jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

6mm of washers either plastic, or aluminum under the ball stud on the sterring link where the wheel resides causes the tires to remain straight when compress, when you have bump steer the tires tend to lean into the front bulkhead causing alot of friction and loss of traction. On the B4.1 it took 1 2mm FT washer to get rid of, as well as allother AE vehicles. On the Durago you need to put 6mm of washers under the ball stud to completely get rid of bump steer. Bump steer bad. I have never been in a situation where bump steer has helped, eliminating it all together is best. If you need more explanation PM me and i'll show you pics of my setup.

ajj

iTrader: (18)

Yeah I know what bump steer is, just didn't realise it was so easy to cure. I wonder why they don't just build the extra 6mm into the original design. Good tip, cheers!

DBL15

iTrader: (8)

just about to put this car together can you put a picture up on what your talking about please vor PM if you want but others more then likely would happy to see it

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

Credit for bumpsteer mod goes to Cpt. America, post #3502. It works!

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

KYOORG03X

we've been doing this mod to all of out cars that they fit in for a long time. less leakage and smooth as butter. Makes AE V2 shocks almost bareable.

JS

iTrader: (70)

Great - thanks.
I will try those out.
I normally soak the o-rings with green slime in a small plastic bag for a few minutes.
Are you using green slime as well?

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Lets not get carried away here..Lets just say they finally hold their oil for a whole race day..

aloksatoor

iTrader: (43)

I use northies (white orings shipped from UK) for mine pretty smooth action but let a bit of dirt in... Oil doesnt leak much though...

goBezerk

iTrader: (10)

Well you "could" build it in, but then you wouldn't have all the adjustability that the 210 offers. As you change the caster inserts in the C hubs, the bumpsteer then needs to be changed as well. Why, because the end of the steering arm gets lower with more recline and higher with less. You want the tie-rod for the steering to be as close to parallel to the arm as possible, hard to do because the arm has a big bend in it! Imagine running the 35deg caster position, would need even more spacers

If you're happy with the 30deg (I think it's spot on) you can do as other have done and move the rack to the underside of the rocker arms, this reduces the amount of spacers on the outer end...

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Note that I used the term V2 and bareable in the same sentence

Shocks feel pretty good at the moment, no leaks at all, before they would leak just sitting on the table.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Didnt think about that one, that's another good solution to the problem.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Does anybody know if the Delrin suspension bushing option on the RB5 work on the 210? If so that would be a really good upgrade as well, metal to metal doesnt quite tickle my fancy when it comes to suspension parts.

Ray Kindstrom

iTrader: (153)

Not sure about the K ones but I know the tamiya ones fit like a glove. Before guys were upgrading to the alum block I was handing them out like candy on Halloween! Plus they have a nice coating on them that makes them "oh so smooth"


http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=618&id=1786

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

I am using the delrin pieces from Ghea.

http://www.ghea.se/produkt.php?sd_esp_1_pid=32

Dog Runner

iTrader: (23)

I'm wondering about shock oils and am currently using the 4-hole pistons (I think that's 1.3 and 1.2) with losi oils anywhere in the range of 25 to 37.5. It's a high-speed, medium-traction indoor clay track that's kinda bumpy with a few big jumps. Currently running 30wt oil front and back.

Any thoughts on what others are currently using for oils? I'm running RM with a full stick battery pack.