EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Just a quick question for the guys that run this buggy in the mod class.

Any one of you running it with the slipper eliminator using Kimbrough spur gears?

I installed one when I was racing 17.5 but not sure if I should go back to a slipper for mod class.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Normally you wouldn't run a slipper eliminator in mod class. Too much power.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Aww shoot I thought that might be the case. I guess I might as well try it out in practice since I've got three extra kimbrough spurs to use that aren't compatible with the TD slipper.

WallyRC

Thanks Cain for that info. I have that in my binder. I tuned my sons car and we went to the track today. Just got back.
Best it handled ever, according to him:
Front 2x1.5, 25wt, yokomo pink.
Rear 2x1.6, 27.5wt, Kyosho white.

We run on indoor packed dirt, moist, med-high. Bumpy with. Big jumps.
Steering was a little twitchy when I drove it but he liked it.

EDIT: I had a set of brand new gull wing front arms that I threw on it. Big difference. Allows for the up travel Fred has been talking about.

Alan_r

I didn't read back but you're running the V2 with V3 front arms? You guys have me exploring this up travel phenomenon.

micholix

Hi Alan, i guess he is running a v2/v3, with the gull wing a-arms from the v1.

Actually, there are not much differents between the v2 and the v3, its even the same box with an v3 sticker on it, they just throw some new parts in the box, mostly for the rear end, like the multi axles, the 12 mm hexes and things like that!

Alan_r

Thanks man, yeah I was just trying to figure out the different combos for ideas. If you remember back when I was working with my V3, I had missed some if the V3 parts bags because I didn't see the small additional instructions. I built it according to the manual so in essence, I started out with the V2 I guess. Still learning these Durango's lol. There are major differences between my V3 and V1 though. Still deciding on a motor configuration and power system for the V1. It does not need a full restoration so it'll be on the track soon. Originally I was going to do RM4 and bought a Tekin RSX with Redline Gen3 7.5 for it. But now I'm thinking RM3 with a TrackStar 10.5 system. The idea is that any track where I need the traction of a RM car won't need the power of a 7.5, the 10.5 with some boost on the top end being sufficient instead.

micholix

One thing to know about the differeces from the v1 to the v2/3 is also the chassis length, the original v1 is -8 mm in chassis length, so would be a good chassis for small indoor tracks with allot of tight turns, or u-turns!

If you like, i can try to sume up the differences between the v1 till the v3?

Alan_r

No I got it man. One thing Team Durango did well was create an awesome website! I get excited just reading things on it. Great marketing! That was another reason I picked up the V1. I've noticed that a shorter chassis allows for easier weight transfer without the negative effects of too much. This helps immensely with rear traction. On a side note, I've got an RC10B3 Sport powered by a Novak Vulcan 13.5 geared 26/81 @ 40°. When traction is up, the car carries the front wheels for 6' coming out of turns. Short wheelbase with a soft suspension setup provides forward traction for days. I'm going to do the DEX210V1 like that only with a little more power. The thing about outdoor tracks is that you really have to help prepared for huge variations in traction as the track goes from green to cooked back to cold and damp again all in one day. There's been times where my B5M was hot all day, but the B5 was the better choice after dark. Just applying what has worked for me in the past with my AE stuff. I've seen guys swapping MM trannys for RM in between heats. I'd rather just swap cars.

banx

if you don't mind that would be a huge help. I think some of the parts that came with this used car are from different durango vehicles. in particular the turnbuckles.... my manual i think is v1, but it had a gear diff installed.

are the v3 gull wing arms different than v1?

micholix

Ok, i'll try and hope to forget nothing, may someone can coorect me, if i'm wrong, or forgot somthing.
I'll only go into the major parts, not different body shells, or the newer ball studs, ok?

Front end:
V1- gull wing a-arms and 23 mm shock bodys with 44 mm shock shafts
V2 and v3 a flat a-arms and 21.5 mm shock bodys and 42.5 mm shafts the front tower is leaning a bit to the rear, to get easier to the chamber ball studs, no changes in geometry

Chassis: v2 and v3 have +8 mm in length of the chassis compared to the v1 and the side pots have a s shape

Rear end:
V2 and v3 have the -2 rr hanger and the diff case was improofed, especially at the chamber link mount, they have now two mounting holes, v1 had only one and tend to brake at this point!
Also the rear sway bar mount was decoupled for the gear box, at the v1 it was built in the gear box.
Rear tower is lower at the shock top mounting points.

V3 is actually an v2 with the new drive line parts, like multi axles, new drive shafts, 12 mm hexes and the front stearing nockles with built in bearings, v1 had the bearing in the wheels.

Type B parts, are the updated parts from the original v1 parts!

Thats about it....

banx

thanks for that

micholix

Oh, i forgot some things!

V1 had 31 mm rear shock bodys and 55 mm shock shafts, the v2 and v3 had same body, but 52 mm shafts!
Also the v2 and v3 got the new rear a-arms, where you have the possibility to mount the shocks at the front and the rear of the arms and a fiew other updated composit parts, like the waterfall gear brace and some smaler parts, these are all named as type B parts!

If you use the type B gear box, you will need also the type B braces, or you have to modify them to fit.

Here is a nice Team Durango Parts Cross Reference Table:
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/xref...s-xref-usa.pdf

banx

that chart is great.


well i have v2 or 3 rear arms, and rear shocks from a different durango installed. so I will put the stock rear shocks back on.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I just picked up an Exotek chassis conversion on ebay for $45.