ekt

iTrader: (4)

The v2 body TD402031 and v1 cab forward body TD402012.

fq06

iTrader: (12)

My V1 JC & PL bodies that I ran on my V1 kit chassis don't contour the V2 side pod correctly, there's a hump half way in on the V2 side pod that holds the V1 bodies that I have out in that section.

Its not bad enough for me to paint up another one but when its time I will be painting one that is molded for the V2 side pod.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

I just cut down my stock battery strap to suit my shorty battery and when I go to mid mount sometimes.

snowman_evil

iTrader: (30)

Thanks Ekt always helpful

Will the J concepts finisher body fit? - JCO0228

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

What have people been using for rear weights in mid motor ? I can't seem to find a rdhp one in stock anywhere. Thanks

ekt

iTrader: (4)

As fq06 said, you can get it to fit but it isn't ideal due to the DIMEC/v2 side pods being wider and a different shape.

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

Making more progress on the chassis conversion! The 7075 aluminum came in and cut the final production version and raced it saturday. Ran flawlessly!
Fred, the chassis is plus 10mm, and the contour of the chassis is the same as the V1 with sidepods. Although it is quite a bit narrower where the battery mounts. Got the weight down to 1550g with a shorty pack and a large esc (hobbyking 120a turbo) this weight will drop, the carbon side rails on it now are 5mm thick, whitch is overkill but I have 3mm on the way for those. Also will be making a carbon motor plate when my shipment of CF shows up.
Question I have is, this chassis is cut out for the type A blocks. Im wondering if I put this into production should I cut the type A and the type B? Or make all of them type A and include a carbon filler plate for using the type B block?
Here is a snapshot of it as ran saturday night

re-do73

iTrader: (13)

Naked pic of the chassis fresh off the mill

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

I'd go Type B, simply because that's what a lot of guys converted to and the v2 car is all type B

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@Cain: rear hexes are easy. All of the pictured hexes fit right on no additional mods or spacers needed. I've shown the proline 12mm hex, the JConcepts (same as proline), avid and lastly the tresrey.

Using the AVID set is nice as you get two different widths of hex and thus allowing you to change the rear track a bit. http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

This is also the bonus with the Kyosho 12mm front axle upgrade. This allows you to adjust the front track a bit.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the info.

I got a variety of durango wheels in, but its nice to find cheap mounted sets of rears 12mm being common.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@cain: Love your avatar. Big fan of The Crow. Brandon Lee. Werd. FARGO!

and yea, no problem. I've been through a lot of wheels and hexes now. I think have 90% of the hexes out there currently. Best are the tresrey and spec type in 14mm. For 12mm the Avid set is very nice in black. If you only want a pair go with the JConcepts or ProLine.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Thanks! My favorite movie!

I actually may have a 12mm hex laying around here, have to check.

I have heard that you need to use AE wheels not Losi's, is that true?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

for 12mm wheels I have been using B4/RB6 style wheels.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

What are you doing for inline steering are you putting the 4 1mm spacers in front or leave them behind, i know durango say to move the spacers forward however most setup sheets show the 4 behind still, it kind if seems counter productive to move the axle forward a mm only to move it back with the spacer