kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Anybody know what size thrust balls are in the diff?

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

These.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXATSB&P=FR

and the Jconcepts ballcups made all the difference in the world for me.

P6

iTrader: (5)

I have the vega camber mount and a cf tower 13g wire no body mounts just velcro on the side pods all four wires through the tower flat against the gearbox I'm not sure the height of the body mount hole but I seem to have enough clearance for my kit or jc body without problems from what I see in the manual

Heavy B

iTrader: (18)

If interested in a very clean DEX210 go here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...go-dex210.html

ApacheRacer

iTrader: (19)

Have a dex210 for sale PM for more info and pics!!

durangoman

iTrader: (2)

I have seen some guys running the rear shocks on the backside if the shock tower. Any benefits and what parts do I need for the conversion?

j.d.roost

iTrader: (32)

You can either drill holes for the bottom of the shocks...or flip the a-arms backwards (thats what most do). I also needed a 2mm shim on the bottom of the shock to space it away from the camber link.
I only run mm4 on carpet...and can tell you it's great for that. Car gets more lift and seems less tippy.
I don't know how good it works on dirt.

2SlowTC

iTrader: (41)

Rm3 with the arms flipped works great on dirt jd. And for anyone else who wants to know. But like i said in an earlier post i found that the car ran way better setup with short wheel base

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Just added the Durango 4 x 1.3mm double tapered pistons to my buggy along with the new gold shock shafts and then I already new I wanted lighter oil from when I first tested the car. Took a few laps last night and it felt very smooth overall and took the jumps well with no problems of bottoming out. So I think my oil combo and spring combo are pretty close. Running most of Jorn's setup that I found from the Reedy Race and one other race where he had pretty much the same oil and spring combo. I'm running Dark Green Front springs and Dark Blue rear springs with 30wt front oil and 27 1/2 rear oil. Front has the 30 gram weight with 30 degree caster and longest camber link positioning. Also have the the stock 4mm back setup for the front axle. Middle hole on tower and outer on arm for the shock mounting.

Car has good off power going into the corner but once I get to middle off the corner it don't have a tight finish as it either pushes out or I could use a little overall steering throw (I already have it as far as it can without modding the steering knuckle some). Otherwise in just a few packs I ran it feels really good. Its just minor setup tweaks now. If you have any ideas on the tighter steering coming off or if guys do mod the knuckle some for more overall throw let me know. I have no problems using my Dremel.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

At least on our clay indoor tracks most guys no matter what brand car they run where all switching back to stock length chassis's from the +8 styles that a lot of companies are making. Even when I ran my Tamiya TRF201 the stock length chassis was so much better than the +8. Going really long would seem to make the car more numb feeling overall which would be ok if I was on carpet racing but not as much for dirt or clay. Stability is not a problem with my car as I run it now with the stock alum. chassis. Mine is pretty close to as short as I can make it so far. Feels pretty neutral on the track.

nismomike

iTrader: (6)

What are you running as far as droop/limiters in the front? I don't use the droop pads front or rear, but instead I ground them off the front bulkhead and use 2mm of internal limiters and 1mm in the rear. I am running nearly identical setup in my shocks otherwise. Do you use the 1.5/3.0 rear toe block? Also, how much bump-out do you have at full droop?

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Right now the droop stops are on and I have full droop at this time. I have 3 degree of rear toe with the 1.5 anti squat. I have very little bump steer in the car right now.

For just starting out with the car it feels really nice and smooth. Takes the small and large jumps equally as well. Rear I have the shocks in middle hole on arm and middle hole on tower.

In the few packs I have run I already feel the car is as good as any car I have ran at our track and that is just with a limited amount of runs. Very happy with the car so far. Zero diff issues (mine has not come loose at all). Going to add an aluminum servo horn and aluminum rack for my steering instead of the plastic one the ball studs mount to. I will do that before I run the car tonight again to see if that changes it a little.

nismomike

iTrader: (6)

I would shorten your front shock length by 2mm. Either using the droop screws or internal limiters. That's gonna give you more on power mid to exit steering.

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Thanks. I will certainly try that tonight. Not use to having an offroad buggy that has some touring car adjustments. Lots of learning to do with this car. I'm a little behind and been reading back pages to try to catch up on the info available for this car. Lots of reading left to do thats for sure.

nismomike

iTrader: (6)

I think the general consensus is: if you are running on dirt/clay, remove the droop screws and grind off the droop pads from the front bulkhead. Use internal limiters and measure overall length, match shock lengths using the shock end to fine tune length.
If you run on carpet, turf, or cork, use the droop screws.