the shock body and fill it up, bleed out all the air, let it sit for at least 2 minutes to make sure there is non trapped in the body.

Now take the shock cap, install the screw just enough that it won't fall out, say 3 turns.

Next hold the body very steady and fill it up enough to where there is a "dome" of oil. This will dome up enough to stand above the body so don't spill it!

Next screw the shock cap down while still keeping the body 100% upright. DO not lean it over at all. Snug the cap down fully.

While still holding the shock up right loosen the screw while pushing the shock shaft down onto the table SLOWLY! DO not go fast, the slower the better here. If you've done this right there will be a very little bit of oil from the front shocks coming out when bled. The rears will displace more oil so more oil will come out of the bleeder so don't worry.

The biggest part of this is to never never never lay the shock on it's side. Keep the air at the top of the shock cap at all times.

In the end you will always have some air in the shock since they're emulsion shocks. But you should be able to get the air/oil to mix within 2 shock cycles and the "noise" should be gone.

If this doesn't describe it well enough let me know and I will take pictures.

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

I found it helps to tilt the shock so that the bleed hole is pointed up. I think if the shock is vertical a small amount of air gets trapped in the cap. Also, when building new shocks i usually fill them up and stroke ot a few times and then dump it and start over so that I get every bit of the body/cap covered with oil. Then refill and bleed them.

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Hmmmm. Explanation there? I figured less holes would create more pack along with more roll resistance since the same amount of oil has to travel through less holes.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

Are these shocks the same as the 410's? If so, I could never get them smooth.

They'd be smooth as glass until 75-85% compression, and SQQQQUUUIIIISSSSSHh.