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Old 12-09-2014, 10:47 PM
  #15526  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
There TD springs thinking about it i could of treaded it all the way up and got 20mm i was in a hurry though my race was coming up . The push i was talking when i tried a Slick on the Rear and a Ion in the Front (Clay) . With Slicks all around there was hardly any push inless i over drove , last weekend the track was tacky and stayed moist all day.

Im using 32w (F) and 30w (R) with the stock springs and tried the stiffer spring with the 30w oil in the rear shocks i like the stiffer spring a little more haven't tried the stiffer spring on the Front yet. I do have my ESC in the back of the Shorty pack 2nd time driving with it i like it you can drive it a little harder with more rotation .

My droop i haven't done the measurement but the Front and Rear the screws are just touching a little on the chassis not full.
Let me ask you a trick question.
Shock collars on the bottom. Which ones you have on front and rear. You know they are not the same. THere are ones marked with "0" the other says "2" if you put the wrong ones on, your collars will be very off.
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Old 12-09-2014, 11:40 PM
  #15527  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
Let me ask you a trick question.
Shock collars on the bottom. Which ones you have on front and rear. You know they are not the same. THere are ones marked with "0" the other says "2" if you put the wrong ones on, your collars will be very off.


Il look at it and see.
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Old 12-13-2014, 08:46 AM
  #15528  
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Hi,
I just assembled the v2 and had it race on a local track yesterday. I did not managed to finish both of my heats due to my rear shock shaft keeps popping out of its ball end. There were 3 of us running the v2 and all of us had the same problem.

I resorted to apply some superglue to the threads but to no avail.

Is it a common problem? And is there any solution to it?
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Old 12-13-2014, 09:09 AM
  #15529  
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Originally Posted by darkdays
Hi,
I just assembled the v2 and had it race on a local track yesterday. I did not managed to finish both of my heats due to my rear shock shaft keeps popping out of its ball end. There were 3 of us running the v2 and all of us had the same problem.

I resorted to apply some superglue to the threads but to no avail.

Is it a common problem? And is there any solution to it?
Wierd. Can you post a picture pls ?
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:04 PM
  #15530  
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Originally Posted by darkdays
Hi,
I just assembled the v2 and had it race on a local track yesterday. I did not managed to finish both of my heats due to my rear shock shaft keeps popping out of its ball end. There were 3 of us running the v2 and all of us had the same problem.

I resorted to apply some superglue to the threads but to no avail.

Is it a common problem? And is there any solution to it?
I went back to the old shock ends and that fixed my issues, #TD330293.
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Old 12-13-2014, 03:22 PM
  #15531  
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Cant say i ever had that issue with the V2 version.
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Old 12-13-2014, 04:27 PM
  #15532  
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Does anybody know what would work to use 12mm hexs on the Rear end ? Without a ton of mods at worst shaving down or off the lips .

I can get a Evo conversion kit for the 14mm so i can use wider buggy tires and Typos, Chainlink tires . But if there is a hex that would work i don't need to .
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:51 PM
  #15533  
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I was searching around and found out these will work there for the B4.1 rear end. Thinking i just need to take the lip off them or completely ?




Pro-Line Aluminum 12mm Rear Clamping Hex Wheel Adapter Set (Blue) (2)

[PRO6077-00]
Attached Thumbnails Durango DEX210 Thread-pro6077-00.jpg  
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:10 PM
  #15534  
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Yes those will work
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:12 PM
  #15535  
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The Avid, JC, and Pro Line 12mm hexes all work pretty well.

Has anyone bent their alum chassis ? I've bent the V1 and the V2, minor but when disassembled you can see a little bit of a tweak. I'll post some pics as soon as I can disassemble it.

I also picked up the Exotek graphite chassis as a replacement since graphite doesn't bend and because I'd like to see how the car handles with the graphite. Perhaps a little more traction with the flex differences vs alum. Has anyone else tried it?

Thanks ahead of time!
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:12 PM
  #15536  
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown
Yes those will work

Cool thanks. Now would i need to dremel off the lip on them or anything ?
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:16 PM
  #15537  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
The Avid, JC, and Pro Line 12mm hexes all work pretty well.

Has anyone bent their alum chassis ? I've bent the V1 and the V2, minor but when disassembled you can see a little bit of a tweak. I'll post some pics as soon as I can disassemble it.

I also picked up the Exotek graphite chassis as a replacement since graphite doesn't bend and because I'd like to see how the car handles with the graphite. Perhaps a little more traction with the flex differences vs alum. Has anyone else tried it?

Thanks ahead of time!
Carbon chassis don't bend but they will tweek, I've had a few touring car chassis do it. Not quite as noticeable as an aluminum one though.
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:21 PM
  #15538  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Cool thanks. Now would i need to dremel off the lip on them or anything ?
You shouldn't have to. I ran yokomo hexes on mine and they had that lip , worked fine for me. You will have to reshim your axels to have correct play.
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Old 12-13-2014, 08:21 PM
  #15539  
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Does that mean you have bent alum and tweaked graphite both?
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Old 12-13-2014, 08:24 PM
  #15540  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Does that mean you have bent alum and tweaked graphite both?
It does lol. I'm kind of hard on stuff
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