Garnold

iTrader: (51)

Guys, other then here and dirt runners do you know of any places that allow up practice time? I was told that Barnstorm is race only. Where else do you guys go to mix it up some?

AmiSMB

Check the spacer on the layshaft. File it down if there is any wear on the inside of the tube and then put some 1/8 clutch shims either side making sure that there is still some play when the gearbox is put together. You can also put some shims before the first slipper pad goes on to get some more tension on the slipper. I would also advise using AE pads cutting them down to make sure they sit flat in the spur gear and then you should not have any more problems. HTH.

mulepic

iTrader: (21)

I decided to pick up a buggy to race an additional class to 2wd SC. I had a chance to run a couple laps last night on the track. Unfortunately it didn't last long b/c the rear hub broke right at the ball stud. Are there HD-rear hubs to purchase or do I simply get the stock ones again?

Simple paint job:

dexon555

TD makes aluminum rear hubs.

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330377

Shimmy

iTrader: (19)

Just changed over to 4 gear rear motor.
Only just messing about on the lounge room floor (carpet) at first I didnt really notice any difference but then I put on some old well worn calibers and it stuck like glue, before they were like a sprint car.

Hopefully this will help a little on the track and not take away too much steering.

mulepic

iTrader: (21)

A little pricey for my beginning stages. I'm not going to have to replace all the plastic w/ aluminum to get durability am I?

dexon555

No, not "all" but, with any kit they try to meet a price point fot the kit and have to make compromises. As you race you will decide which parts are worth the upgrade. I was just trying to answer your question about a durable option.

mulepic

iTrader: (21)

And you did, thanks I appreciate it. Fortunately I have a milling machine, I might try to work w/ the stock plastic ones and beef them up to withstand my driving skill (or lack thereof).

mister_g

iTrader: (73)

Hi All,

A quick question for any of you running a carbon chassis.

How are they holding up?
Any areas of concern or any failures?

Cheers

GuiltyByAssoc

iTrader: (6)

Got the same question. It weights 1 Oz. anybody know how much the stock alum. ones weight?

Cspurlock

iTrader: (31)

Another less expensive option you can try is to take the long ball stud(not sure the part#) and run it through the hub and then put a low profile nut on the back. A couple of us have done that and not had any issues since.

Cspurlock

iTrader: (31)

I had a thought:
A lot of us share our tips and tricks on this thread when someone asks a question, but what if we all posted our little mods we have done that have been succesful so that we can all benefit from them? I know that I learn little things all the time reading this thread, it would be nice to collaborate all of our tips. I will go first:

I put little black Orings in between the screw head and the gear cover. It gives a cushion so that when you tighten down the screw you don't break the gear cover. I haven't broken one since I started doing that.

I run long ball studs through the rear hub and put a low profile nut on the back to stop the ball stud from ripping through the rear hub.


hope to hear some tips from others!

mister_g

iTrader: (73)

Stock chassis weighs 106 grams and the carbon versions I have seen are 45 grams.

heygobenny

iTrader: (1)

What carbon chassis conversions are there?

Konich

iTrader: (9)

Currently 8 Racing makes a standard CF chassis and a +8 as well for the 210