80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-09-2014, 12:31 PM
No rear motor ran on this buggy. The Clay was high grip/tacky most guys ran mid motor.
I learned that Slick tires are inconstant when the clay is dry .
Last edited by tc5 man; 11-09-2014 at 12:42 PM.
11-09-2014, 04:37 PM
yes, I've learned this about slicks as well. They can be amazing and also terrible. Not often in between. Ghost pins are sometimes better if you are using a real slick like the panther. Hard to say not knowing the track but perhaps electrons or dirt webs are the ticket for you. The high grip indoor clay seems fairly similar around all the west coast tracks I've been too. We have two here that are very similar to this it seems and i've found dirt webs, typos and barcodes to all be good choices on this type of track. Barcodes more if it's somewhat drier and perhaps dusty on top.
11-09-2014, 05:10 PM
yes, I've learned this about slicks as well. They can be amazing and also terrible. Not often in between. Ghost pins are sometimes better if you are using a real slick like the panther. Hard to say not knowing the track but perhaps electrons or dirt webs are the ticket for you. The high grip indoor clay seems fairly similar around all the west coast tracks I've been too. We have two here that are very similar to this it seems and i've found dirt webs, typos and barcodes to all be good choices on this type of track. Barcodes more if it's somewhat drier and perhaps dusty on top.
Yea they where good in some corners of the track when it was dry even with traction compound and some other corners all the sudden i spin out going out of a corner not real hard on the throttle. I need to get Shorty lipos also i seen some 4000mah that look good.
I do have some new Ion (Clay) Front and Rear tires il run in the parking lot or use traction compound to get wear although they are almost like Slicks very little tread. When the Clay was dry i dint see any dust if there was it was very little but it felt colder on the track later in the day.
One thing i did notice is i needed a little more turn in it was lacking into the tighter corners not turning sharp enough . The Exotech Front lead weight block looks good but 20 onces ?
Last edited by tc5 man; 11-09-2014 at 05:24 PM.
11-09-2014, 05:19 PM
Switched to 3 gear Mid today. I like it. Shocks mounted on rear of tower.
But with the motor running in the reverse direction, The diff nut seemed to work its way loose. Anyone had similar experience with diff ?
But with the motor running in the reverse direction, The diff nut seemed to work its way loose. Anyone had similar experience with diff ?
11-09-2014, 05:22 PM
How do you compared it to the 4 gear mid gear if you are running on clay ? Like driving wise.
11-09-2014, 05:33 PM
Not many big jumps on our track so cant speak to articulation in the air with the 3-gear...
11-09-2014, 06:26 PM
I think that makes sense, 3 gear on high bite clay, especially with slicks. Probably much easier to drive right? Less twitchy?
11-09-2014, 06:32 PM
Yea they where good in some corners of the track when it was dry even with traction compound and some other corners all the sudden i spin out going out of a corner not real hard on the throttle. I need to get Shorty lipos also i seen some 4000mah that look good.
I do have some new Ion (Clay) Front and Rear tires il run in the parking lot or use traction compound to get wear although they are almost like Slicks very little tread. When the Clay was dry i dint see any dust if there was it was very little but it felt colder on the track later in the day.
One thing i did notice is i needed a little more turn in it was lacking into the tighter corners not turning sharp enough . The Exotech Front lead weight block looks good but 20 onces ?
I do have some new Ion (Clay) Front and Rear tires il run in the parking lot or use traction compound to get wear although they are almost like Slicks very little tread. When the Clay was dry i dint see any dust if there was it was very little but it felt colder on the track later in the day.
One thing i did notice is i needed a little more turn in it was lacking into the tighter corners not turning sharp enough . The Exotech Front lead weight block looks good but 20 onces ?
I have the exotek weight and I agree it can be a bit much. I think it would be ok if I was running slicks and they were hooked up. Mostly I use 5g or 10g weights to balance the car out. Do you have scales or how do you balance front to rear?
11-09-2014, 06:36 PM
It does say on the Durango website 4 gear for very high bite( Carpet, Astrotruff ) And 3 gear mid on high traction (Clay) . I would think the 3 gear mid motor would be easier to drive on Clay .
The 4 gear on the Clay yesterday felt like more forward drive than the rear , it was somewhat hard to drive a little twichy at times harder to get lined up to the jumps . On Slicks it sounds like 3 gear Mid gear is the way to go to me.
11-09-2014, 06:42 PM
If you are running slicks it's been my experience the track needs to be WET, not just moist. As soon as it gets a little bit dry you get dust, and that's when slicks stop working. Generally the dust forms more in certain spots than others, a lot of times outside the fastest line which is often also where the groove forms. I've found that a low profile tread works better when the dust comes up after slicks stop working. It's tough to chase the track sometimes. When you go out to corner what do you notice about the changes in the track from round to round?
I have the exotek weight and I agree it can be a bit much. I think it would be ok if I was running slicks and they were hooked up. Mostly I use 5g or 10g weights to balance the car out. Do you have scales or how do you balance front to rear?
I have the exotek weight and I agree it can be a bit much. I think it would be ok if I was running slicks and they were hooked up. Mostly I use 5g or 10g weights to balance the car out. Do you have scales or how do you balance front to rear?
1st round the Slicks work great the 2nd round still worked good . 3rd round it dry out a bit in the main the Clay dryed out the most it took a while to get constant traction like almost to the end caught me off guard at times . There most of been a little dust cause i blowed my nose and you know lol.
But yea a butch of guys did tell me to go with a little warn or more small treaded tires when its dry.
I did move the rear wheel spacers toward the front later on in the day to get more Rear grip it helped better.
Sucks that the Durango weights are priced so much. I do have little lead weights though 1/2 oz i believe. I don't have a scale.
11-09-2014, 07:47 PM
I use stick on weights for real cars. 1/2oz should be 7 grams. I run 3 under my servo.
11-09-2014, 08:46 PM
yes, I've learned this about slicks as well. They can be amazing and also terrible. Not often in between. Ghost pins are sometimes better if you are using a real slick like the panther. Hard to say not knowing the track but perhaps electrons or dirt webs are the ticket for you. The high grip indoor clay seems fairly similar around all the west coast tracks I've been too. We have two here that are very similar to this it seems and i've found dirt webs, typos and barcodes to all be good choices on this type of track. Barcodes more if it's somewhat drier and perhaps dusty on top.
If the track is bumpy, you want the standard rims. If the track is smooth the EVO rims or VTR 2.4 rims work better with less sidewall flex.
11-10-2014, 07:10 AM
11-10-2014, 09:22 AM
Are these shorty lipos more than enough Mah rating with a 10.5 motor ? The Heat races i do are 5 min and if im in the B-main 8 mins , A main 10 mins . There 4000mah Shorty 7.4v packs.
Il do practicing also of course .
LND Battery 7.4V 4000mAh 2S Cell 65C Shorty HardCase LiPo Battery Pack w/ 4mm Bullet & Deans Ultra Connector
Part# LND2S4065
Il do practicing also of course .
LND Battery 7.4V 4000mAh 2S Cell 65C Shorty HardCase LiPo Battery Pack w/ 4mm Bullet & Deans Ultra Connector
Part# LND2S4065
Last edited by tc5 man; 11-10-2014 at 09:52 AM.
11-10-2014, 10:00 AM
The motor shouldn't be running in reverse rotation. It's rotational direction in relation to the wheels should be opposite though.
I know other people disagree but I only run the diff nut on the right side, regardless of motor orientation. I always adjust it on the left side only. I learned this with a direct drive on my RC10 in the late 80's. If the adjustment screw was on the right side, it would be more prone to loosen. If the adjustment screw is on the left, it isn't. I've never had a problem since. Where is yours?
I know other people disagree but I only run the diff nut on the right side, regardless of motor orientation. I always adjust it on the left side only. I learned this with a direct drive on my RC10 in the late 80's. If the adjustment screw was on the right side, it would be more prone to loosen. If the adjustment screw is on the left, it isn't. I've never had a problem since. Where is yours?