KH

iTrader: (2)

I've only been working with my 210 for a couple months but I think I have mine running pretty well. Everything I learned was that the more weight I got out of the entire car the better it works and seemed to add steering also. My first instinct was to start buying the weights and adding weight to the front. But i didnt. When I first went to a shorty I hated it. Now I run a shorty and run the car as light as I can. I feel the car works very well now...after a lot of testing and adjustments. I mostly run on indoor clay and some indoor dirt/clay mix.

KH

iTrader: (2)

Ps don't forget about those handy droop screws located on the a-arms

Orion_2kTC

iTrader: (11)

Can you elaborate on this? What would indoor VS outdoor have to do with stiffness requirements?

murky123

indoor we drive carpet. with loads of grip. so a stiffer chassis will react more directly and faster.
outdoor we drive on dirt. with much less grip and more bumpy, so composite chassis with give the buggy more flex and a bit easier to drive under those outdoor conditions

an extra 8 mm wil help the buggy on larger tracks and bigger turns, calm the buggy down a bit

Orion_2kTC

iTrader: (11)

Well, I had a feeling it was related to Dirt and Carpet, but don't forget, not all indoor tracks are carpet/astroturf. One of the tracks near me is dirt/clay and indoors.

murky123

I can not think of one indoor clay/dirt track in my country or surrounding countries in europe

In my country there are just 2 good outdoor clay tracks

Orion_2kTC

iTrader: (11)

Fair enough.

The Czechexican

iTrader: (1)

What kind of set up are you guys running and tires. I run on the carpet here in the states on Onzite I think it is. Im having a hard time calming the rear end down real loose. Im running mid mm4 with a gear diff 3,000 mini pins front and rear. And the rear end rolls like crazy. I have been playing with roll center and I have been stiffing the shock little by little. Im running stock springs front and rear 45wt up front and 40 in the rear stock pistons 6 1.2 6 1.2.
Thanks,
John

umpy907

iTrader: (3)

Just trying to figure out what aluminum upgrades are a must have and what is just for show? Is there anything breaking that needs to be upgraded to aluminum?

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Only upgrades needed are for the steering link and maybe the tow block.
http://www.exotekracing.com/durango/...eatured&page=2

Fellas Exotek has just released alum shock caps.
http://www.exotekracing.com/desc-dex-bb-shock-caps-4/

More good things to come from Exotek

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I would say the only necessity is the steering rack. My Son just built a 210 from my parts lot, its the only thing he upgraded, and if he can't break a car, it unbreakable..lol

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

The front toe block in the rear is prone to breakage.

Tunatsol

iTrader: (2)

Im running indoor carpet. mm4, gear diff with AE black carbide grease, 6/1.2 60wt AE front 6/1.2 50wt rear, stock springs, full long wheel base, 3/3 tow block, Schumacher low profile cut staggered fronts and Schumacher mini pin rears AKA red inserts front and rear, shocks laid down front and rear, ride height as low as it can go, shorty all the way back, links as long as they get. Youtube.com you can find a lot of racing at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3VIXZ09Wz4 2wd mod buggy. Small track that can be vary technical. That's all i can think of right now PM for more info Im glade to help. And if this does not help Im sorry.

SC10CHAMP

iTrader: (7)

Hi guys. Ive just bought my a DEX210, and so far the build has been great. Until i realised that the left rear driveshaft is catching on the T-nut of the diff. As a result the arm hesitates when moved up and down. Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers

M3Man03

iTrader: (9)

What length is your driveshafts? Should be printed on them.