P6

iTrader: (5)

can anyone post pics of how your doing the velcro battery straps, using the thumb screws is getting annoying when im moving the battery foams for track conditions

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Strapping the battery would be simple- cut slots into the vertical walls of the center channel, wrap velcro strap through, done. The issue I can see is retaining the foams where you want them, unless you don't use foams.

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

O.K. guys here’s the deal, I got the first batch back from Hard Coat. All are spoken for, but in the process of running a second batch of 12. Six will be +8 and the other six will be +10. The price will be $95 shipped for the +8 and $100 shipped for the +10. Both will include black Delrin spacers. (Shipping price for the lower 48 states with confirmation and prices are subject to change depending on outside price increases). Chassis should be finished this weekend and at the Anodizer early next week. It shouldn’t be more than two weeks. I will ask for a $50 deposit if you want a chassis saved and the rest before shipping. If these go well then I will make a third batch. Chassis are made from .090” 7075-T6 aluminum. CNC milled and Hard Coated Black. This chassis weighs in right around 95 grams. I have included some reference weights down below to give you an idea. This was a quick calculation and with a few different scenarios. I also included some pics of the jewelry…………..Please pm me for any other information. Thanks, BMAN!


DEX210 Chassis Wts.

-Stock DEX210 6061 Aluminum 105g
-TD Dimec 20 (Full Chassis) 119g
-My +8 7075-T6 95g
-8 Racing Carbon 55g
-Stock TD Side Pods 71g

Wt. Assembled

-TD Stock Alum/Pods 176g
-My +8 Alum/Pods 166g
-8 carbon/pods w/my skid plates F/SR 152g
-TD Dimec 20 w/my Skids F/LR 148g
-8 Racing/Pods 126g
-TD Dimec only 119g

My S.S. Skid Plates

-Large Rear 15g
-Front 14g
-Small Rear 12g

Catch22racing

iTrader: (4)

Can anyone who has vector art for TD send the files via email to me please!

glenng

iTrader: (1)

just installed new rdrp c hubs. stock c hub is 3.3g, these are 6g each. i embraced that extra 5.4g up front too for steering's sake. steering knuckle has a lil bit too much up and down slack, i think im gonna have to find some really thin shims to snug them up. i went with camber hole2, as i think that is equivalent to where it was on the plastic hub. ifyou use rdrp's alloy zero insert for 25 degree caster, it might be a good idea to slighty buff/light sand them down a bit as i had to gently bang in one insert with a hammer when it got stuck 80% of the way through.

in the future, if i decide to use hole 4, the lower hole, how will that affect handling? and if i do that, shall i take out the 1mm spacer under ballstud on shock tower? right now, im just hoping the 1mm loss of track width on each side doesnt hurt the setup i had. it was super dialed. overall, the c-hubs are totally rad, as they will be the last set needed.

P6

iTrader: (5)

i didnt like the extra weight but i was thinking of these for adjustments ,, try positioning them different and set your camber to 0 degrees it makes a huge difference with the way the buggy will turn and during braking and the traction the front will have through the corners , i have the diggity front tower so six holes per side my camber gain at full shock compression is at 4 degrees and .5-1 degree at race ride height, the more the buggy rolls into turns the more your outer front wheel needs some camber gain to keep full contact with the ground and changing the height of the link will allow this thats why they have 4 holes TD towers use spacers for height and some have vertical mounts so you wont need spacers
http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/BasicSuspensionTuning/

WolfAusti

iTrader: (38)

I can post pics of mine later today. I'm currently using a losi 22 strap. Are you running the battery forward or back?

P6

iTrader: (5)

i would say forward the back of my battery is at the receiver wire route in the kit chassis, i have esc in the back of the tray im thinking my velcro would have to be in between the battery thumb screw mounts to hold it down good ,, any pics help ... and jonny5 i get some pretty good slams so i was just worried about cutting the side pods up and the battery weight breaking it, probably time for dimec anyways
bman would their be a way to mill out the battery tray completely it would lower cog be lighter then run with a chassis protector without sacrificing strength

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Got some goodies in today! +8 wing brackets..... I also finished putting my +8 Hard coat all together


Update on the second run: Posted a pic of the first +10 off the mill....

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Took the +8 aluminum out for a test drive today. Also tried RM4. Car really seemed to be more stable over the Dimec 20 chassis. Maybe stiffening it up helped take the twitchiness out of it. Added another 20* of boost because I was able to push it harder....

kerby

iTrader: (25)

Who makes a quality gearbox fix?

WolfAusti

iTrader: (38)

Finally got to try out my dex210 this weekend! I was overall impressed with how easily I was able to find a setup that suits my driving style and track. I ended up getting 4th, which I thought was a solid start with this new buggy. The guys ahead of me definitely had way more skill than I did.

Couple of concerns:
1. On my second lap of my first heat I broke a rear hub right where the ball stud threads in. I was pretty surprised this beefy part broke. I'm hoping this was just a fluke? I decided to switch to the third hole out with hopes that more material around the ballstud will make it more durable.

2. My buddy who runs a dex210 broke his transmission case at the camber link mount twice this weekend running in stock. Is this a pretty common issue? Any known fixes? Definitely a very annoying thing to deal with considering the time it takes to fix it.

3. The buggy is mediocre at best on initial turn in. It pushes pretty hard until I hit the brake and really force it to rotate. Running on a wet clay track with green bar codes with traction compound all around and with closed cell inserts in the rear, open in front. Tires are what the fast guys are running. I'm running brown associated fronts (1.85) and dark blue durango springs in the rear. 6 hole pistons with 32.5 wt up front, 30 in the rear. The suspension feels nice and complies very nicely. I feel like I have plenty of side bite as well. I think I will switch my battery to the forward location. Will this help with my pushing problem? Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.

Couple shots of the buggy right after I completed the build.

SOuthernFRIED

iTrader: (21)

Does everyone use the stock Durango 3x8x3.5 thrust bearing? Or is there a better alternative?

I'm going to be rebuilding the ball diff in my recently purchased dex210 soon, and I'd like to make it the best I possibly can.

ekt

iTrader: (4)

1. Using a longer ballstud(TD330347) with a nut on the other side helps to reduce breakage.

2. Some people have had issues with the transmission case breaking, unfortunately the only quick fix is aftermarket parts. http://durangofansite.com/DEX210afte...t.html#rcamber

3. I'll leave setup advice to someone else. But it sounds like it could be something fixed with more weight up front.

A lot of people earlier in the thread recommended B-Fast bearing for the diff. http://bfastrc.com/durango.html

ae4ever

Bfast pro kit is the way to go!