80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
06-02-2012, 04:00 AM
#6331
my buddy painted me the finnisher body for my dex210
06-02-2012, 05:30 AM
#6332
I have a B-Fast Diff upgrade that I would put in any car I buy so I dont count that. Only aftermarket part I have is the CF Ackermann plate. I wouldnt even have had that if I hadn't ruined the stock unit by my own stupidity. OC/RC, and West Coast occasionally. The car is just fine by it's self, even the Diff is fine if built and set correctly. I have plenty good to say about the RB5. The shocks are the best hands down, The parts fit and wear are near perfect. What I dont like? $18.00 per pair springs, Having to buy 2 sets of arms the get one set. And the fact that Jeff (Speedtech) is basically the only source for parts. Tresrey Items are nice, but for me uneccesary as I dont run them. No breakage issues as of yet and I have run the car ALOT since I have had it, had some major crashes, had 8th scale cars land directly on my shock towers which according to earlier threads should have snapped them both like twigs, and nothing for me, except the occasional ball stud popping off (again after a pretty serious crash), but that happens to every car. I built my car according to all of the tips and tricks on the Team Durango site and all is well. As far as parts being expensive. The WC edition Shocks towers for an RB5 each are $10.00. for $6.99 you get both with a Durango. Many many things are cheaper on this car then any other car out including AE and of quality close to if not as good as Kyosho at a much better price point. It is not expensive compared at all.
After all of your diff upgrades, and tresrey items your in a deeper hole. Durango is not that far from $300, their parts aren't that cheap either. What tracks are you at in LB?
06-02-2012, 05:49 AM
#6333
I have a B-Fast Diff upgrade that I would put in any car I buy so I dont count that. Only aftermarket part I have is the CF Ackermann plate. I wouldnt even have had that if I hadn't ruined the stock unit by my own stupidity. OC/RC, and West Coast occasionally. The car is just fine by it's self, even the Diff is fine if built and set correctly. I have plenty good to say about the RB5. The shocks are the best hands down, The parts fit and wear are near perfect. What I dont like? $18.00 per pair springs, Having to buy 2 sets of arms the get one set. And the fact that Jeff (Speedtech) is basically the only source for parts. Tresrey Items are nice, but for me uneccesary as I dont run them. No breakage issues as of yet and I have run the car ALOT since I have had it, had some major crashes, had 8th scale cars land directly on my shock towers which according to earlier threads should have snapped them both like twigs, and nothing for me, except the occasional ball stud popping off (again after a pretty serious crash), but that happens to every car. I built my car according to all of the tips and tricks on the Team Durango site and all is well. As far as parts being expensive. The WC edition Shocks towers for an RB5 each are $10.00. for $6.99 you get both with a Durango. Many many things are cheaper on this car then any other car out including AE and of quality close to if not as good as Kyosho at a much better price point. It is not expensive compared at all.
The car is solid. It's a race car....things break. The RB5 is a great car! I enjoyed it but hated having to stock parts for it. Plus, like John said, the parts are very expensive. I know expense is relative. But part per part the 210 is cheaper. I run my 210 fully loaded up with TeamSR stuff. Not because I have to but because I choose to. The only parts I recommend are the RF toe block and the steering link. Some have broken, others have not.
06-02-2012, 05:52 AM
#6334
I have a B-Fast Diff upgrade that I would put in any car I buy so I dont count that. Only aftermarket part I have is the CF Ackermann plate. I wouldnt even have had that if I hadn't ruined the stock unit by my own stupidity. OC/RC, and West Coast occasionally. The car is just fine by it's self, even the Diff is fine if built and set correctly. I have plenty good to say about the RB5. The shocks are the best hands down, The parts fit and wear are near perfect. What I dont like? $18.00 per pair springs, Having to buy 2 sets of arms the get one set. And the fact that Jeff (Speedtech) is basically the only source for parts. Tresrey Items are nice, but for me uneccesary as I dont run them. No breakage issues as of yet and I have run the car ALOT since I have had it, had some major crashes, had 8th scale cars land directly on my shock towers which according to earlier threads should have snapped them both like twigs, and nothing for me, except the occasional ball stud popping off (again after a pretty serious crash), but that happens to every car. I built my car according to all of the tips and tricks on the Team Durango site and all is well. As far as parts being expensive. The WC edition Shocks towers for an RB5 each are $10.00. for $6.99 you get both with a Durango. Many many things are cheaper on this car then any other car out including AE and of quality close to if not as good as Kyosho at a much better price point. It is not expensive compared at all.
+1 I have to agree. TD spare parts are actually very competitively priced compared to others. Their kit price is a little higher, but not that much. When I owned a Kyosho SC, almost everything they sell is priced higher and a lot harder to get. But their shocks ARE the best out there.
06-02-2012, 07:43 AM
#6335
How much is a set of Kyosho big bores with springs? I came from an RB5 and the mains reason i switched was because of those 20.00 rear axles that are super brittle and because i didnt want to spend 220.00 to upgrade my shocks. The RB drives great but Geeesh they are expensive! its a know fact that Kyosho is expensive, have your priced out an e buggy lately? Only upgrade you need for the 210 is a rear shock tower and..........
06-02-2012, 02:08 PM
#6337
Nice, dont like the way that top piece mounts, kinda a pain to get at the sway bar set screws. I just removed the screws that come up frome the bottom, and used set screws as locating pins, should be good, plus now I can remove just that top brace to access the sway bar.
built up a 1.3mm bar for it today,
May try your idea too.
built up a 1.3mm bar for it today,
May try your idea too.
06-02-2012, 03:46 PM
#6341
Anyone know if the STRC 14mm clamping wheel hexes made for the Traxxas Stampede fit this car?
06-02-2012, 04:45 PM
#6342
Not that it matters..... But ithink imo. The rb5 is an overpriced b4. Whatever...... I decided to buy a 210 after trying all the buggys that r out.... N so far i havent had an issue... If u build it right,drive it right, and maintain it right just like any Rc i dont c where the problems come from
but thats my 2 cents...... No disrespect to anyone
but thats my 2 cents...... No disrespect to anyone
06-02-2012, 05:18 PM
#6343
I tested both ways. Seemed more solid this way. No awkward forces on the ball cups. Perfectly parallel to chassis. I could mount it on top with the schumacher cougar front bendy bits so its parallel to chassis but like this way better. Pushing the gearbox in forward is super rigid both ways. Pulling it backward is where the brace helped and this arrangement works. Plus those titaniums are way stronger than the plastic brace.
06-02-2012, 06:45 PM
#6345
I tested both ways. Seemed more solid this way. No awkward forces on the ball cups. Perfectly parallel to chassis. I could mount it on top with the schumacher cougar front bendy bits so its parallel to chassis but like this way better. Pushing the gearbox in forward is super rigid both ways. Pulling it backward is where the brace helped and this arrangement works. Plus those titaniums are way stronger than the plastic brace.
Just saying, that from an engineering point of view, something that is triangulated will be more ridged than something that is boxed. The Ti may be strong, but the assembly is only as strong as the weakest part, in this case, the ball cups. The plastic OEM part, with much more surface area under a clamping load from the multiple fasteners, will be stronger in compression and tension, and much stronger in torsional loading. The ball cup link design will have no torsional strength at all due to the balls. That being said, the increased flex (torsional) should be a good thing on low traction surfaces.