RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

Here's some more of my transverse shorty mod I posted a few pages back. I managed to get the battery about 1/4" further back than previously, but I had to make a new top deck to get rid of the flex I induced when I cut off the support posts.

McD44

iTrader: (16)

I just got the Diggity Designs 4mm lowered rear shock tower and man is there some major droop now. I am running the gear diff which has the normal length outdrives. At full droop the top part of the dogbone pin at TDC is still within the outdrive. I had no problems with pins popping out during practice. I do however have the shocks mounted to the rear of the tower which I believe will limit the droop more than front mounted shocks due to the anti-squat angle of the arms. If you're running 3° of anti-squat and have front mounted shocks i imagine you'll have some problems.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Does either kit(rtr or kit) of the dex210 come with a +8 chassis. Neither discription says.

McD44

iTrader: (16)

I know the kit doesn't. The RTR has a DIMEC chassis but I don't think it's the +8.

There's a new version coming out within the next 6 months and I'm pretty sure it'll have the +8 chassis. That's the rumor anyway.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

ah thanks, picked up a used one under a hundy and was looking to update it but man, not sure. Even though car was cheap its alot to update these cars.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

The RTR DIMEC is +8mm. If you go to Team-Durango.com and pick the vehicle you want to look at. Up top there will be a tab to look at the "Standard Parts" and "Optional Parts". Anything in the standard parts is what is on the vehicle that you are looking at.

Well... I just looked at it again.. and I guess since they started making the version B chassis, they have discontinued the original DIMECs.. and they aren't there.

It is a +8mm DIMEC on the RTR.. not on the kit though.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Pretty sure the RTR is +8. I don't think they make the buggy DIMEC without the +8.

mechanic77

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, here you go rcjunky:

Late model w/Customworks Mountaineer body



Modified w/my own body (illegal....next year )



Both chassis's are made from G10FR4, the late model has a customworks front bumper, the rear body mount on the mod is from customworks, and I made most everything else (non-stock) from G10 and Kydex. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd be more than happy to answer

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

Can any of you guys measure the wheelbase on your +8's so I can measure mine and see where it is at. Wouldnt want to order a chassis if its alrdy got a +8.

Thanks


UPDATE: So compared it to my RB6 it is almost identical in wheelbase lenght so Im pretty sure u guys are right and it comes with the +8 older non B chassis.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

If your chassis is plastic tub, it's +8. I have never seen or heard of a regular sized Plastic chassis on this buggy. If it's made of some other material, then it could be any number of sizes.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Out of the box, my RTR had a 289mm wheelbase.

On another note, still looking for initial setup ideas from my earlier post.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, so basically the hard springs and a new chassis. Depending on the wheelbase I would of just made a custom side pod for the inside and mount the elctronics in the battery area, with custom bumpers would of done the trick as well, but less fun

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Looks pretty interesting. Wonder how it will work at Bumps, Pit Stop or Grind Lab like that. Still have the motor in the wrong direction.

Orion_2kTC

iTrader: (11)

Is there an easier way to remove/service the servo without having to remove the front top deck and front tower? The arms of the top deck obscure the servo mounting holes.

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

I use a 120mm long hex driver from Racers Edge to reach through the holes and remove the 4 screws.